12 volt gauges

philin mt · Post by **philin mt** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:12 pm

I am now working on the cab of my dodge and have been tring to find military gauges that are 12 volt( I know that thay never made them for the m37 ect) but I have found some that were made for heaters, generators, air comps, ect. But there are none that will look stock. Tonight I took a nos oil gauge (24 volt) and used the belt sander and ground off the crimp and removed the guts and done the same thing to a SW 12 volt meter, the guts from that fit right into the 24 volt case, looks stock but now I have a 12 volt gauge. The next step is to machine a new crimp ring and put it all back together. I plan to do the same for the temp, oil and fuel but I plan to use the 24 volt face so it too will look stock. I know it is a lot of work but I have had a lot of military rigs and the 24 volt system was always a PIA. ....Phil in Mt

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:14 am

6-volt...12-volt...24-volt...They all work the same way. If you have a good understanding of DC electrical systems, none is more of a "pain" than either of the other two. Things usually become a "pain" when you try to use components designed for one system with another. That's a "no-no."

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:37 am

Didn't Garbee list some Datco gauges which were fairly close looking to the OD ones but which were modern 12volt versions?

philin mt · Post by **philin mt** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:14 pm

Well I have had a lot more problems with 24 volt than 12 (6 volt is the worst but that is a long story) I have a quite large supply of 24 volt parts, so I could make things run, but the real problem is the age of the equipment. When every thing is new 24 volt works good, but when the 24 volt waterproof stuff ages there is a nightmare coming. The water leaks in but can not get out so it eats everything inside. Replacement parts are hard to find and pricy, if you have a brakedown you cant wish up a new coil or starter. A lot of the problem is that these are military 24 volt parts, as there are a lot of heavy equipment that use 24 volt to start the larger diesel engines, but for a light truck is is not worth the fight, 12 volt parts are everywhere and cheap. I want the cab of my truck to look stock right down to the gauges. (there is nothing stock about any of it except for the tin and the rear bumper) Now if I were tanking about my M38 or the M75 there would be only 24 volt military parts but for a driver 12 volt is the way to go....Phil in Mt

subagon · Post by **subagon** » Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:38 pm

Page 20 -
http://www.clarkbrothers.net/pdf/GC0906GaugeCatalog.pdf

Datcon might have options -

Faria Instruments makes gauges used on current mil-vehicles, most likely 24 volt, though...

Tanner

CGarbee · Post by **CGarbee** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:18 am

I have a page that lists the part numbers for the 12v Datcon guages that are in my Cummins powered truck. The page also have the parts numbers for the 24v ones that PeteR installed in his restoration. Datcon is owned by the same folks that own Stewart Warner (OEM for a lot of these Dodges and other MV's) and are themselves suppliers of guages to the militiary (my Mule and MEP005A's all have Datcon guages and are as surplused).

Dacon page on my website is located at:
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/speedometer.htm

A current production mil-spec guage from any of the MV dealers (shop around for prices) runs about the same money as a "good" guage from Datcon, Stewart Warner, or other suppliers. You get what you pay for...

Good luck.

philin mt · Post by **philin mt** » Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:22 pm

One of the big things I want is the gauges to lite up red in bo drive and I will make them lite white in service drive (I know that is not stock but it should have been) so I am stuck with the military inderect lit gauges, and to get the military stock look I will have to make my own...Phil in Mt