M-37 power door locks?

[Joe]

Has anyone tried to install electric door locks on their M-37? I'd like to safeguard my M-37 but as you know they don't have keyed locks in the doors. You can lock the doors from the inside by pushing the door handles forward so the doors can be locked but not from the outside and I'd also like a keyed lock so that they stay locked until I want them unlocked. I've seen one M-35 that someone installed post office Jeep door handles with keyed locks on and I could do that but I like the look of the original Dodge door handles so I was wondering if it's possible to install electric door locks like those being installed with modern auto alarm systems. Ultimately I'd like to install an alarm system so if anyone has done that I'd like to hear about that too.

[cuz]

A pair of small electric solenoids that can insert a stop ping between the door and the rear frame will work well. You can insert a small key type electric switch either in the open or hidden to operate the lock pins.

[Joe]

I don't want to add a visible switch so I was thinking more along the lines of a wireless remote control. I'll probably locate some kind of alarm system (w/ remote) and use it to control the locks. But I thought I'd get the door locks installed and working first.

[Lifer]

I'm sure that it could be done without a lot of difficulty. Personally, I don't see the point in doing so. Lock or no lock, a determined intruder would not be deterred for very long. A simple pocket knife will provide ample access through the canvas top in 3 seconds flat.

[ZGjethro]

I second what Lifer said. I am more concerned with my co-workers messing with my truck now that they know it is keyless. I might put a hidden kill switch under the dash somewhere

On the other hand, wireless electric locks would deter an obvious break in on a busy street.

[cuz]

Locks only keep honest people honest.

Leave your wallet laying out in the open on your seat and lock your door and when a clown that wants your wallet walks by he will look around and if no one is watching he will do whatever it takes to access your wallet.

Door locks will keep the kids off the front seat.

I don't like relying only on a remote unit. When the truck battery dies, or the remote dies or the brain in the truck dies then you are stuck breaking in. It's not very difficult to hide a keyed electrical switch. They head of the switch that is visible is only the size of your thumb and is at most 3/32" high.

[HingsingM37]

I agree with Lifer &Cuz. As for theft of the truck, I have a battery switch:

http://www.g741.org/photogallery/main.p ... temId=5106

Although I don't think the average urchin would have a clue as to how to start/drive an M37. Levers, choke, switches? they would be most confused I installed the battery switch mostly to guard against somebody turning the ignition switch or lights on while on display.

[paul]

hide a key switch in line with your original switch and hide it , this is wat i have to do here to pas regulation

[Joe]

Oh, I plan on adding a battery disconnect and also thinking of adding a hydraulic line lock to lock the brakes on too. But I still want door locks to keep out the kids and non-professionals. As for cutting the top to get in, that's no different than any car with a convertible top but they all still come with door locks. I currently have a two convertibles and they stay locked when I'm not using them. Even if I leave the top down I lock the doors!

The biggest problem that a nearby MV owner has is kids getting in and playing with the switches and leaving things on and the batteries running down.

[UZIS9MM]

Joe,

Here's what I do with my truck when it needs to be locked. I roll up the door windows and lock the passenger side while I'm still in the cab. Then I leave the drivers side front window unsecured (no one realizes that the front windows can be unlocked and opened) and reach through into the cab via the front window and rotate the drivers door lever to the locked position, then close the front window. This and an electrical lockout has kept the riff-raff at bay for me.

This method might help until you get the locks that you want installed.

Kevin

[MSeriesRebuild]

Dan Pinkham has keyed locks on his M37, I don't recall how close to original the appearance is or where he got them from. They fit well, look great and functioned well as they were on the truck when it was here for the diesel engine installation years ago. I think he goes by DAP here on the forum. He can shed some light that would help you. Shoot him a PM.

[Glenn]

Vintage Power Wagons shows keyed door handles in their on line catalog. You'll really only need one. They are flat instead of arched, but are obviously quite simple to replace or swap if you wanted the original appearance for show.

[DAP]

I have them on my blue M37. They are chrome plated but could have been scuffed, primed and painted OD. They are a slightly different shape but not noticable. Also the square shaft was to long but I zipped off the extra length with a cutoff wheel. Screw holes line up perfect. I am very happy with them but I also have a keyed electric on/off switch that Charles installed so if kids do diddle with switches the battery is disconnected and can't be run down. I bought them locally in the early 90s.

Charles thank you for the shout out. It prompted me to haul the book off the dusty shelf and relive some neat memories.

Now I am going to take my life in my hands here - If you have a copy of the soft cover book "Dodge M37 Restoration Guide" by David Ahl and turn to page 74 you will see the door lock article along with measurements and a picture of the handle. I wrote this article for Military Vehicles Magazine when I was recovering from having 20% of my lung removed so if you don't like my writing I can blame it on the pain meds - hahahaha. Seriously though the picture might be worth the look. I don't know if it is legal to scan the picture and post it on this forum. I got my copy for free since some of my articles were reprinted in the book and NO I won't sell it for $250 because it is a nice memento. Plus I get a chuckle seeing my name with the article. So if you hate the book or have other negative opinions of it I will disrespectfully disagree and simply say that those articles with the author of Daniel Pinkham were well written - LOL. OK now I will go back in my hole in the ground (because I keep finding M37 parts I can sell to finance my current M37 redo project - notice I didn't say restoration or rebuild - hehehehe).

Generic disclaimer - for those of you who do not know me - I can state that no matter what, I have fun! Though a very serious person, I don't ever want to take my self to seriously. There are to many M37's in the world to enjoy!

[Master Yota]

Sounds to me as though swapping over to the PW keyed locks would be the easiest - followed by the open window trick (I'm too short to make that work - last thing I need is fall off the running board and out into traffic!). I've seen universal electric door lock kits at Princess Auto (similar to Harbour Freight in the US) for about 60 bucks. I'm sure that if they can be retrofitted into a 30 year old vehicle, they can be reto'd into a 50 year old M37.

A battery swich is a good idea for the rest of the truck, but I would wire the door locks directly with a fuse. When parking or storing the truck for long periods, leave the front window unlocked...

[Drew M.]

I have a keyed door handle on my M37 driver door. I have a spare ready to go that was glass beaded to remove the chrome, primed, painted o.d. and had the shaft cut down to M37 length - $15 plus shipping.

Dave Palmatory (Midnight Engineering - New Castle DE) put 12 volt power windows and door locks on his M37. He used universal kits from a hot rod supply source. I was just looking for a website for him, but didn't see anything. I hope he is still in business. If you are interested, I can shoot him an email on your behalf. He used to be very active on the Big-E - but that was a long time ago.