Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Just got a set of new draft pads for my brake and clutch pedals. Being that there weren't any remains to begin with, I would like to ask someone to post a pic of either pedal with the pads installed. I need to know which side is up and how they fit in before I try to stretch them over the pedals. That looks like a nasty bit of frustration that I'd only like to go through once!
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
This might help you Warren, taken from the April 1972 copy of TM 9-2320-212-34P, page 155:


Carter
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
That's a start, thanks Carter! Now I need to know what part goes above the floor and what goes below.
I have to TM's on CD but have been finding the page numbers in the index don't get you to the right place. In fact , they often don't come close.....
I have to TM's on CD but have been finding the page numbers in the index don't get you to the right place. In fact , they often don't come close.....

Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
The flat part of the draft pad goes against the underside of the floor pan when the pedals are at rest.
Carter
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
The pad is completely below the floor when installed.WarrenD wrote:That's a start, thanks Carter! Now I need to know what part goes above the floor and what goes below.
I have to TM's on CD but have been finding the page numbers in the index don't get you to the right place. In fact , they often don't come close.....
I'm anxious to hear of your experience and the outcome when you attempt to install these on the pedals; please let us know how it turns out.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Me too! I've read so many horror stories here about those doggone pads and I'm close to installing my set so I'm going to school here before I try my own.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Subscribing to this, I'm not to this stage of assembly yet but I will need to know how it's done.
1952 M37 W/W Rebuild @ 59% complete
Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
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Engine rebuild @ 95% complete
1985 M1009, 1990 M101A2, 2008 M116A3 Pioneer tool trailer
MVPA # 24265
NRA Life Member
NRA Cert. Personal Protection Pistol Instructor
NRA Cert. RSO
Class III RSO/KCR
Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
If you have a copy of the June 2011 issue of Power Wagon Advertiser, see Charles Talbert's photo on page 13. It's a good photo of the installed brake draft pad from the engine compartment side.
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Well, unless changes have been made in the material that the new pads are made from; I think all of us need to know how it's done. Several installation tricks that worked well with the old pads do not work at all with the new ones. We have installed many NOS pads over the years without a problem; however the new reproduction pads are made from a different type of material, and that's another story when it comes to a successful installation. I wish I could post up a "how to method"; but simply do not have one to offer at this time. We bought a number of the new pads when they first came available, sent them back to the seller after we saw what they were. If there have been changes since that time, I'm unaware. It was said that new ones were made from a really stretchy material and would be easier than ever to install; that was certainly not the case with the new ones we had. In fact, I found the material not to be stretchy at all. Good quality draft pads are something we all need, however new ones are no good if they can't be installed without damage.T. Highway wrote:Subscribing to this, I'm not to this stage of assembly yet but I will need to know how it's done.
That was my reason for asking the gentleman to post about how it went and what his outcome was when he tried to install; my hope is someone can come upon a method that will lead to a successful installation. I've spoken with many different people who have called us for tips on trying to make it happen; but to this point have not talked to anyone who has been successful.
Last edited by MSeriesRebuild on Fri Dec 02, 2011 7:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
I have the new pads and was under the impression that they were going to be easier to install than the old NOS ones. According to what I am reading, that might not be the case but it's not enough to stop me from trying. I thank everyone for their comments and advice and will report back on my experiences be they good, bad or just plain ugly! 

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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Has anyone tried boiling the pads before installing them? That's a popular method for installing one piece VW swing axle boots.
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
I did that all the time with the NOS pads and had a very good record of success. Tried it with the reproduction pads, and it had no affect what so ever on the material, so yes we've tried it and no it doesn't work.wyowillys46 wrote:Has anyone tried boiling the pads before installing them? That's a popular method for installing one piece VW swing axle boots.
Charles Talbert
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
I had some NOS ones and some repros. I tried boiling, frying and sauteeing them in butter, nothing worked and they all tasted terrible.
In all seriousness though, I did try all of the reccomended tricks and tore every one I had. I ended up cutting them and using super glue to reassemble them around the peddle. I know Charles frowned on this method, but at that point I really had no other choice. They are doing fine after 6 months. That said, if someone was to come out with ones that could actually be streteched over the peddle, I would be the first to swap out my glued on ones.
Tim
In all seriousness though, I did try all of the reccomended tricks and tore every one I had. I ended up cutting them and using super glue to reassemble them around the peddle. I know Charles frowned on this method, but at that point I really had no other choice. They are doing fine after 6 months. That said, if someone was to come out with ones that could actually be streteched over the peddle, I would be the first to swap out my glued on ones.
Tim
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
If an individual wants to cut and glue, that is their choice. We are in a little different situation though. Consider what we have to pay for a repro pad; then we destroy it by cutting and hobble it back together, hoping it may hold up, (who knows). When the customer gets his rebuilt truck and realizes what he paid for pads that were ruined by us from cutting; that does not look one bit good on our part as professional builders, thus I will not do that.powerwagontim wrote:I had some NOS ones and some repros. I tried boiling, frying and sauteeing them in butter, nothing worked and they all tasted terrible.
In all seriousness though, I did try all of the reccomended tricks and tore every one I had. I ended up cutting them and using super glue to reassemble them around the peddle. I know Charles frowned on this method, but at that point I really had no other choice. They are doing fine after 6 months. That said, if someone was to come out with ones that could actually be streteched over the peddle, I would be the first to swap out my glued on ones.
Tim
I had one of the sellers to actually recommend cutting them; this is off the charts outrageous in my opinion. Why don't you just say my product is no good and can't be installed unless you destroy it to do so. If I were the seller, I would toss the whole lot in the trash and start over unless I could find a way to successfully install that I knew worked and could pass along to buyers. Yes it would break my heart to toss them, cause I know custom made runs of anything do not come cheap, but I'm not going to sell something representing it as something I know it isn't. For me there is 2 reasons for that; I want to stay in business, thus I think it is in my favor not to destroy the Co name offering stuff that doesn't work as described if I know it. The second reason, I'm a Christian, I try to run my business in accordance with Christian guidelines of my belief. I would certainly refuse to let a bad run of some inferior components change that. Like many others here have said; that's just my 2 cents worth.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Re: Draft Pads Brake and Clutch
Charles at MSeriesrebuild: You are to be praised and complimented for your attitude on quality work in your shop.
It's apparent that you take pride in your work and value your reputation as a repair shop owner with a high degree
of integrity. Keeps the customers coming back. There's no better advertising than good referrals from satisfied
customers. Stay the course, maintain your high standards. You will continue to be a valued vendor.
Merry Christmas to all.
JB
Gilbert, AZ.
It's apparent that you take pride in your work and value your reputation as a repair shop owner with a high degree
of integrity. Keeps the customers coming back. There's no better advertising than good referrals from satisfied
customers. Stay the course, maintain your high standards. You will continue to be a valued vendor.
Merry Christmas to all.
JB
Gilbert, AZ.
Member: Arizona Military Vehicle Collector's Club, Treasurer.
Past Pres
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Member: NRA
‘43 GPW, '53 M37 W/W, ‘54 M170 Field Ambulance,
59 M43, '76 M151A2, '86 CUCV,
'43 GPW, 416 & 101 trailers.
Past Pres
Member: MVPA #26600
Member: NRA
‘43 GPW, '53 M37 W/W, ‘54 M170 Field Ambulance,
59 M43, '76 M151A2, '86 CUCV,
'43 GPW, 416 & 101 trailers.