drivability problems

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:08 pm

well drove it today brakes great front end feels like an alignment but dam thing is loadin up and dyin then hard to restart, had a new float needle and seat put in to stop flooding adjusted the float but somethin just isn't right, sandblasted the plugs, I don't know if i got a fuel proplem or ignition problem or bad plugs or all the above

truck rides nicer then i thought it would

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:48 pm

should I try changin out the regulator box?

also someone offered a electronic ign. if someone can get me the info incase we need to change over thanks

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:53 am

Pretty sure that was Charles Talbert who has the electronic ignition stuff.

Dicktater · Post by **Dicktater** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:09 am

TOM R wrote:
also someone offered a electronic ign. if someone can get me the info incase we need to change over thanks

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/default.aspx

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:00 am

I believe that the Pertronix units are the ones Charles uses. I'm sure he'll correct me if I've shot myself in the foot.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:35 am

TOM R wrote:well drove it today brakes great front end feels like an alignment but dam thing is loadin up and dyin then hard to restart, had a new float needle and seat put in to stop flooding adjusted the float but somethin just isn't right, sandblasted the plugs, I don't know if i got a fuel proplem or ignition problem or bad plugs or all the above truck rides nicer then i thought it would

General rule of thumb, do a total tune up to include complete carb cleaning & rebuild, & a complete distributor rebuild. Don't forget to closely check the clearance between the distributor shaft & bushings also. Worn bushings are a problem regardless of what else you replace. Replacing plugs with new ones is also necessary in most cases. Be sure to check the plug wires for damage & good continuity. Be sure to check for proper fuel delivery. Doing these simple things up front usually saves many headaches. If you still have issues after a complete tune up, my next move would be a compression test on all cylinders. This will pin point any internal issues that could be a contributing factor.

monkeymissile · Post by **monkeymissile** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:37 am

Lifer wrote:I believe that the Pertronix units are the ones Charles uses. I'm sure he'll correct me if I've shot myself in the foot. ;)

yes, he offers the Pertronix, just got one. Not sure if he has special 24v ones made up for us since they don't seem to be a stock item?

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:53 am

well she starts fine cold and runs carb and fuel pump are new ovehauled points and condensor are new wires look fine, is there a way to check timing on these with a normal lite or do i need to buy a special one? we will be getting new plugs found em for $8 each at tnj murry where i got the mutt heater, mutts use the same plugs

also is there a standard # of turns for the fuel screw on the base of the carb?

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 4:23 pm

TOM R wrote:well she starts fine cold and runs carb and fuel pump are new ovehauled points and condensor are new wires look fine, is there a way to check timing on these with a normal lite or do i need to buy a special one? we will be getting new plugs found em for $8 each at tnj murry where i got the mutt heater, mutts use the same plugs

also is there a standard # of turns for the fuel screw on the base of the carb?

Yes checking timing is simple, you can use an external 12 volt battery to power the light. These engines perform best all around with the timing set at 4 degrees BEFORE top dead center. A good default setting for the idle mixture screw is 1 1/4 turns open, however final adjustment must be made after the engine is running & warmed up to normal temp.

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:38 pm

the inductive timing lite pickup will work on the gi plug wires?

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 9:20 am

TOM R wrote:the inductive timing lite pickup will work on the gi plug wires?

There is a GI adapter that screws onto the plug & wire end that the inductive pick up will work on. I assume you don't have this item, you can rig something to work without a lot of problem. The reason it won't work on the waterproof cable is because it is a shielded cable. As long as you get a short link interconnected that isn't shielded, you'll be fine.

KenInGA · Post by **KenInGA** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:34 pm

if you tune up your distributor there should be no reason to switch to an electronic ignition. This system if much more rugged and reliable than other mechanical ignitions. My distributor has probably been worked on once in its 45 years of service and it works flawlessly.

Although Charles does have 24volt Solid state ignition kits for the M37. http://mseriesrebuild.com/services.htm#

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:29 pm

well i started her up in the 15* weather after a bad freeze last night, hooked the mechanical pump back up and she fired off fast, left her sit idling for an hour, seems fine now, all i did was adjust the screw to 1 1/4 turns on the carb base, though now the exhaust burns the eyes and smells does this denote lean? still need to test drive again and do the plugs,

on the plus side heater works great cooks the cab with the hard top on

still need to check the timing as i cannot remember if i pulled the dist. when we bought her for ign probs we were having

drivability problems

drivability problems

Re: drivability problems