Power Steering Install

[BIGmansM]

Hey Guys,
I'm new to the forum, but I have been lurking around for a long time. After seeing that Twin Turbo, Twin supercharger build I decided this was probably the place for me.

I want to add power steering to my 52 power wagon. Pictures help me alot more than words. I was hoping someone could show me some detailed pictures of how to install power steering to these trucks.

The truck I bought is powered by a Chevy 350 engine and an sm420 transmission

[Tom @ Snake River]

Go to my web site at www.snakeriver4x4.com and look at the power steering section.
With a Chev 350, you will have to figure out how to mount the power steering pump, ( it may have to be raised) and when you do get the box in, then getting the proper hose fittings.
I can help you with all the parts and pieces if need be.

[Cal_Gary]

Welcome Big Man! You mentioned the Power Wagon-a lot of the components interchange with the M37 but there are a ton of differences between a PW and an M37. Anyway, glad to have you with us!
Gary

[hbb]

I GOT THE 350 CHEV BUT WHAT THE HECK IS A SM420 TRANSNISSION.MAYBE I WILL BE LEARNING SOMTHING!
HB

[Josh]

the tranny previous to the SM465. Minor differences between the two IIRC.

[Master Yota]

Hijack!

SM420 - 2wd unit usually found in Gm trucks from about '48-1970-ish... 7.02:1 bull low first gear - short overall length (around 10") and strong, but shifts like a 50 years old transmission. Syncro'd in 2nd to 4th, and is a popular swap for jeeps and short wheel base vehicles. Advance adapters has adapters to mate it up to just about any married tcase, or it can be used in a divorced application.
As pointed out, its the predecessor to the SM465 - used soley by GM from about 1967 to 1991 in the truck line. It was replaced by the NV4500 5spds (found in 3/4 and up trucks) and some other Getrag model 5spds when they started using a lighter duty manual trans in the half ton trucks.

Hijack over...

[hbb]

Yep I thought I would learn something and I did!
Thanks for the insight guy's
hb

[Tom @ Snake River]

That's right ! If your talking a 52 PW instead of a M-37, then you will need a differant bracket, ect. Tom @ Snake River

[BIGmansM]

Well the truck I have is an M37.
But, because of the Chevy engine swap, I'm pretty sure my power steering pump choices are limited to that engine.

Now, what is everyone using for a Power steering rack? I am trying to find some detailed pictures of the swap to help me along the way.

Hey, HB. What transmission do you have in your truck? I want to get rid of the sm420 and swap something else that will allow for some more speed!

Tom, I've seen your site. And thanks for the referral. I wish you had more pictures of all the work involved.

[Josh]

there are a few ways of doing the steering. Easiest is a 70's dodge reverse rotation box, found on the W200 and bigger trucks with the linkage arm type steering. Will fit right onto the stock pitman arm. Not all 70's Ddoges had the linkage type, the ones that dont have a standard rotation box. To tell the difference, the shafts should rotate in opposite directions on the box you want. I.E. when you turn the box input CW, the output or secotr shaft should turn CCW.

This is the system I am using. Yoda (Ray) is is using a crossover type with a caddy steering box, but that will only work on Dana axles where the tie rod is in the front, instead of the back.

The Chevy PS pump should be a genaric Saginaw unit, very, very similar to the ones used by Ddoge, as Saginaw made boxes and pumps for the Dodge trucks as well. I wouldn't be surprised if the inputs and outputs as well as mounting brackt holes were the same.

As far as speed increases, An axle swap or gear upgrade are better ways of getting more speed than an overdrive trans (not to mention better brakes), as most OD transmissions are based on older 4 speed designs, with the 5th gear added as an afterthought later, so they are generally longer and heavier. This makes fitting it between the engine and the stock transfer case difficult. The other issue is that the stock axles and T case will not like turning more than 3500 RPM or so. You think they like to leak oil when properly maintained... try running V8 power and speed through them, tehy REALLY start to leak then!

[Master Yota]

Pretty accurate info - my box is actually an 2wd. F20 unit from the 70's. The location of the tie rod (wether behind the axle or infront) is rather unimportant when it comes to steering input. Where the drag link (link that goes from the box to the axle) hooks up is more critical. A steering box that has the drag link mount in front of the steering knuckle will steer backwards if the link is hooked up to the rear of the steering knuckle (on crossover steering equiped rigs anyway).

There are kits available to move the tie rod and drag link behind the axle for Dana 60 axles. Most fabricators don't do this though as the linkage needs room to move up and down as the suspension cycles, and usually the engine oil pan gets in the way.

As for pumps, anything will work - I'm using a toyota pump (about the size of a softball) and a remote resevoir setup. the only custom piece will be the high pressure hose, and any hydraulic shop can fab one up in about 20 mins (needs a metric fitting on one side and a taper fitting on the other). A stock GM pump from a car or truck will operate the box just fine - spend some time in the wreckers looking at brackets and find a set that locates the pump as close to the engine as possible.

Another option for a steering box would be the unit from an 80-85 Toyota 4x4 truck. They swing the right way, have a separate intermediate mount that goes between the frame and box and have a similar stud style mount for the stock M37 linkage (I don't know if they are same size ball stud or not, but the toyota stud can be pressed out and perhaps the pitman reamed to take the M37 stud).

Rack and Pinion style steering WILL NOT work on a solid axle...

Isn't it just lovely to have too many choices?

[BIGmansM]

Pretty accurate info - my box is actually an 2wd. F20 unit from the 70's. The location of the tie rod (wether behind the axle or infront) is rather unimportant when it comes to steering input. Where the drag link (link that goes from the box to the axle) hooks up is more critical. A steering box that has the drag link mount in front of the steering knuckle will steer backwards if the link is hooked up to the rear of the steering knuckle (on crossover steering equiped rigs anyway).

There are kits available to move the tie rod and drag link behind the axle for Dana 60 axles. Most fabricators don't do this though as the linkage needs room to move up and down as the suspension cycles, and usually the engine oil pan gets in the way.

As for pumps, anything will work - I'm using a toyota pump (about the size of a softball) and a remote resevoir setup. the only custom piece will be the high pressure hose, and any hydraulic shop can fab one up in about 20 mins (needs a metric fitting on one side and a taper fitting on the other). A stock GM pump from a car or truck will operate the box just fine - spend some time in the wreckers looking at brackets and find a set that locates the pump as close to the engine as possible.

Another option for a steering box would be the unit from an 80-85 Toyota 4x4 truck. They swing the right way, have a separate intermediate mount that goes between the frame and box and have a similar stud style mount for the stock M37 linkage (I don't know if they are same size ball stud or not, but the toyota stud can be pressed out and perhaps the pitman reamed to take the M37 stud).

Rack and Pinion style steering WILL NOT work on a solid axle...

Isn't it just lovely to have too many choices?

So the best way to go for me is the Toyota F20 steering box? to hook up to my stock front axle setup?

[Master Yota]

Pretty accurate info - my box is actually an 2wd. F20 unit from the 70's. The location of the tie rod (wether behind the axle or infront) is rather unimportant when it comes to steering input. Where the drag link (link that goes from the box to the axle) hooks up is more critical. A steering box that has the drag link mount in front of the steering knuckle will steer backwards if the link is hooked up to the rear of the steering knuckle (on crossover steering equiped rigs anyway).

There are kits available to move the tie rod and drag link behind the axle for Dana 60 axles. Most fabricators don't do this though as the linkage needs room to move up and down as the suspension cycles, and usually the engine oil pan gets in the way.

As for pumps, anything will work - I'm using a toyota pump (about the size of a softball) and a remote resevoir setup. the only custom piece will be the high pressure hose, and any hydraulic shop can fab one up in about 20 mins (needs a metric fitting on one side and a taper fitting on the other). A stock GM pump from a car or truck will operate the box just fine - spend some time in the wreckers looking at brackets and find a set that locates the pump as close to the engine as possible.

Another option for a steering box would be the unit from an 80-85 Toyota 4x4 truck. They swing the right way, have a separate intermediate mount that goes between the frame and box and have a similar stud style mount for the stock M37 linkage (I don't know if they are same size ball stud or not, but the toyota stud can be pressed out and perhaps the pitman reamed to take the M37 stud).

Rack and Pinion style steering WILL NOT work on a solid axle...

Isn't it just lovely to have too many choices?

So the best way to go for me is the Toyota F20 steering box? to hook up to my stock front axle setup?

Best way? I don't know, that depends on personal preference, the Dodge box works, and so does the Toyota box, and good results have been accomplished with each setup. It will ultimatley end up being based on your fab skills and the access you have to parts and such. I know that a big press is needed to press the ball stud out of the Toyota pitman arm (mine came out around 60 tons - different project though....)

Weigh the pros and cons of each setup and visually compare them if you can, then go with your gut instinct...

Hope this helps...

[BIGmansM]

Pretty accurate info - my box is actually an 2wd. F20 unit from the 70's. The location of the tie rod (wether behind the axle or infront) is rather unimportant when it comes to steering input. Where the drag link (link that goes from the box to the axle) hooks up is more critical. A steering box that has the drag link mount in front of the steering knuckle will steer backwards if the link is hooked up to the rear of the steering knuckle (on crossover steering equiped rigs anyway).

There are kits available to move the tie rod and drag link behind the axle for Dana 60 axles. Most fabricators don't do this though as the linkage needs room to move up and down as the suspension cycles, and usually the engine oil pan gets in the way.

As for pumps, anything will work - I'm using a toyota pump (about the size of a softball) and a remote resevoir setup. the only custom piece will be the high pressure hose, and any hydraulic shop can fab one up in about 20 mins (needs a metric fitting on one side and a taper fitting on the other). A stock GM pump from a car or truck will operate the box just fine - spend some time in the wreckers looking at brackets and find a set that locates the pump as close to the engine as possible.

Another option for a steering box would be the unit from an 80-85 Toyota 4x4 truck. They swing the right way, have a separate intermediate mount that goes between the frame and box and have a similar stud style mount for the stock M37 linkage (I don't know if they are same size ball stud or not, but the toyota stud can be pressed out and perhaps the pitman reamed to take the M37 stud).

Rack and Pinion style steering WILL NOT work on a solid axle...

Isn't it just lovely to have too many choices?

So the best way to go for me is the Toyota F20 steering box? to hook up to my stock front axle setup?

Best way? I don't know, that depends on personal preference, the Dodge box works, and so does the Toyota box, and good results have been accomplished with each setup. It will ultimatley end up being based on your fab skills and the access you have to parts and such. I know that a big press is needed to press the ball stud out of the Toyota pitman arm (mine came out around 60 tons - different project though....)

Weigh the pros and cons of each setup and visually compare them if you can, then go with your gut instinct...

Hope this helps...

You are talking about that W200 Dodge steering box that Josh was talking about correct?

I just want to try and get power steering onto this truck. I plan on driving it frequently and in the city. It's going to be more enjoyable with the power steering

Rockauto.com has almost any part from any car ever. I could probably find the steering boxes on their site.
About $156 plus a core unit if u want the dodge steering box

But I found this seller on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/36-05175 ... ccessories
He is saying that the Dodge W200 steering box is the same for many other more popular vehicles. That would make finding the part in a junk yard alot easier.

Is this the correct unit that you guys are referring to? But, I need the reverse rotation box. So how can I dentify if these steering boxes are reverse or not?

[Master Yota]

I'm familiar with the toyota box.

The best way to tell if it will work for you is to stare at your current linkage while some one moves the steering wheel back and forth. Once you understand how the linkage works, then you can visualize how the box you need must move to accomplish the same thing.

The stock M37 box swings clockwise to turn to the left.

The toyota box swings clockwise to turn to the left. The only Toyota power box that works in this manner is from an 80-85 4x4 truck (Not Landcruiser or 2wd).

The Toyota box is probably available from rockauto, but the mount between the box and the toyota frame probably isn't. That part would need to be sourced from an auto wrecker (if it can be made to work with the M37 frame). Once the box is mounted you'll need to adapt the coloum over to it. The toyota box uses both a rag joint, and a ujoint to couple to the splined shaft on the box. This is handy as it gives you several options when designing a coupler to mate up to the stock M37 coloum (which goes directly into the steering box with no coupler). Get these parts from the wrecker while your searching for the mount.

After the coloum connection is made, its time to make the pitman arm work with the stock linkage - hence removing the ball stud (most likely they are not the same size) from both pitmans, and swapping the M37 stud into the toy arm. Not a big deal, but a challenge none-the-less.

This isn't an afternoon swap no matter what direction you choose (pun intended ) A steering box is under a fair amount of strain, so consider the construction of your mounts and build them as strong as possible.

These trucks aren't too bad for city driving - getting the truck rolling a little first makes it much easier to turn. Also, running the front tires at full pressure makes turning easier as well with the factory setup.

Most manual steering vehicles run a little less castor angle to make turning the tires easier. Power steeing might make the truck twitchy to drive at highway speed.

Hope this helps...