I decided to run a compression test today and here are my findings, from cylinder 1 to 6:
110 psi
112 psi
101 psi
110 psi
102 psi
119 psi
Seems to be a quite a variation between the lowest and highest, should I be worried unduly ??
I have noticed a fair amount of "ticking" noises coming from the valve side of the engine, if this is related.
Charles, if you are out there, could you cast your eye over these results please ?
Cheers
Stu
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
M37UK wrote:I decided to run a compression test today and here are my findings, from cylinder 1 to 6:
110 psi
112 psi
101 psi
110 psi
102 psi
119 psi
Seems to be a quite a variation between the lowest and highest, should I be worried unduly ??
I have noticed a fair amount of "ticking" noises coming from the valve side of the engine, if this is related.
Charles, if you are out there, could you cast your eye over these results please ?
Cheers
Stu
Cylinders 3 & 5 are on the low side. Pump about 3 good pumps from a pump oil can into the plug holes and retest immediately. If the pressure goes up significantly, rings and cylinder wall wear is the bigger issue. If this is the case, a rebuild only will fix that. If pressure changes little to none after adding the oil, valves are the issue. Grinding and reseating should likely fix that. The other readings are typical of a worn engine. 100 PSI is actually the border line where you will start to notice performance deteriorating a little at a time. 90 is to the point you will have intermittent skipping going on at best, below 90, well that's pretty much hopeless, appropriate attention required. Have you noticed anything that I've mentioned going on? If a retest shows valves are the likely cause, repair in that area should buy you a good many miles before it demands a rebuild. It won't be a powerhouse, and depends on how you need to use the truck.
M37UK wrote:I decided to run a compression test today and here are my findings, from cylinder 1 to 6:
110 psi
112 psi
101 psi
110 psi
102 psi
119 psi
Seems to be a quite a variation between the lowest and highest, should I be worried unduly ??
I have noticed a fair amount of "ticking" noises coming from the valve side of the engine, if this is related.
Charles, if you are out there, could you cast your eye over these results please ?
Cheers
Stu
Cylinders 3 & 5 are on the low side. Pump about 3 good pumps from a pump oil can into the plug holes and retest immediately. If the pressure goes up significantly, rings and cylinder wall wear is the bigger issue. If this is the case, a rebuild only will fix that. If pressure changes little to none after adding the oil, valves are the issue. Grinding and reseating should likely fix that. The other readings are typical of a worn engine. 100 PSI is actually the border line where you will start to notice performance deteriorating a little at a time. 90 is to the point you will have intermittent skipping going on at best, below 90, well that's pretty much hopeless, appropriate attention required. Have you noticed anything that I've mentioned going on? If a retest shows valves are the likely cause, repair in that area should buy you a good many miles before it demands a rebuild. It won't be a powerhouse, and depends on how you need to use the truck.
I poured in a little engine oil into the plug holes and re-tested, readings went upto 130 psi which point towards rings and cylinder wall issues. I aint in the mood for rebuilding the engine so will have to live with it.
I havent had any performance issues with the truck at all apart from bad idling but she will sit at 50 all day on tarmac.
Once I install the electronic ignition and give the carb a service that should keep me going long enough to save for a 4BT.
Thanks for your advice Charles
Stu
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
M37UK wrote:I decided to run a compression test today and here are my findings, from cylinder 1 to 6:
110 psi
112 psi
101 psi
110 psi
102 psi
119 psi
Seems to be a quite a variation between the lowest and highest, should I be worried unduly ??
I have noticed a fair amount of "ticking" noises coming from the valve side of the engine, if this is related.
Charles, if you are out there, could you cast your eye over these results please ?
Cheers
Stu
Cylinders 3 & 5 are on the low side. Pump about 3 good pumps from a pump oil can into the plug holes and retest immediately. If the pressure goes up significantly, rings and cylinder wall wear is the bigger issue. If this is the case, a rebuild only will fix that. If pressure changes little to none after adding the oil, valves are the issue. Grinding and reseating should likely fix that. The other readings are typical of a worn engine. 100 PSI is actually the border line where you will start to notice performance deteriorating a little at a time. 90 is to the point you will have intermittent skipping going on at best, below 90, well that's pretty much hopeless, appropriate attention required. Have you noticed anything that I've mentioned going on? If a retest shows valves are the likely cause, repair in that area should buy you a good many miles before it demands a rebuild. It won't be a powerhouse, and depends on how you need to use the truck.
I poured in a little engine oil into the plug holes and re-tested, readings went upto 130 psi which point towards rings and cylinder wall issues. I aint in the mood for rebuilding the engine so will have to live with it.
I havent had any performance issues with the truck at all apart from bad idling but she will sit at 50 all day on tarmac.
Once I install the electronic ignition and give the carb a service that should keep me going long enough to save for a 4BT.
Well, I decided to lubricate the o-ring on the compression tester in case it wasnt getting a good seal on the plug hole and redid the test .
This was about 12 hours after pouring some oil in the cylinder test.
118 psi
120 psi
115 psi
120 psi
115 psi
122 psi
I would say a better result?
Stu
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
M37UK wrote:Well, I decided to lubricate the o-ring on the compression tester in case it wasnt getting a good seal on the plug hole and redid the test .
This was about 12 hours after pouring some oil in the cylinder test.
M37UK wrote:Well, I decided to lubricate the o-ring on the compression tester in case it wasnt getting a good seal on the plug hole and redid the test .
This was about 12 hours after pouring some oil in the cylinder test.
118 psi
120 psi
115 psi
120 psi
115 psi
122 psi
I would say a better result?
Stu
If you have an accurate result here, there is a good bit of life left in it yet.
Get yourself a set of mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint the location of your TIC. If it comes from the side valve cover it is most likely valve train noise. If up by the fuel pump could be fuel pump or fuel pump drive cam issues.
What would the ticking noise most likely be caused by , tappets ??
Stu
Never heard this type of fuel pump make a ticking noise, only the GM type that utilizes a push rod.
If your valve adjustments are correct, more than likely it is a tappet slightly loose in its bore. With bore wear present, as the tappet is pushed upward by the cam lobe the wear allows it to flop sideways a little causing the tick. The amount of wear controls tick volume; I've heard them be so loud it almost sounded like a rod bearing.
Thanks guys,
wouldnt be the fuel pump anyway as I have an electric one.
I will leave the ticking noise for now and keep and eye (and ear) on the situation.
Stu
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
Fitting oversize lifters would best be done when completing a thorough rebuild. To do it properly, you would have to rebore the oval holes in order to make them round again.
Home
