another M37!

[36x24]

with much help from this board have been working on 52 M37 "Sarge"(del. Marine Corps '52). missing a ton of stuff but lots of fun and work is progressing nicely. went to my local MV junkyard last week with a shopping list and saw 98% complete 51M37 (del. Ord. Corps. '51). missing pintle and rear bumperettes but still 24v and only minor surface rust!!!!!did a little swapping of cash and treasure and viola; two M37s in my shop. "Henry" gets delivered tomorrow. gentleman I got it from says there are two problems. would appreciate your input on them.
1) engine starts right up and idles but with a bad miss. he says its the #5 cylinder and its probably a stuck exhaust valve. pull the head , PB blast it, re-install head(new head gasket?) and see what you get.
2) for some reason the guy he got it from pulled the rear axles out because something was "stuck" and it wouldn't roll. they are in the bed along with the hdwe.
Pls. understand; I am quite happy with my purchase and am not trying to catch anyone out. I have Sarge who runs and drives just fine(except for no brakes but I'm working on that). He's just really rusty and between the two M37s I will have a super truck. I just need your expertise as to the two problems: maybe I make Henry the recipient of all my attention if the two problems are easier to deal with than the rust. Thanks for any and all input.

[WarrenD]

Engine, hard to say for sure. Do a compression test. If that's ok, could be electrical.
Rear axle, does the rear driveshaft turn? If not, disconnect at the rear axle u-joint and see if it will turn to the t-case. If so, sounds like the pinion gear is shot. If not, could be something in the T-case. Check to be sure the e brake is releasing...

[m37jarhead]

Warren D is correct. Due a compression test if you suspect a stuck valve. Had the same problem on a previous M37. Removed the head, found two valves stuck open. Used carb cleaner down the valve stem and rotated the engine by hand a little at a time. LIGHTLY tapped the top of the valve with a composit hammer after each partial rotation of the engine. Valves worked their way down. Also rotated the valve itself when valve was in the open position. Originally would not turn or spin. More carb cleaner or PB blaster. Finally got the valves to rotate and move freely down when the engine was turned by hand. Slow going and be patient. Use a leather glove to rotate the valve. Tough on the hands. Keep repeating the above until valve(s) are pulled shut by the valve springs. Stuck valves on a flat head that's been sitting is common. While you're in there, check for carbon build up on the valves and valve seats and give them a lick too. Cheap fix here, not rocket science, but works. Compression was +105 when finished.

[cuz]

If the heads off then it's a very good time to just remove each valve and clean them up good and run a guide scraper through each guide. Might even consider a wee bit of seat cleanup and hand lapping. Cheap insurance for keeping you from having to go through the routine just a short while later again.

[m37jarhead]

Cuz is correct. Taking the valves out and cleaning 'em up is the best way. Only a little extra labor. Make sure you put the
valves back in the same hole that they came from. Might also be a good time to replace the valve springs, and any
valves that have pitted/corroded valve stems, seats or other anomalies, they're only a few bucks.

[SOTVEN]

HELLO FRIEND! AS FAR AS I CAN UNDERSTAND YOU HAVE A 52 "SARGE" WHICH IS INCOMPLETE IN VARIOUS WAYS, 12 VOLT, PLENTY OF RUST BUT RUNS WELL. ON THE OTHER HAND, YOU JUST BOUGHT A 51 "HENRY" 24 VOLT, WHICH HAS NO RUST, ALMOST COMPLETE, BUT THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH ITS REAR DIFF, AND A MISS IN THE ENGINE. AND YOUR QUESTION IS WHICH OF THE TWO GETS YOUR ATTENTION AND WHICH BECOMES YOUR PARTS TRUCK. IF I UNDERSTOOD WELL, THEN IN MY PERSONAL OPINION, I WOULD KEEP THE SOLID, MORE COMPLETE "HENRY". JUST SWAP OUT THE REAR AXLE ALTOGETHER BETWEEN THE TWO VEHICLES. AS FOR THE MISS FIRE, PRIOR TO OPENING UP THE ENGINE AND ALL THE TROUBLE THIS INVOLVES, JUST TRY ANOTHER SPARK PLUG, AND WIRE TO ITS FAULTY CYLINDER. PERHAPS IT IS THAT EASY. IF NOT, THEN TAKE IT FROM THERE AND AS MENTIONED ABOVE CHECK FOR COMPRESSION AND EVERYTHING ELSE. MY OPINION IS BASED MOSTLY ON THE FACT THAT AT I SUCK AT WELDING, SO I HATE RUST BECAUSE I CAN NOT DEAL WITH IT. SPINNING A WRENCH HOWEVER, I AM PREETY DECENT AT THAT, SO I PREFER UNBOLTING THINGS THAN WELDING. GOOD LUCK