I need steering box help

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:07 pm

Has anyone rebuilt their steering box?
I have a new box and am transferring the guts of my old one to the new one because the it has a new sector shaft bearing.
Has anyone tried to drive out the bearing cup/race for the top bearing for the worm? looks like you need a curved punch. There are instructions for making a tool in the front of the powertrain manual.

I am stuck I bent a 1/4inch rod and flattened the end. I started to bang away on it but it just bent more and the cup/race just sat there.

Can you use some heat on the box outside to help loosen up the race/cup?
Is there an available tool like a curved cold chisel or something?

Any ideas would be a help.
Thanks

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:21 am

I replaced the entire box instead of rebuilding mine, so I'm no expert, but heating the outer casing should loosen up the bearing race so it can be removed.
Gary

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:38 am

Thanks Gary. That is my feeling also. I just got to find a better rod for making the punch. Check out the TM-9-8031-2 Power train body and frame
sect. 183 fig. 161 to see the what I am trying to do. Also in the same manual there is a special tool that can be made sec 11 fig 6.
I can get a new race from Sid Beck but I'm trying to save the old one.

MSeriesRebuild · Post by **MSeriesRebuild** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:22 am

The problem with the shop made punch is that it isn't heat treated. To achieve success, make one from 4140 alloy, then send it out for heat treatment. As far as applying heat to the outer casting, personally I don't think that is the best idea, permanent heat set in the housing could result as well as cracking if the heat isn't brought up gradually and cooled in the same manner. This is vitually impossible in achieving your goal as in your case, the heat needs to be only in a concentrated area. A good punch should do the job without heat, however if you are still having difficulty, the best way is to run a bead of weld around the interior of the bearing race itself, that will draw it away from its set in the housing and will likely almost fall out afterwards. Of course this will ruin the bearing cup, and since your goal is to save the cup, this method may not help in your case. Maybe the info will help someone else who is trying to salvage the housing as that is usually the issue at hand. More in line with your issue, cast takes heat very well, thus it is more inclined to heat up all over rather than being able to hold heat concentration in a localized area. With that being said, applying heat to the housing will also transfer heat to the bearing cup quickly. That results in the cup expanding right along with the housing and not bringing about the loosening effect on the cup that you are looking for. The heat will stand a very good chance of damaging the cup to some degree also which would cause issues later down the road and possibly ruin a good cone in the process.

The real story in your case I think is this; getting a good quality heat treated specialty punch will cost $$, using a heat source runs up cost also, and there will likely be some degree of frustration experienced before the cup gives up its location. In all honesty, you are likely better off to just get a new bearing cup, a bearing supply house or Sid as you mentioned and not auto parts sources will likely be your most economical source.

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:58 am

Thanks for weighing in on this topic Charles.
Sounds like heat isn't such a good idea after all. I do not want to wreck the old box as only the bushing for the sector shaft is bad. I think by the time a proper tool can be had I'll be better off just buying a new race.
I like a challenge and taking on the steering box is one of them. When I'm done I'll have a new understanding of another part of the truck.
Hey that's part of the reason it's a fun a hobby.

oldstuff · Post by **oldstuff** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 5:32 pm

How about making a puller to fit. Just some threaded rod and some tubing with a washer or two welded onto the end. The tubing should just fit outside of the bearing ,outside the box. The only tricky part would be a heavy washer to fit inside the box but pull on the bearing. May need a lathe for that part. Is there room inside the box?
Ray

rixm37 · Post by **rixm37** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 7:15 am

Hi Oldstuff. Well the problem is that the cup is inside the steering box in a recess just below the top where the column enters. There really is no way to to get to it. If you have the TM-9-8031-2 You can see a picture in the steering box repair section 183. Your idea is great but due to the structure of the box above the cup you can not get to it to place a washer. It's a tough one.
So I have now ordered a new race/cup. I think that is the easiest way to go as driving it in to my new box from the bottom is not anything like trying to get an old one out.