Rebuild progress all in one thread

[BIGmansM]

What brake setup are you running front and rear?

[Josh]

Chevy dual circuit MC, with stock front disc brakes, and www.greatlakeoffroad.com disc conversion in the rear. Uses 70s 3/4 ton chevy calipers, pads, and rotors.

[Master Yota]

Chevy dual circuit MC, with stock front disc brakes, and www.greatlakeoffroad.com disc conversion in the rear. Uses 70s 3/4 ton chevy calipers, pads, and rotors.

I have the same setup to install on my rear 14 bolt. If you want to save some cash on the calipers, Monte Carlo front calipers will fit the brackets from GLO... They are the same size caliper, and use the same size pads as the 3/4 ton units as well. The only difference is the piston is a touch smaller and they use a metric banjo bolt to attach the brake line. The savings is in the cost. 3/4 ton calipers (here) were about $30 bucks each with a $25 dollar core charge. The Monte calipers were $25 each with a $3 dollar core charge. Since I didn't have any cores readily available, I figured I'd save the 50 bucks...

[Josh]

rebuilt the blowers with new seals, repacked the bearings, new oil, and new couplers. Turn like they are brand new. Also threw some paint on them so they match the rest of the underhood, and sanded out the fins so they blend with the finned valve covers:









Ordered some more parts as well. Wiring harness will be here tomorrow, as well as the rest of the stuff to do the hydraulic clutch. Ordered fuel rail stock, and injectors. Got a set of eight 83 lb/hr injectors. That should be enough fuel to make at least 7-800 ponies Once those get here, I can install them in the plenums, and bolt the blowers and plenums down permanently! Then it is full speed ahead with the blower belt drive setup.

[Josh]

Got the harness today. EXCELLENT piece. I work daily with automotive grade wiring where I work and this is some of the best quality I have seen. I think the wire is either SXL or GXL, either of which being a very good grade of wire. The fuse box is completely waterproof, all of the wires have rubber weatherpack seals on them, and the cover clips on with a multiple rib seal. It seals so well it actually takes a few seconds for the air to seep out from the seals so you can push the cover down completely.

Wire leads are very generous. I didn't measure, but they have to be at least a 20' run on each. The fuses are divided up into 3 separate main circuits, with it being 3 circuits on two leads, and 4 on the third instead of one common bus like what is normally done. This is a nice feature, as it will allow me to taylor how the power is fed into the fusebox. They can be hardwired to B+, or, switched through the key, or, relay operated NC, or relay operated NO.

It also has 4 relayed high amperage circuits, a pair of 40 amp relayed circuits, and a pair of 20 amp circuits. Came with 4 high vibration waterproof resetting circuit breakers for those. Included a nice 8 gauge 140 amp alternator lead, a bunch of terminals and lugs and leads, and a 100 amp primary fuse, as well as brackets, zip ties and hardware to mount it to the cab. Finally, they included a sample of their powerbraid wire loom, which I am impressed with and will most likely order to do all of my wire wrapping.

[Josh]

This is a normal 15 lb/Hr 2 liter 4 cylinder car injector. fuel comes out the two little holes:



This, is one of my new 83 lb/hr injectors for the truck:



Finally, let's compare the two side by side:



Fuel rail material:



self adjusting, remote mount reservoir clutch kit. thing out of the package laying in the box is the slave cylinder:

[Master Yota]

And who says big blocks aren't thirsty!?

Very cool...

[powerwagontim]

And who says big blocks aren't thirsty!?

Very cool...

I am thinking he might want to run garden hose for fuel lines!
Tim

[Master Yota]

And who says big blocks aren't thirsty!?

Very cool...

I am thinking he might want to run garden hose for fuel lines!
Tim

And install a large safe under the seat to store all the gas money in...

[HingsingM37]

Josh,

I have not checked out your thread in a while, everything is looking good. You should be proud of your workmanship. Those blowers look sharp. You are going to have a beast when it is all done.

Just a reminder, make sure you have adequate vehicle insurance on your work in progress to cover the money and time invested. Most folks don't think about this until the wheels are on the pavement. If a storm or something else happens you may find your homeowners policy would not come close to covering your investment in labor and parts. I was surprised to find out how reasonable coverage was on my truck. Protect your investment

[Master Yota]

Josh,

Just a reminder, make sure you have adequate vehicle insurance on your work in progress to cover the money and time invested. Most folks don't think about this until the wheels are on the pavement. If a storm or something else happens you may find your homeowners policy would not come close to covering your investment in labor and parts. I was surprised to find out how reasonable coverage was on my truck. Protect your investment

That is sound thinking and an excellent idea. At the very least, a storage policy is a good idea, and usually cheap as well...

[Josh]

yeah, I planned to insure for declared value. Will cost a bit more than letting them look it up and base it on OEM value, but if something happened to it that wasn't covered, I dont think I would get out fo bed for a week.

[Josh]

got some work done on the clutch. Made a bracket that comes off the PTO port on the trans for the slave to pull off of for the fork. 3/8" base plate (had the steel laying around) then 1/8" plate boxed into a triangular structure. Just clears the floorboard and keeps the slave in good alignment. I need to take the fork out and weld a chunk of steel into the hole with a countersink into it as the ball that came on the slave is too small and fits right through the current hole. I looked for the metal part that fits into the hole OEM but I can't seem to find the one I had and they can be a PITA to find in the boneyard.

looking up:



looking down from drivers seat:



drivers frame rail view:



passenger's side view:

[Josh]

finished the slave mount, but didn't take any pics of it. It fits nice. Got to make the master cylinder mount next. I made a new lever arm for the clutch pedal shaft that reverses the direction so I can mount the new MC behind the pedal, instead of in front of it.

Been working on the EFI system, as well as the superchargers. Got in the last few parts I was wating on to install the blowers once and for all. Made my fuel rails, drilled out some nuts and welded them to the intakes for injector bosses, and then made little T shaped mounts to hold the rails to the manifolds. they BARELY cleared one another!!







and, all installed:









See, just fit past one another... Whew!!



Pointing right down the port throat at the intake valve:







Need to build a backing plate for the charge pipes from teh turbos to weld to, as well as to tie the two blowers together to give them more strength:





fittings just clear, and come out side by side. There will be two Walbro GLS392 pumps, good to 500 HP each on an EFI system, with duel regulators, and dual feeds and returns. She's gonna have one SERIOUS fuel system!



Scrounged a new boneyard yesterday and found some GM LS1 car coils. Not as fire breathing as the LS2 truck coils, but, they have no trouble lighting cylinders under 30 PSI of boost, so they should do just fine for what I plan to do with them. Got a decent deal on them too. I plan on mounting them upside down beside the block. Will modify the mounting backet to bolt to the motor mount and the bellhousing, then it's as simple asrunning them up to the plugs, and they should just clear the fender splash pans.

[Master Yota]

Ridiculous......Absolutely frickin' ridiculous....


I can't wait....