engine oil

[rtkjmk]

I was wondering what is the proper oil weight to use in my 1953 M37 . I have a fresh engine and great oil pressure , between 45-55 psi on the road , 35-40 idle , warmed up . The TM says 30w in summer and 20w in winter, but I want something better than that . I used shell 10w-30 for break in and now run Rotella 15w-40 for the zinc . I do not use the vehicle in the winter ,so most of it's use is summer driving in western NY . I feel the 10w-30 is to thin for this engine when it gets hot , but then I wonder if the Rotella is to heavy for good lubrication on the the old Flat Head . Add to that is the fact they took all the good stuff out of the newer oils , in order to save the environment (YA RIGHT) so what to use is very confusing . I know nothing about synthetics and was looking into Royal Purple ,seems like the way to go . Bob K

[cuz]

Low utilization, low RPM operation means the straight weight oils will serve you quite well. The price of the full synthetics cannot be recovered through high mileage use since you won't put the miles on. You need to be changing oil at least every 6 months when you are only putting less than 2000 miles a year on the truck to clean the moisture and other trash out of the system. A top shelf oil like Shell Rotunda in the correct seasonal straight weight is just fine. Modern straight weights are also available in both semi-synthetic and mineral. What oil mileage have you been getting during the break-in period and after you determined the break-in was complete and switched oil brands?

[MSeriesRebuild]

All our engines get 15-40, for reasons too in depth for the time I have to explain right now. I love Royal Purple, we use it in all our equipment here at the shop; however I would not advise its use in a freshly rebuilt engine. I would want at least 2,500 or so miles on a rebuild before using the purple. In my opinion, Purple 15-40 is the best of the best in a 230. Again that opinion is based on more than time permits me getting into right now.

Long story short, all our builds get Rotella 15-40 from the get go. We recommend the first change at 500 miles after a rebuild; then again at 2,500; at which time we recommend changing over to Royal Purple 15-40. It will run a 10,000 mile interval and still be ready for more under normal circumstances. Obviously if you don't run but 500 miles a year, it would be foolish to run a 10,000 miles interval as it would take 20 years. Most of our fire service users who are on Purple run for a year doing annual oil changes in the spring, this is in all their trucks; some go 2 years between changes. With Royal Purple, there has been 0 problems as its additive package is super strong and combats the condensed moisture / resulting acid issues extremely well. They have done oil analysis to back up their change intervals. This has saved them a pile of cash, even after considering the higher initial cost of the oil. There are also other reasons which come into play.

[creinemann]

Perfect timing with the Oil info, I think I'll give the Royal Purple a shot, I have been running Amsoil in all my other vehicles, and was just getting ready to talk to their engineers and see what they would recommend for the dodge.

[rtkjmk]

Thanks all for the info ; I haven't used a drop of oil , between oil changes , I put about 800-1000 miles on the new engine last year . I went a little crazy with the rebuild ,tried to do it right ,lots of NOS parts ,nice to see I haven't lost the old touch ,I can still read the mike under the lights ! I also change the oil in spring ,and in the fall before I put it away in the barn . I use the Rotella in my other equipment and have had no problems so last oil change I used the 15w-40 in the 37 . I am a "oil pressure " man , I like good pressure , it's the basis of everything else , and oil and filter changes are cheap . I like to keep all the fluids changed on a regular basis , cheap insurance .bob k

[MSeriesRebuild]

You mention oil pressure; it brings this thought to mind. When we were first considering the change over to Royal Purple products; I asked extensive questions. Their rep brought out 5 gallons for us to test; he told me right up front that I might see an ever so slight drop in pressure on the gauge. He went on to explain that Royal Purple is blended to be easier to pump, obviously that makes it better in cold weather and at start up in general. It flows more freely thus the possibility of a lower pressure reading. Mineral oils are heavier by nature; even though they fall into specs to meet 15-40 grade (or whatever) criteria. This will make them harder to flow and cause a higher pressure build up. Simple explanation; higher pressure is not necessarily a good sign; significant flow volume is a huge factor in getting the job done the best it can be.

[rtkjmk]

Charles ,that is very interesting , you are exactly right ,pressure and volume go hand in hand . I want to put some miles on the new engine ,make sure everything is "okey-dokey" and then go with some Royal purple . The whole reason for my questions is that I have some "Parade Duty" coming up , low speed , lots of idling in summer heat , so good oil is a must , again ,thanks for all the info ,bob k

[rtquig]

I've been running the 30W, should I change it out to a multi weight next time? Engine is tight.

[MSeriesRebuild]

I've been running the 30W, should I change it out to a multi weight next time? Engine is tight.

That is totally your choice.

[vtdeucedriver]

Bump for the new guys

[pwrwagonfire]

At charles suggestion, I have been running 15w40 ever since I got my engine completely re-built. DEFINITELY good for my situation, as the truck gets a bit of winter use.

I'm happy with it.

-T

[HingsingM37]

I have been using the Rotella 15w-40. This past oil change I added 5oz of Ambertech as well. We took on the line at work, and it is very popular in the mining industry.
I am not a big fan of crankcase additives, but after some convincing I figured these old flathead solid lifter engines could use some extra help and gave it a shot. I have run the Ambertech in my daily driver already with no ill effects and a slight increase in mileage. We are talking Molecular Surface Modification baby, we shall see.

[hbb]

Everyone that commented on the oils and types I agree with, but what I might add is get familiar to the operating pressure readings of your engine hot or cold to establish a base line to follow with the oil of your choice and if you should see a major change then a concern will be in order.

Inspect the oil and filter at the time of oil change. Should you see metallic looking oil or pieces of foreign material further inspection would be required to prevent a catastrophic occurrence!I

Different oil preferences are evident across the board and there is no total right or wrong as long as the oil meets the standard requirements (API SM/SL/SJ/CC/CD) and you change it on a schedule depending on your local climate conditions and mileage.

I myself use Lucas oil products in synthetic s or just synthetic oil (because of the higher heat reducing quality’s), but that is just me and I do not promote any specific brand or type.

All of that said the new mineral base oils have the additives that were not even thought of when our trucks were first engineered and built resulting in a superior lubrication which greatly improves the life expectancy of the friction/heat building components and that's our base objective.

hb

[HingsingM37]

Well upon further review, Ambertech must have been left over from PT Barnums inventory. This stuff is complete garbage and snake oil. When I tried it in my M37 it turned the 15W-40 oil to the viscosity of water and caused a 20lb loss in oil pressure.

I immediatley told the powers to be at BDI the stuff was a fraud. They begged to differ. So BDI greed to pay for my oil change and anyalsis. The test came back showing that my engine had "made some metal". Luckily I only ran it an hour or so. I fear it may not ever be the same though. Gage now drops at hot idle to about 10-15, used to be 20-30.

The fellow who purveyed this product to the company called me assuring they would cover any damage done. I forwarded the oil test results to them. I was then told by a BDI manager the test lab I used (one recommended by our firm) was "biased" against the product. Yeah right....So far no offer of a long block replacement.

A fellow on the Car Talk web page summed it up best:

"Best I can tell from their website he use a propreitary organic additive to molecularly modify the surfaces of metals. If that ain't BS, I don;t know what is.

Do you really want to molecularly modify the surface of your cylinders with an unknown substance? Your rings? Your bearings? I think not. I know I don't.

It's a scam. Any brand name oil of the proper ratings already contains all the additives you need. Best case, It'll do no harm, but it'lll do no good. Worst case, it'll change the viscosity of the oil to where it can no longer do its job.....and you'll end up with a very expensive boat anchor that looks like a car engine[/i]."


So far the truck is still running strong. I should have stuck to the motto I always lived by "use the best petroleum based oil and no crankcase additives.."

[w30bob]

David,

Appreciate the heads-up on the Ambertech! Lots of guys who used something that didn't make an improvement or did worse would just shut up and not talk about it. Thanks again.

regards,
bob