Some painting questions...

[98taco3]

I was able to work out a trade deal to get the body work and paint done on my M37 but i have a few questions. I have to supply paint and primer. I know which color to go with as far as gillespie paint goes but my question relates to the primer. Has anyone used another cheaper primer other than the one gillespie makes? Is red oxide primer all the same basic stuff? Id like to save some cash if possible since it needs some metal work and ill have some material costs tied up there. I know ill need 2 gallons of each. Any thoughts?

[SOTVEN]

FROM THE LITTLE I KNOW ABOUT PAINTS AND ALL THE PROJECTS I HAVE EVER DONE, I HAVE REALISED THAT PRIMERS AND THINEERS SHOULD BE WHAT THE PAINT MANUFACTURER DICTATES. OTHERWISE, THERE IS A HIGH RISK OF IMPROPER APPLICATION OF THE PAINT, TOO LONG TO DRY, AND EVEN WORSE, NOT AS STRONG OF COATING IN THE END AGAINST THE ELEMENTS. I WOULD GO WITH THE PROPER PRIMER. JUST MY TWO CENTS. GOOD LUCK

[MSeriesRebuild]

I can tell you right at the get go; if you are planning on only 2 gallons of paint, you can probably read a news paper through it when completed. I won't get into the paint story again as it has been hashed here many times. We deal mostly with high end paint, so obviously our workmanship will not compare to what you are thinking of doing, thus no use to get into the $$ aspect of materials or labor.

The red oxide primer such as Gillespie offers has extremely low material build characteristics. A high build primer will do a much better job with a lot less product; thus you will spend less $$ (especially on labor) using a higher end high build primer/surfacer than you will applying multiple coats of the red oxide Gillespie product. In comparison, 2 medium wet coats of a high build primer will build a much better prepped surface than 6+ coats of red oxide will. The fill characteristics will be off the charts better; as a result, so will your paint job.

[98taco3]

Makes sense! I appreciate it Charles, you answered my question perfectly. Ill go with a higher build primer. I was also looking at going with Ord 9, any experience? I understand it wont be a "perfect" match to the original color but thats fine with me. It is quite a bit more expensive and also a 2 part catalyst system. Not just thin and spray. Any thoughts?

[98taco3]

The truck will also see quite a bit of mountain 4 wheeling so it will get scratched/dinged every now and again. Would the more expensive paint systems be fairly easy to touch up or would it have to have the panel resprayed?

[Glenn]

I'm curious, wouldn't the person who was going to do the bodywork and painting tell someone exactly what type of paint to buy in the first place, rather than leaving the paint buyer to figure it out?

[Tom @ Snake River]

Glen,
When it comes to OD paint, most body shops would not have a clue. Enamels are now a thing of the past.
I gave up painting cars as you end up with $200.00 worth of material on the shelf after you finish buying the proper reduces, catylysts, ect.
Charles gave some darn good advise.
I can tell you that I tried to go cheap and use an enamel primer from the hardware store and it did not work, it was still not compatable. I now buy the primer from Gillespe.

[m-37Bruce]

Glen,
When it comes to OD paint, most body shops would not have a clue. Enamels are now a thing of the past.
I gave up painting cars as you end up with $200.00 worth of material on the shelf after you finish buying the proper reduces, catylysts, ect.
Charles gave some darn good advise.
I can tell you that I tried to go cheap and use an enamel primer from the hardware store and it did not work, it was still not compatable. I now buy the primer from Gillespe.

This is what I've done, but Charles is right, the high solids, or high build-up does make more sense.
I do like the reducer added to the paint, the gloss will be less likely to scratch, if the gloss bothers you add a matting agent, the guys at NAPA or your automotive paint supplier should be able to work out a formula for you?

[MSeriesRebuild]

Makes sense! I appreciate it Charles, you answered my question perfectly. Ill go with a higher build primer. I was also looking at going with Ord 9, any experience? I understand it wont be a "perfect" match to the original color but thats fine with me. It is quite a bit more expensive and also a 2 part catalyst system. Not just thin and spray. Any thoughts?

Have not had experience with Ord 9. If color match is not a deal for you, I would go with a locally available paint system from a reputable supplier. You can stay away from the really high end products, but still get a much more durable 2 part paint than Gillespie is. If you know scratching may be an issue, use a hardener also, that will really help at keeping minor scratches minor.

Paint is like electronics these days, constantly changing. We are looking now at a new system for our next project.

[98taco3]

ok, i was wondering about locally sourcing the paint. we have a great little auto paint shop in the next town north of here. Ill also go talk to napa and see what they can come up with. Thanks guys, ill probably stick away from gillespie now

[MSeriesRebuild]

ok, i was wondering about locally sourcing the paint. we have a great little auto paint shop in the next town north of here. Ill also go talk to napa and see what they can come up with. Thanks guys, ill probably stick away from gillespie now

NAPA has paint #'s for government spec shades , they can custom mix the exact OD that you need to match the 24087. It's been 6 or so years since we've used it, I may still have the #'s on file; I could check if you like.

[98taco3]

Ya if you have the codes and any idea how much you used per truck that would be amazing! I know the owner of a napa the next town over and could get a really great price on it. The local napa here in town pretty much told me to go pound sand, just to lazy to look anything up for anyone.

[Glenn]

Glen,
When it comes to OD paint, most body shops would not have a clue. Enamels are now a thing of the past.
I gave up painting cars as you end up with $200.00 worth of material on the shelf after you finish buying the proper reduces, catylysts, ect.
Charles gave some darn good advise.
I can tell you that I tried to go cheap and use an enamel primer from the hardware store and it did not work, it was still not compatable. I now buy the primer from Gillespe.

I'll rephrase what I said. I would have expected that the painter/bodyshop would have specified things that have been mentioned such as build, compatability, etc., since the final result will be on their shoulders. I'm thinking that if they don't know what to tell someone to buy, that they would not necessarily know how to spray it either without gathering info on it.

[k8icu]

Thanks guys, ill probably stick away from gillespie now

You know the Gillespie paints are not bad paints. I've been using gp for about 15 years off and on. It works good, sprays nice and holds up well to the elements. I have nothing bad to say about the paint. Whether you are painting a house or an army truck the keys to a good paint job is preperation and primer. The top coat isn't going to be anygood no matter what paint you use if the prep and primer sucked. For the cost of the GP paint even with shipping you may find it less money out of pocket than the local paint shop because with the GP paint you have paint and thinner. With other systems you have paint, reducer, hardner, flatner, catalist etc etc. The paint per gallon may be less money than the GP w/shipping but by the time you add everything else in your way more expensive. Plus I've found that the GP paint tends to be more "flexible" where as many of the new systems will chip and crack when struck. I don't have the visuals to make my point but hopefully you can understand what I'm trying to say. I don't have any vested interest in GP paint I just think it's a good product for a good price.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Glen,
When it comes to OD paint, most body shops would not have a clue. Enamels are now a thing of the past.
I gave up painting cars as you end up with $200.00 worth of material on the shelf after you finish buying the proper reduces, catylysts, ect.
Charles gave some darn good advise.
I can tell you that I tried to go cheap and use an enamel primer from the hardware store and it did not work, it was still not compatable. I now buy the primer from Gillespe.

I'll rephrase what I said. I would have expected that the painter/bodyshop would have specified things that have been mentioned such as build, compatability, etc., since the final result will be on their shoulders. I'm thinking that if they don't know what to tell someone to buy, that they would not necessarily know how to spray it either without gathering info on it.

I wondered about that also. Someone in the business usually has their favorite brand that they know well and are partial too. If I went to a shop who offered no suggestions as to their opninon of coming out with a good job, I would likely be very apprehensive about them and would just move along to someone else I could feel more comfortable with about doing me a satisfactory job.