The Heat is Gone?

[ZGjethro]

I had another idea, which is probably not wise. You guys tell me what you think. If I took out the thermastat and disconnected the hose feeding the radiator, is there any reason why I could not run a hose into the radiator and let the dirty water run into a catch tub? If I started with a cold engine, would the continual influx of cold water hurt the engine? For that matter I could run a hose from my hot water heater into the radiator if hot water is better. I would like to let the motor idle for a good long while to clean out some of the 58 years of rust which is inside it.

[cuz]

If you go that far then it would be best to just reverse flush the engine and the radiator. This does not require running the engine.

[ZGjethro]

Thanks Cuz. I'll check out what that involves online. Each time I drained my system down and let the coolant sit in the bucket for a week or two, there was about an eight inch of sludge left in the bottom of the bucket. I am sure there is more inside the engine. Are flushing chemicals too harsh for an old system like we have? After flushing I will refill with a 50/50 mix.

[cuz]

I usually just use an air press over water flow backflush setup. With the thermostat out and the water pump off you connect the press nozzle to the thermostat empty housing. It's best to avoid high pressures when you back flush the radiator and heater cores. If you're getting persistent rust deposits you should check the condition of the water distribution tube in the block.

[outsider]

When installing a water filter you must make sure that with the ports you use that water will be forced through the filter by the water pump. That is why I normally use the same ports, or ports right next to the heater circuit as you are then positive of the flow. As there is a "in" and "out" port on the filter and the water must flow in the right direction. You don't need to use a port especially low on the block as when the engine is running the water pump is putting a lot of water flow through the block and that will pick up the sludge and other nasties and push them through the system. That is why radiators plug as the stuff gets pushed through the system and gets lodged in the small core tubes of the radiator.

With a lot of rust accumulating in your radiator in a short time you should check your chemical additives in your coolant system. Check strips are available at your local HD truck parts shop. With the chemicals in balance you should not be getting rusting in the coolant system as the additives should stop any corrosion from occurring.

Steve

[MSeriesRebuild]

[quote="ZGjethro"]I have had my M37 for a little over a year, and have had to drain down the coolant twice. Each time, the coolant sat in a 5 gallon bucket for a while before being filtered and poured back into the radiator. Each time there was a rust colored sludge left in the bottom of the bucket. I am interested in a filter, and also in flushing the system. With these filters in their own loop, do they only filter a small amount of coolant which happens to get through them?[/quot

The volume of flow is dependant upon the ID of the hose you plumb it with, as the head or filter elements have no orfice. We use 3/8" ID hose on ours, the hole size at the block drain is 1/4" NPT, larger than that diameter is not doing anything to increase flow volume. That allows more flow than you would think for sure and does a fantastic job. Ours are plumbed using brass fittings and 3/8" silicone heater hose. This type hose is very soft and pliable, you must use lined hose clamps, (for soft wall hose). It will last a lifetime if not physically damaged. Silicone hose is also available in sizes for the radiator plumbing, well worth the little more it cost to initially install it.

Again I emphasize pick up the flow to your filter at the lowest point in the block. We have had some filter heads which included installation suggestions that specifically recommend this as an only option to guarantee positive filtration. That is where the most sediment is, the heavy stuff will not be floating around in the coolant, but will come out that block drain port. I've tried it both ways, it does work, this is a well proven fact. There will be positive pressure anywhere there is block access to coolant, the driver is mainly in where you put the return hose, suction is also an issue, you must have it to force a good flow. At the port on top of the water pump is great, if your heater return is hooked there, you can tee it. Most newer water pumps also have a port in the lower right side of the pump body, this will be a 3/8" pipe plug. This is also a good return route to use.

[patch22]

I recall a few years ago there was an article in MV magazine about adding a bypass coolant filter to a multifuel Deuce, I think the theory and plumbing would be similar in this case. A search thru the MV index should bring up what you need.... and of course it's best to start with a clean system, as has been stated...

[HingsingM37]

Well last weekend we had a 58 degree Sunday so I disconnected my heater hoses. I put the hose to the inlet side of the heater and very little if any water came out the other end. I turned up the water, waited, and "swoosh". Suddenly a clump of debris blew out the hose and water was flowing again. I let it run for about 3 minutes. I reconnected my hoses and toped off the coolant. I now have a hot heater box again.
I decided to look into my blower motor. If you recall I was not sure if the aftermarket heater box installed by the fire dept. was 12 or 24VDC. I could find no trace or history of the manufacturer, and the motor itself had no markings.
I hooked the 24volt wire to it and the fan screamed as if it was going to disintergrate. I thought it was running faster than a 24 volt motor should even on high? I decided it must be 12VDC. Logical since they had a hodge-podge of 12 and 24 volt accessories when I bought it.
Mmmm, what to do? I did not want to run a 12 volt tap wire. I then spotted a box under my work bench containing scrap AC/DC frequency drive and speed controls I had collected from work. I found a speed control and tore it open. Inside was a beautiful rheostat. I pulled it out. I gathered some alligator clips and test wires. I rigged it to the motor and put the juice to it. Whoaa! I had a variable speed heater motor going. I let it run low and high for about five minutes. Nothing got hot nor did the battery gage flutter.
The speed control had everything else I needed. Switches, breaker, fuse block. Next step is to fab up a "military" looking control panel for the stat , switch, and fuse. I think this should work? I am no electrical guru, so if anybody has any input or reason I should not use this set up please comment. I will keep you posted

[Wayne64]

Felt I should bring this to the top. What I have done for many a moon is use regular brass hose connectors on my heater hoses. They serve three purposes. The first is if you blow a heater core you can by-pass the core with only a screw driver. The second neat trick is you have a ready made connection for a garden hose for a flush, from either side (note: don't hit it with full pressure). Lastly cone shaped screens are sold that have a hose washer attached for washing machines. I use one on the supply side and check it about a week after a fresh build or when the heater stops putting out. The only pic I could find was of the 5.0 HO that I installed in my 79 Ranchero, look on left side of fire wall.

[SOTVEN]

Felt I should bring this to the top. What I have done for many a moon is use regular brass hose connectors on my heater hoses. They serve three purposes. The first is if you blow a heater core you can by-pass the core with only a screw driver. The second neat trick is you have a ready made connection for a garden hose for a flush, from either side (note: don't hit it with full pressure). Lastly cone shaped screens are sold that have a hose washer attached for washing machines. I use one on the supply side and check it about a week after a fresh build or when the heater stops putting out. The only pic I could find was of the 5.0 HO that I installed in my 79 Ranchero, look on left side of fire wall.

THESE ARE SOME SMART IDEAS THERE. THANKS FOR SHARING