Distributor rebuild?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Distributor rebuild?
started to upgrade my distributor to the electronic ign.( thanks Charles) and noticed a small amount of wobble in the shaft. Does anyone offer a rebuild kit or do I need to send it out or by one already rebuilt?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Gerry
53 M37
53 M37
Re: Distributor rebuild?
I also did the electronic conversion and noticed that my distributor shaft had a slight wobble.
It doesnt appear to have affected performance yet but
it is definately something I will be looking to correct in the near future.

It doesnt appear to have affected performance yet but
it is definately something I will be looking to correct in the near future.
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
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- 1SG
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Re: Distributor rebuild?
Here's the facts.
Shaft wobble is not good and should be repaired by installing new bushings and reaming so the shaft is running centered and true.
Now the other considerations are like this. The wobble is far more likely to cause issues for you when using a points system, as the wobble causes the adjustment of the points to be all over the place, it will be impossible to keep the gap correct. Once it is severe enough to allow the point contacts to stick, it will stop running immediately and unless you cut the ignition power quickly, you will have a fire on your hands in fairly short order.
The other side of that issue is shaft wobble when using all electronic ignition. Until it reaches the rate of severe, it will be less or not at all noticable because the factor of the points gap and possible sticking is removed from the equasion. If it's loose enough that the magnetic ring contacts the module, well don't expect anything good in this case as the ring/module assy will be damaged or destroyed as a result of physical damage.
The WISE THING to do is attend to any and all mechanical issues at the time you install your new module kit bringing everything back to 100%; then you should enjoy years of trouble free service. It is never a wise decision to do something halfway, and in all honesty, letting the worn bushing/shaft issue go unattended is doing exactly that.
Shaft wobble is not good and should be repaired by installing new bushings and reaming so the shaft is running centered and true.
Now the other considerations are like this. The wobble is far more likely to cause issues for you when using a points system, as the wobble causes the adjustment of the points to be all over the place, it will be impossible to keep the gap correct. Once it is severe enough to allow the point contacts to stick, it will stop running immediately and unless you cut the ignition power quickly, you will have a fire on your hands in fairly short order.
The other side of that issue is shaft wobble when using all electronic ignition. Until it reaches the rate of severe, it will be less or not at all noticable because the factor of the points gap and possible sticking is removed from the equasion. If it's loose enough that the magnetic ring contacts the module, well don't expect anything good in this case as the ring/module assy will be damaged or destroyed as a result of physical damage.
The WISE THING to do is attend to any and all mechanical issues at the time you install your new module kit bringing everything back to 100%; then you should enjoy years of trouble free service. It is never a wise decision to do something halfway, and in all honesty, letting the worn bushing/shaft issue go unattended is doing exactly that.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Distributor rebuild?
I agree Charles.
I am doing a complete resto so to skip this minor thing would be stupid.
Midwest said he could supply the parts I need.
I am doing a complete resto so to skip this minor thing would be stupid.
Midwest said he could supply the parts I need.
Last edited by Gerry on Sat Jul 09, 2011 11:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Gerry
53 M37
53 M37
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Re: Distributor rebuild?
I have no idea of the parts you will be getting, not knocking what I don't know about; but I will say this, if the bushings are not sized to exactly .501" ID after installation, you will be shooting yourself in the foot. Are you getting new .500" ID bushings that can be sized to .501" ID after they are pressed in? Forget the so called pre-sized bushings, they don't exist; bushing ID will shrink when they are pressed in; sizing will be a must and is critical. Do you have the correct reamer to size the bushings? If not you are selling yourself short on getting a good build. What I'm saying is without the exact correct reamer, (not a Chinese adjustable model that some folks think will do the job just great) you will likely wind up with over cut, out of round bushings that are no better than what you have now. Another word of caution, some will try to sell you the NOS bottom section of the distributor housing which has the bushings already installed. Only issue is that on 99% of those I've dealt with, the bushings will be over cut, even a new shaft will likely have wobble from the get go. The bottom line is this, if the shaft will move from side to side any at all; IT'S TOO MUCH!!! What it needs to be is free rotating, and absolutely NO SIDE PLAY. It's a precise procedure to get it the best it can be.Gerry wrote:I agree Carles.
I am doing a complete resto so to skip this minor thing would be stupid.
Midwest said he could supply the parts I need.
Don't forget about the oil wick groove that must be cut in the top bushing so the shaft gets oil from the reservoir, and also the oil hole that must be drilled in the bottom bushing so it oils from the engine.
If you are not properly equipped with the right tooling and know how, this job is better sent out to a pro along with a very strict set of instructions, Also let them know up front you will be inspecting it before payment to be sure it is right. If they turn you away like some will, don't sweat it, just look for a journeyman who is willing to do it right.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Re: Distributor rebuild?
Our labor rate is $65 per hour plus parts and supplies. A complete distributor rebuild + testing usually takes around 2.5 hours unless there is something out of the ordinary going on.Gerry wrote:What do you charge?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
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Re: Distributor rebuild?
I had a private message earlier today from a person who regulary post on these forums suggesting that my replies above in this thread were offered in the name of soliciting work. Personally I can't really see why offering a detailed explanation to someone concerning an issue they have a question about would be viewed as solicitation on my end. We are happy to help anyone who desires to use our services; but I surely do not spend time here to solicit jobs.
We have a backlog of major restoration projects that will take us years to complete, and plenty of smaller run in projects on top of that. So, Cuz do you really think I need to be here trying to secure a 2 hour distributor rebuild job? You undoubtedly have a lot of free time to sit around and worry about what we have going on.
We have a backlog of major restoration projects that will take us years to complete, and plenty of smaller run in projects on top of that. So, Cuz do you really think I need to be here trying to secure a 2 hour distributor rebuild job? You undoubtedly have a lot of free time to sit around and worry about what we have going on.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Distributor rebuild?
It surprises me that you even care what I think. You never have in the past. Why choke up the technical topic these folks are discussing with our differences. You PM was unfriendly enough. I see no reason to clutter this topic with it.Cuz do you really think I need to be here trying to secure a 2 hour distributor rebuild job? You undoubtedly have a lot of free time to sit around and worry about what we have going on.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
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- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
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- Location: Norwood, NC
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Re: Distributor rebuild?
I saw no reason for the PM you sent to start with, clutter I believe was your term.cuz wrote:It surprises me that you even care what I think. You never have in the past. Why choke up the technical topic these folks are discussing with our differences. You PM was unfriendly enough. I see no reason to clutter this topic with it.Cuz do you really think I need to be here trying to secure a 2 hour distributor rebuild job? You undoubtedly have a lot of free time to sit around and worry about what we have going on.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Re: Distributor rebuild?
Hey hey, back to your corners, Gents. All are entitled to their opinions and perceptions-each forum member has the capacity to form their own conclusions without mud-slinging with the gloves off. I don't believe in the solicitation theory-from my perspective Charles is letting everyone know that such services are available through a number of our forum members-not just HIS services (see his endorsement of John Bizal's bed floors as an example)....
Come to think of it, we were overdue for a dust-up....
Gary
Come to think of it, we were overdue for a dust-up....
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004