
Generator regulator
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Generator regulator
Any body have any idea what regulators are going for these days ? I have the option of a delco or auto lite. Which is better ? 

52 M38
53 CJ3A
53 M37
53 CJ3A
53 M37
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Re: Generator regulator
If you are talking about the old coil type regulators, I wouldn't want it at any price. The solid-state units are way better, last longer, and are pretty much trouble free. We have those for $110, plus shipping.52m38 wrote:Any body have any idea what regulators are going for these days ? I have the option of a delco or auto lite. Which is better ?
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Like Charles said! If you want to retain the mechanical regulator for some particular reason, it really doesn't matter which brand you choose. They are basically electromagnetically controlled switches that work on the same principle and use the same elements. The only variable might be the consistency of the factories' individual quality control procedures.
"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
Mechanicals work quite well. They are easily adjusted and repaired. They have tech data and parts available. I have had mechanicals last me 20 plus years without any pain. In most malfunction cases it is only an issue of cleaning contacts.
The transistorized units are OK but no parts, tech data and warranty can turn that cheap modern innovation into a real money vacuum. The transistor units are also much less tolerant of short circuits and battery cable mixups.
Ask for warranty terms before touching any transistor unit.
The transistorized units are OK but no parts, tech data and warranty can turn that cheap modern innovation into a real money vacuum. The transistor units are also much less tolerant of short circuits and battery cable mixups.
Ask for warranty terms before touching any transistor unit.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
Or you can just build a "Y" plug adapter for # 27 so you get power to the spider and the voltmeter. Most volt meters available today are the rubber Packard type connector. Also be sure to run a seperate ground from the voltmeter to the firewall or main part of dash.
The reason for the switch is Wire # 8 & # 9 for the amp meter are connected to the regulator plug and in the mechanical regulator they are connected to the amp meter shunt. The transistor unit does not have that amp meter shunt in it so wires # 8 & # 9 loose their purpose.
The reason for the switch is Wire # 8 & # 9 for the amp meter are connected to the regulator plug and in the mechanical regulator they are connected to the amp meter shunt. The transistor unit does not have that amp meter shunt in it so wires # 8 & # 9 loose their purpose.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.