oil filter missing.

[36x24]

Drove "Sarge" for the first time yesterday! 1952 M37; delivered to USMC 2-52. 14K miles, bought by fire dept. in NC mountains in 1965. converted to 12v; no 24v hdwe. left. Lots of stuff missing! Spent yesterday doing points, plugs, cap, condenser, rotor, wires, etc. cleaned fuel filter, diagnosed bad in-line fuel pump(original missing) , replaced with same. Turned key and VIOLA! He lives! Actually ran quite well. Drove around the pasture with a serious grin for an hour ! No brakes of any kind which from my reading seems to be the nature of the Beast. Will probably do the dual circuit route and try to make the brakes a command instead of a suggestion. Saw a couple of weeks ago that there was no oil filter plumbing, hardlines, nothing! Talked to John at MWM and he sent me a take-off oil filter setup. Read in TM9-808 (p. 149) how it was supposed to hook-up but I don't have those connections on my block. Block number is T245 xxx; has the engine been changed maybe? Oil filters are good things; Sarge needs one. Tried to post pics but no joy. Thanks in advance for any and all input.

[m-37Bruce]

Here's where it would mount, plus a couple of other pic's of the same location.



Nuther

One More


Not sure why I don't have a pic of it mounted? I'll see about getting one, unless someone beat's me too it?
Found one!

[cuz]

[W_A_Watson_II]

Here is my engine out of the M37 that I converted to 12v for use in the PW. Shows my oil lines.

[ZGjethro]

I have a 52 truck also. It was purchased in 1985 by a fire dept in Colorado. If I can believe it, it has just over 6000 miles. Could it be 106,000? That seems high. Anyway, I was wondering if there is a spin on oil filter conversion kit for these trucks? My oil seems to get dark quickly, but I have 120-125 psi in all cylinders(I think thats what I tested when I bought it two years ago). It does not see that much actual milage, but I like to change the oil about every 300-400 miles, or twice a year. The stock filters are kind of a pain to buy.

[WarrenD]

The mileage indicated could be from a speedo change. New speedos start at zero and unless someone keeps track of the change and it follows the truck, you just won't know what the real mileage is.
I've begun to notice how fast the oil in my M gets dirty, nothing like the amber color of the oil in my daily driver after 4K miles. I recall from many years ago that older engines just ran dirty compared to the ones of today. I don't think there is anything "wrong" with the oil filter it's just the oil doing what it was meant to do back in the day, provide lubrication and cleaning. I don't recall off hand what the recommended oil change was for the Model T (every 100 miles?), but do recall it wasn't many miles by today's standards.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I have a 52 truck also. It was purchased in 1985 by a fire dept in Colorado. If I can believe it, it has just over 6000 miles. Could it be 106,000? That seems high. Anyway, I was wondering if there is a spin on oil filter conversion kit for these trucks? My oil seems to get dark quickly, but I have 120-125 psi in all cylinders(I think thats what I tested when I bought it two years ago). It does not see that much actual milage, but I like to change the oil about every 300-400 miles, or twice a year. The stock filters are kind of a pain to buy.

Compression #'s are very good.

Good oil will darken quickly in any engine, that simply lets you know it is doing its job properly. Any oil that does not darken quickly is likely not of good quality. I think I would consider looking into a higher quality product. Oil filters are no problem to get, buy them at NAPA all day long; NAPA GOLD 1100.

Yes a spin-on version of the by-pass type filter is easily available, we have converted many.

[ZGjethro]

Charles, thanks for the Napa number. I had been buying filters on ebay and had been paying a high shipping cost. If the original filters work as well, or nearly as well as a spin on, I will continue to use them.

Interesting to hear that better oils darken early. I was thinking the opposite, that lower grade oils got darker faster, but perhaps some detergent quality in the oil leads to more free contaminants being caught in the oil. I run Amsoil in my modern vehicle, and relatively cheap oil in my M37. As frequently as I change it, I cannot believe the castrol oil I have been using is not sufficient. I almost believe the frequent oil changes are cleaning out 60 years of sludge build up.

[WarrenD]

I've been told by several sources to run Shell Rotella 15-40 in the old 230cid. For the 2 changes/year the added price isn't a deal breaker.

[36x24]

thanks for the pics and input. I will be making up two hard lines and plumbing the filter canister today between turkey and football. going to have to re-arrange brackets for coil, etc. but that's housekeeping. will use Rotella since we use it in our other equipment and have it on site. if there is a tutorial somewhere I can access I will post pics; "img" button doesn't do anything for me. Thanks again for all your expertise.

[MSeriesRebuild]

thanks for the pics and input. I will be making up two hard lines and plumbing the filter canister today between turkey and football. going to have to re-arrange brackets for coil, etc. but that's housekeeping. will use Rotella since we use it in our other equipment and have it on site. if there is a tutorial somewhere I can access I will post pics; "img" button doesn't do anything for me. Thanks again for all your expertise.

You will also need to incorporate the rubber hoses into your new lines for flexability. The vibration will eventually crack the hard lines because of no isolation; putting the flex hoses in will keep that from happening.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I've been told by several sources to run Shell Rotella 15-40 in the old 230cid. For the 2 changes/year the added price isn't a deal breaker.

Rotella 15-40 is a good oil. We typically use Royal Purple synthetic; however in cases where that is not used it's either Rotella or Chevron DELO 400 in the 15-40 grade. Both these brands use the same additive package in their product.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Charles, thanks for the Napa number. I had been buying filters on ebay and had been paying a high shipping cost. If the original filters work as well, or nearly as well as a spin on, I will continue to use them.

Interesting to hear that better oils darken early. I was thinking the opposite, that lower grade oils got darker faster, but perhaps some detergent quality in the oil leads to more free contaminants being caught in the oil. I run Amsoil in my modern vehicle, and relatively cheap oil in my M37. As frequently as I change it, I cannot believe the castrol oil I have been using is not sufficient. I almost believe the frequent oil changes are cleaning out 60 years of sludge build up.

The element type filter does a good job if you use a good quality filter like the NAPA GOLD; the spin-on is more of a convenience, less mess, and faster change out factor. It is really nice to have though. Stay away from Fram filters altogether; that is the poorest quality filter on the market today most likely.

Don't be fooled; poor quality oil is just that, it does matter; and if it doesn't darken quickly, the cleaning job it does is lacking, and is not doing the clean up job that you think it is. You are spending just as much, maybe even more money doing the frequent changes than you would be to use a top quality product and change it less often. If you are only putting a few hundred miles a year on your truck. The smarter decision is to run a premium 15-40 grade oil and change the oil and filter once a year. Amsoil offers some really good products; since you have mentioned already using their products, that is what my recommendation would be in your case.

There is lots of information about engine oils on the internet these days, I would suggest you educate yourself on the later oil technology of today. You will likely get surprised very quickly once you begin to study all the factors.

[36x24]

got my oil plumbing in today successfully due primarily to the helpful atmosphere on this site. did finish the hard lines with stub hoses John at MWM sent me and fed Sarge some 15-40 Rotella. now on to the brakes. Thanks again and I'm sure I'll be asking more noob questions in the near future. I'll try to use the Search function before I ask though.

[m-37Bruce]

Keep on asking, work on posting pic's, it's easier than you think?
Somewhere here there is a tutorial on the subject, some of the issue is a spot to have a image hosting site such as webshots or picasso, there are several others too. BTW, I primarily do the cut & paste method.
Passenger Side Mirror Bracket & Diagram