Drivers door removal

[russcal]

Hiya, all!

I need to remove my drivers door due to the upper hinge being cracked and causing the door to sag... so what's the preferred method?

1. Take pins out of hinges?
2. Unbolt door from hinges and then unbolt hinges from "A" piller?

Thanx in advance!

Russ
Proud son of Rose and Wes

1953 XM152

[Lifer]

If you just remove the hinge pins, you'll only have half as much work to do when realigning the door after replacing the cracked hinge.

[Carter]

Lifer knows what he is talking about, carefully drive the pins out. I have found that removing the pins is the easiest but you might need some help to hold the door when doing it that way.

[russcal]

Thanx, Lifer and Carter!

I just wanted to be certain before I started swingin' metal about!

I'll douse it liberally with some Liquid Wrench and give it a try.

Thanx again for the advice,

Russ

[m-37Bruce]

All of the above, you will need a second pair of hands fer sure!
Before re-installing, sand and coat the pins w/ some type of lube, I also used a stout wooden block a hammer. (paint after installing)
While your doors off, go thru and lube all the mechanisms.
[URL=http://good-times.webshots.com/pho ... .jpg[/img][/url]

Hope this helps some?

[Brett]

A trick I learned a long time ago taking doors off in any kind of building, is always remove and replace the hinge pins with the door closed. that way you're not holding the weight of the door. this trick works well on an M37 as well. I've taken mine off and on by myself several times

Brett

[russcal]

Thanx again, all, for the advice!

I know the old trick of having a door closed, in the jamb, when removing or rehanging. But thats part of the problem... the upper hinge is cracking / tearing causing the rear of the door to sag. Right where the hinge transitions from flat to curved (right at the outside edge of the door) the metal was bent, and the years have caused it to start to fail.

When I first got the truck, I noticed the door sticking in the closed position, but hadn't noticed the crack. With the door misalignment growing worse, a little bit of careful examination and I found the problem.

After disassembly, I'll get my brother to weld it up for me, or, baring that, just get a new hinge.

Russ
Proud son of Rose and Wes

[m-37Bruce]

Is it the inside (cabin) or outside (door) I have a couple of spares, pm me your address.

[russcal]

Thanx again, gents!

Did a more careful examination today...

This leads to todays question... the part of the hinge that bolts to the "A" piller (cab side), is it supposed to be flat or does it have a curve to it, pointing forward when in place?

The passenger door has no damage to the hinges (that I know of!) and both upper and lower cabside pieces have a forward curve. The lower drivers side hinge is the same. However, the upper hinge cabside piece is bent to the rear (opposite of all the others). The door side piece is also seriously bent, and is the piece that is cracking.

So, I think the whole drivers side upper hinge is bolloxed!

Lastly, how replacable are the door mounted hinges? I see four large, flat headed rivets on the outside, and looking inside the door, it appears that some of the door internal structure actually covers the inside of the hinge and the mounting rivets.

Thanx again everyone... one of the best parts of working on my truck is all the good (and free!) advice and help I get here!

Russ
Proud son of Rose and Wes

[m-37Bruce]

Inside the pilar all eight nutz are tack'd/welded in place. Each cab mounted section/piece is curled forward. I will do some scrounging around for my spares, they are supposed to be all together.
Larry Sage sent me a pair last year as well, as I had miss-placed one set!