ign problem

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:10 pm

well the truck ran great when i finished the heater instal now she won't run, cleaned the plugs, tried 2 new condensors and seems to just flood got power to the dist. and cranked with the plugs out and they are firing any ideas?

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:55 pm

is there a way to test condensors?
second problem may be I think i ran out of gas and we only put in 5 gallons sine we baught her so now i am thinkin there was water in the tank( and god knows what else) put in 10 gallons fresh but only kickin still will not start(tried gas before replacin the condensors) yes i primed it and have a fuel filter

gwalker · Post by **gwalker** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:35 pm

Im not aware of a pracital test for condensers actually they seldom fail anyway. If you have the plugs firing then the ign. system is ok, possibly the coil is weak maybe. Plugs can get wet enough from sevier flooding not to work well afterwords.

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:52 pm

nos coil, i figured we need new plugs even after cleaning them

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 4:35 am

As already mentioned, your ignition system sounds OK. You mentioned that you ran it out of gas. That being the case, you might have picked up some crud from the tank. I'd suggest cleaning the carburetor and blowing out the fuel line as the next step.

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:02 am

got an inline filter before the pump hoping there was not water in the tank from sitting for years

peter e mark · Post by **peter e mark** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:37 am

As My truck will also not start, and in reviewing my old Chiltons troubleshooting manula form 1964, I noticed a specific tect for the condenser, to wit: First test the primary system by removing the distributor cap, turn on ignition switch, test with voltmeter for power present at coil + terminal, then with points in closed position, using screwdriver blade, open and close points. Observe for spark. If no spark, continue with ignition switch OFF, bump engine till ther points are CLOSED , unfasten the condenser from its mounting in the dsistributor body without disconnecting the condernser electric lead. Place the condenser in such a way that it is not touching ground, turn ignition switch ON, Now using a screwdriver carefully push the movable part of the points so as to open and close the points. If there is spark now where the re was no spark with the first test, it merans the condenser is grounded and is shorting out the power before it gets to the points. Peter mark

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:40 am

well i sandblasted the plugs and got her to run and gas is pouring from the new carb , guess either something got past the filter and jambed the float or water was in the tank and froze in the float

guess the carb is coming back off since it wil not idle now and won't restart due to loading up

TOM R · Post by **TOM R** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:19 pm

well pulled the carb disasembled blew out and reinstalled, little better but still no idle guess it needs to come off and goto the rebuilder for a checkup, must have got somethin in it that i cannot find

unless the 10 galloons of gas we just put in is bad

gwalker · Post by **gwalker** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 3:23 pm

when u added gas you stirred up anything that was on the bottom of the tank an mixed it all up good

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 6:23 pm

TOM R wrote:well pulled the carb disasembled blew out and reinstalled, little better but still no idle guess it needs to come off and goto the rebuilder for a checkup, must have got somethin in it that i cannot find unless the 10 galloons of gas we just put in is bad

Yes you need to go in the carb for a thorough cleaning it sounds like, but if you don't clean that tank also, anything you do to the carb will be fruitless as the same thing will happen again.