We got the front and rear drive shaft seals pulled and replaced on the transfer Saturday. The front was easy but the rear was a hoss. It took an hour and a half of peeling to get that seal out.
I'm going to do the top brake drum seal and the transmission input and wondered if anyone has a favorite seal puller they use or do you guys just pick the thing out with pliers?
On a happy note, so far, my transfer seals were modern military rubber seals with the felt rings so that is why there were no leaks before I started. But I just can't see putting the cab on top of it and then having to lay underneath to do these things later.
I used redi-sleeves and things are nice and tight now.
Seal puller recomendation?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Seal puller recomendation?
-John
Member of Dixie Division MVC
1953 USAF M37 wow, restored
1962 M151 Ford Production, on the rotisserie now
1953 USMC M37 w/w -in storage
1942 M6 Bomb Service Truck (sold to UK collector)
1967 M116A1 Pioneer Trailer
1968 M101A1 Trailer
S-89 Comm box
Member of Dixie Division MVC
1953 USAF M37 wow, restored
1962 M151 Ford Production, on the rotisserie now
1953 USMC M37 w/w -in storage
1942 M6 Bomb Service Truck (sold to UK collector)
1967 M116A1 Pioneer Trailer
1968 M101A1 Trailer
S-89 Comm box
- HingsingM37
- 1SG
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 3:43 am
- Location: North Carolina
I generally use a combo of tools, screwdrivers, a small slide hammer, small chisel, and a snap on "seal pick" I bought many years ago. The pick would have to be my favorite although it only works for seal the fit flush in a casing. If the seal is deep I use the slide hammer with the sheet metal screw trick. If it is flush with the case I pop it out with a screwdriver, the Snap -on pick, or awl. I usually get lucky.
PS, These won't work on some seals like the differential input seal #928114 if you are trying to pull out the whole metal case. I chisled, pulled, slide hammered for an hour the first time I did one. I finally chisled a slot wide enough for my 12" prybar and that worked.
PS, These won't work on some seals like the differential input seal #928114 if you are trying to pull out the whole metal case. I chisled, pulled, slide hammered for an hour the first time I did one. I finally chisled a slot wide enough for my 12" prybar and that worked.

David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
Lisle makes a great seal puller for under $10. Midway also makes a great shaft in seal puller for around $15.
A slide hammer with a screw works, as well as a hammer and flat screwdriver. Large seal picks work good too.
Small seal picks work best for soft seals and o-rings.
A slide hammer with a screw works, as well as a hammer and flat screwdriver. Large seal picks work good too.
Small seal picks work best for soft seals and o-rings.
Last edited by Captnsim on Sun Nov 29, 2009 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.