Dash panel knock out

[m-11]

I have a question about the knock out panel left of the glove box. Is this for the heater kit? If so, once the panel is removed, does the defroster vent cover up the hole? Bubba done knock out the panel and mad a mess of the hole so I was wondering how to cover it up without having to weld in a patch. If the defroster comes through the opening than problem is solved.

[Carter]

The defroster duct does mount over the hole.

[Gerry]

I removed my heater. Whats the best way to fill the hole?
Thanks

[MSeriesRebuild]

I removed my heater. Whats the best way to fill the hole?
Thanks

Plasma cut a sheet metal patch panel to fit the opening and weld or braze it in place, a rather simple manuever. If you tig it in neatly, you could leave it as is, (depends on the finished appearance you desire) or you can carefully grind the weld smooth and finish off with a skim of body filler, prime, sand, and paint.

[Gerry]

Thanks Charles
Dont have a plasma cutter. Anyone take theirs out and want to get rid of it?
Thaanks,

[m-11]

Here's what I have to fix. The truck is 95% disassembled now.

[Josh]

Gerry, I'll be knocking mine out, as I have the heater kit to go into mine. PM me your adress and when I knock it out in a few weeks I'll stick it in an envelop and send it your way.

Josh

[k8icu]

I don't think the defrost kit is going to fix that mess of a hole. You might look into finding a hunk of dash to make a patch pannel from. Either that or cut the section square and welled a new panel in place and then cut a new circle out for the defrost vent if you are planing on putting a kit in.

[m-11]

k8icu,

I knew there would be more to do than just stick the defroster in to fix the problem. I already though about welding in a patch and cutting out a hole.

[powerwagontim]

Or leave it like that and call it battle damage! After you paint, you could paint some black around it to simulate the charred edges.
Amazing what folks will do. Proof that the Neanderthal still lives among us.
Tim

[8543bob]

THAT CAN BE FIXED PRETTY EASY, I DO LOTS OF FIBERGLASSING ON BOATS, IF YOU CAN GET TO THE BACK F/G IT FROM THE BACK AND FILL AND FAIR THE FRONT. IF YOU HAVE TO F/G FROM THE FRONT, RESIN, COLTH AND TOW OR THREE COATS OF RESIN THE SAND AND FAIR, I'M PRETTY SURE IT WILL BE A FIRST CLASS REPAIR.

[hbb]

Charles has the right idea on the correct fix. Do a little hammer and dolly work on the gapping ugly,then cut some sheet metal that will fit over the back side of the hole and tack it in place, or tig it in then grind.Then metal prep smooth it with bondo, primer ,putty and paint. But the prep work is what makes the job. Maybe clean up the hole with some cleaner angles. Sounds like a lot of work but really isn’t once you get going on it! Then you lock and load, go after the fool that made that mess and make him do a little jig for ya.
hb