tool talk: compressors!

[Josh]

All:

I need to buy a compressor, as I am getting close to the point where I will be doing the body work, and that little peashooter CrapsMan I have now aint gonna cut it... That, and I think I just about wore the bugger out sandblasting the frame with it!

I have a Northern Tool nearby, and, they seem to have the best prices on compressors all the way around. I would like to cap my TOTAL expenses at about ~800 bucks. Unfortunately, this rules out a really nice, 100% made in the USA Quincy compressor, because their cheapest model is ~1400 bucks, plus install...

I figure I have two choices, gas, or electric. They both have downsides... The gas is a gas, and as such, I have to put gas in it, and, it's noisy. however, it is light, and runs on gas, which is relatively cheap, and easy to get.

the electric is moch more involved, it's heavy, and, the BIG issue is I don't have 220 in my garage, which would mean trenching up my yard to bury a cable... no fun at all. the big plus is that it initially appears to be about $300 cheaper, BUT, by the time you factor in cables, shut off box, breakers, conduit, etc, you're probably about the same as the moe expensive gas unit. I have the 30 gallon tank off my crapsman compressor, so, I could run a line from a gas unit to the 30G tank to give myself more of a buffer on air capacity. The gas unit puts out 13.2 CFM@90 PSI, so, it's got plenty of volume for my blaster and paint gun.

The electric would be much quieter, and has even more capacity, but, wiring it in would suck, and moving it would suck as well (weighs 650 lbs).

A third option would be to get an electric, and make a 50' extension cord, and plug it into the circuit in my basement for the dryer, but, that seems really hokey in my book, and, I would hate having to string a big cable across my yard everytime I want to use the compressor, and, It probably wouldnt be a good idea to do that when its raining.

So, thoughts gents?

[Master Yota]

Pony up for the electric. Dad and I have an ancient 220v 5hp with a 60 gallon tank in the shop. Its about as reliable as a stone through a window, and its lack of portability prevent people asking to borrow it, or it migrating to somewhere it shouldn't be.

Another option - what about plumbing another 110v compressor into your 30 gal. tank? An old shop teacher of mine did this with two Craftsman compressor's feeding one tank. He ended up with something like 22cfm, wicked fast recharge time, and it only cost him a couple of C notes and some plumbing...

Might be something to consider?

[chris olson]

Back in the day when I was renting a house I did the long 8 Gauge extension cord to the basement door... after a while I would just leave it plugged in all the time. It was a real heavy rubber cabtire and it ran along the edge of a sidewalk.. eight years later when I finally moved I just pulled it up and threw it in the truck... Now at my new shop I have a 220 panel with lots of power and I have a really long welder extension...
I say get the 220 volt compressor.. It will be an investment that you will enjoy for a long time. Having 220 in the shop to run a welder is also way better..

[Nickathome]

This is the unit I bought when I needed something bigger;

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/air- ... or-3496111

Its only a single stage but puts out plenty of air for my needs. I got it for $550.00 plus tax when it went on sale last season. I mounted the unit to the floor myself but did pay an electrician (about $350) to install the 220 line as he had to run 80 feet of wire from our electrical box out to the garage. I don't fart around with electricity so it was worth it to me to pay a professional to do it. This one is made in Kentucky so if you want American made here you go.

Burying cable doesn't have to be a huge job so long as its not too far. You can dig a simple slit trench a few inches below the surface so long as its up to code, and then bury the cable inside of some conduit and you're done. If the code suggests a certain depth, you can rent a small one man ditch witch to do the job in a snap. I would not however jump a line off your dryer box. I mentioned that to the electrician when I was having my line installed and he said not a good idea as it would be too much of a draw on the line if you were running the dryer at the same time. Even if you only run one item at a time, it would still be inconvenient when the wife wants to use the dryer and you're running the compressor, or the other way around. You definitely want a dedicated 220 line.....

My opinion, and as was said "pony up" for the electric. You will be glad you did.

[T. Highway]

I bought a Two Stage Ingersoll Rand with cast iron pump and 60 gallon tank from the area rep as a scratch and dent floor model. The $1300 unit had been run once or twice in the showroom but the paint wasn't even burned off the outlet side of the heads. They threw in two oil change kits and extra filters for $850 cash and carry. (220 VAC / 5 HP)

[Josh]

hmm, never thought of that... could just bury the cable down a few inches, then yank it up when I'm ready to move so I dont get in trouble with the city or the inspectors... Code around here is 36" deep, plus PVC jacketing....

[Master Yota]

hmm, never thought of that... could just bury the cable down a few inches, then yank it up when I'm ready to move so I dont get in trouble with the city or the inspectors... Code around here is 36" deep, plus PVC jacketing....

Wow! 36" deep? You might as well go another foot and include some plumbing for a shop throne as well....

What they don't know - won't hurt you in the meantime. Unless you're shop burns down. Then claim ignorance. It was like that when you bought the house right? Right....

[Lifer]

It was like that when you bought the house right? Right....

Yep! I've bought two houses like that, now.
Besides, there ain't no way they could go 36" to bury a cable around here. They might make it to 8" before they hit solid granite, but that would be about it.

[Brett]

Or you could really piss off the misses and install the compressor in the basement, and just bury an airline out to the garage. that way you don't even have to listen to the compressor running while you're trying to concentrate in the garage.

Brett

[Nickathome]

hmm, never thought of that... could just bury the cable down a few inches, then yank it up when I'm ready to move so I dont get in trouble with the city or the inspectors... Code around here is 36" deep, plus PVC jacketing....

Why would you need to bury it 36 inches deep? I can see with waterlines in cold climates so you are below the freeze line, but electrical? Just don't get it.

[Josh]

cause some retard here decided that that is what meets code, and so thats what is required to be "legal". I'm thinking a nice, simple 6-8" trench and some PVC will do though, and I'll yank the sucker up when I go to move.

[Nickathome]

cause some retard here decided that that is what meets code, and so thats what is required to be "legal". I'm thinking a nice, simple 6-8" trench and some PVC will do though, and I'll yank the sucker up when I go to move.

That's usually how it works, the guy making the rules is seriously lacking in the common sense dept. To me 36" is ridiculous and unnecessary. Just make sure if you do it yourself, you keep that knowledge confidential.

[Master Yota]

cause some retard here decided that that is what meets code, and so thats what is required to be "legal". I'm thinking a nice, simple 6-8" trench and some PVC will do though, and I'll yank the sucker up when I go to move.

We were doing some foundation repair years ago, and we called the Natural Gas provider to find out where the line was buried. They came out and marked it, and assured us it was at least 18" in the ground. They assured us it was ok to use the equipment to remove the first 10" of soil and then locate it by hand afterward. We severed the line with the first 3" of teeth on hoe bucket. The bucket never touched the ground.

Building code might be fine on paper - but its seldom ever practical or even accurate, in reality.

[T. Highway]

The 36" depth was generally picked due to:
Most homeowners when they are planting trees and shrubs fail to call Diggers Hotline and most of the time the root ball is only 24". Typically if larger trees are planted by a landscape service the will call for a locate.
DISCLAIMER: Not valid in all states.

Master Yota, Around here when a utility is marked you should never machine dig closer than 18" - 24" on either side of the mark and any utility strikes will cost you dearly. (Fines and Repair)

I will agree that I've seen my share of incorrectly marked utilities and have had my share of gas, electric, and cable TV strikes.

I've also found some interesting homeowner wiring and gas line plumbing. I've seen rental properties that are two independent houses on adjacent lots and the previous owner had tapped the tenants power for his own benefit. This can be deadly to a new homeowner and also has caused me grief when suddenly I'm the cause of two houses loosing power.
I would recommend renting a Ditch Witch for a couple of hours and at least try to do it right, besides its fun running a diesel power tool.

This is only my TWO CENTS and I have 15+ years experience, running my own business as a licensed underground utility contractor.

[Master Yota]

Master Yota, Around here when a utility is marked you should never machine dig closer than 18" - 24" on either side of the mark and any utility strikes will cost you dearly. (Fines and Repair)

I agree. That is the method we've since adopted. The repair of the line in the above situation cost us nothing other than time. The Utility fessed up to the poor advice, and took care of the incedent.

Up here, I belive the minimum electrical code depth is 18" but it must be a metal jacketed line (like Tek cable), and the the sheath needs to be grounded. We used a ditch witch, when wiring the shop and then layed the cable. Before backfilling we layed a 2x4 over the cable for further protection. We've never had any issues with it since.