Brake, Fuel Line Armor.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:47 am

All the prefab lines that are available at NAPA in non-armored are also available with the spring armor. If you look in the brake line catalog, a store display of the armored lines is available just like the non-armored displays you commonly see, although I've never seen one of the displays in a NAPA store. Usually any armored line is available over night from distribution centers.

The spring armor is also available in bulk length just line the tubing, for making up any length custom lines.

Spring armor can certainly have an adverse effect if allowed to retain mud for an extended period, rust and corrosion will soon become factors. They are also famous for holding crud if used in areas where oil leaking is an issue as dirt and dust is attracted like a magnet. Makes for a real mess that's tough to clean without a steam jenny.

My personal opinion is that in most cases, it really is not worth a lot. I've seen many lines crushed closed that had spring armor on them, so it does not successfully help in significant impact situations. Another opinion, metal lines do not rub against objects causing abrasion damage when installed and secured properly. If lines are rubbing against something, the simple fact is they are not secured properly using the correct type of clips, etc. Metal brake lines will stand the normal abuse they receive in service usually without damage. If the abuse is such that a guard is thought to be needed, some type of custom shielding is far more reliable at offering protection against line damage than the spring that will simply get squished or jerked off along with the line in certain situations. In asking our customers about whether they desire armored lines and discussing pro's and con's; it boils down to this, some just like the appearance of spring armored lines. Appearance is far and away the biggest factor. Turns out the actual protection it may offer sometimes, well that just doesn't amount to much in the minds of most people.

cuz · Post by **cuz** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 1:37 pm

We all have our opinions. The abrasion I referred to was items finding their way into contact with the line that were not part of the truck. Happens a lot off road. They get kicked up into tight spots where lines are located and get stuck there and move around while the truck is moving. You can build an awful lot of shields trying to protect all that plumbing. Charles was dead on when he said it is the owner's choice. The owner of an MV that can afford to farm out the restoration would most likely not be having a driver built.

I find it interesting that this topic had gotten to page 2. As was mentioned earlier one man's trash is another's treasure. Again each to his own poison.

M-Thrax · Post by **M-Thrax** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:50 pm

If your just now having to replace your lines on your 40-50 year old vehicle I think the point is moot on which last longer

Captnsim · Post by **Captnsim** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:06 pm

Not really.
Longevity of the lines (as well as the whole vehicle in my view) is more due to proper use, maintenance, and storage then anything else.
Leave your stuff dirty, and outside. In the sun and rain. Add in some rough use, followed by neglect....Soon you will have a rusty, scaly, clunker. Regardless of what it's made off.

vtdeucedriver · Post by **vtdeucedriver** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:08 pm

Thanks for the info on the NAPA lines. For me I am a purist, my M37 will never see mud from 4 wheeling as it will be loaded with equipment for a display.

I will need to pick up another one at a later date..........OR start building the other frame and axles I have!!

M-Thrax · Post by **M-Thrax** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:14 pm

Captnsim wrote:Not really.
Longevity of the lines (as well as the whole vehicle in my view) is more due to proper use, maintenance, and storage then anything else.
Leave your stuff dirty, and outside. In the sun and rain. Add in some rough use, followed by neglect....Soon you will have a rusty, scaly, clunker. Regardless of what it's made off.

Sure like the way the military or Natl Guard were sticklers for doing this with their vehicles, I'm sure your 37 sat out in the mud,snow & rain for 20+ years before it went to surplus and many more years after that before you got it

Captnsim · Post by **Captnsim** » Sun Nov 29, 2009 8:56 pm

Yup and the old girl shows it too.

Sal · Post by **Sal** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 6:30 am

In my opinion I think most of the damage was done after they left service. My brake lines, MC and wheel cylinders were all leaking when I get her. I have no idea how the guy I got it from had it on the road.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:01 am

Well I have an extreme example to share that I've often wondered about:
Since brake lines rot from the inside out, wouldn't the armored spring keep one from popping open in an emergency stop application? I know, if your lines are that old they need to be replaced anyway (and that's still on my "to do" list.

Just a thought,
Gary

cuz · Post by **cuz** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:15 am

They usually do not burst suddenly. The pin holes appear and puddles form and the pedal gets soft. Most folks catch those symptoms early on and repair it. If I suspect a corrosion issue with brake lines I do not wait for the leak. I change them right then.

Captnsim · Post by **Captnsim** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:48 am

Cal_Gary wrote:Well I have an extreme example to share that I've often wondered about:
Since brake lines rot from the inside out, wouldn't the armored spring keep one from popping open in an emergency stop application? I know, if your lines are that old they need to be replaced anyway (and that's still on my "to do" list.

Just a thought,
Gary

Up here in New England they don't get the chance to rot from the inside out. Salt makes sure it's the opposite.
I also highly doubt the spring armor offers any protection from a burst line as most breaches of line integrity are quite small. It's purpose is really just to keep thrown up rocks from denting/crushing the line.

M-Thrax · Post by **M-Thrax** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 12:44 pm

Heres a extreme brake line
This came off my 1969 M35a2 which came from Michigan ( nice and salty roads) when I went to change out this line it broke just as soon as I put some pressure on it with the wrench, whats funny is both 5/16" unarmored lines were rotted like this and the six 1/4" armored lines look good to go

[img][img]http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/42148/2679116160033732824S600x600Q85.jpg[/img][/img]

cuz · Post by **cuz** » Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:46 pm

That's a common occurrence when the tube has rusted to the nut. I always try soaking those with PB Blaster for a while then break the nut loose while holding the tube with a pair of pliers and as soon as the nut breaks loose at the threads I start working the nut back and forth until it frees itself from the tube. That break can happen on a light surface rusted line which otherwise would have been fine to keep in service. Trick is patience.

M-Thrax · Post by **M-Thrax** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 3:42 am

No Wes
re read my post
I know how to take off old brake lines
"light surface rusted line "??
Did you not see my photo??this was so rotted that as soon as I started to turn the nut the pipe just snapped., If I had tried putting pliers to the tube it would only have just crushed it. I could have soaked it for a year in Blaster and the same thing would have happened, patience had nothing to do with this failure

cuz · Post by **cuz** » Tue Dec 01, 2009 6:56 am

My comment was general and was not a specific reply to your photo. It was meant to point out for all that not only rotted tubes can break the way your broke but reasonably solid tubes. I didn't say anything about your capabilities. Yes, I saw your photo and yes it was obviously a very brittle and rotted tube.