Hi all,
Doing the switch to DOT5. I can't remember for the life of me which way the large cylinder bore is supposed to face. Big to back, or big to front? All my new cylinders are in bags with no numbers, so I can't cross reference them.
FNG question, to be sure...
Just to add to the perpetual DOT 3 vs DOT 5 discussion: I live in a maritime environment. Lots of rain, mud, and salt. Lulu Belle is certainly no hangar queen. I go through a set of cylinders per year, roughly. DOT 3 leaks are a mess, and I usually have to deal with rust issues when replacing the cylinders. DOT 5 can't be worse.
Thanks much,
Dave
Wheel cylinder orientation?
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Wheel cylinder orientation?
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
I know that weather conditions on Kodiak are not the best in terms of vehicle preservation, Dave, but I'd think that changing your wheel cylinders every year is a bit excessive. I could understand winter temps, ice, snow, and salt taking a toll on your rubber flex lines, but not on your wheel cylinders. 

"PER ARDUA AD ITER"
Big to back, got it. Thanks M-Thrax.
Lifer- I certainly agree it's excessive. I haven't seen where anyone on this board has had the same issue. What appears to be happening is that the salt-laden moisture sits in between the outer boot and the outside of the piston. Of course everytime I actuate the brake, it drags that crap into the system. Once one cylinder fails, the rest aren't far behind. My cylinders are badly pitted, and have the crystals in 12-18 months of use. I've been thinking a lot about this, and I'm at a loss as to what else to do.
I was commuting 100 miles per week in all weathers, and was parking it in one of those "portable" tube and tarp shelters. I would bring it in to the hangar on weekend duty days to give it a good fresh water wash, and hit all the hinges, etc. with lubricant. I would do the lube PM at half the interval. I've suffered very little rust, as a result, it's just these damn brakes.
A couple things that have changed are that I am now able to keep the beast in the garage (my in-laws damaged my garage door enough to allow me to fit the truck in now
with an inch to spare. A blessing in disguise, I suppose), and I don't have to commute anymore. Just the weekend trips out to get firewood, etc. My reasoning is that, while I'm still going to have brine (essentially) intrusion, it won't be absorbed and circulated. But, the truck will be sitting idle more. A good periodic flush should take care of the pools that will probably accumulate.
Do you think I've missed something?
Thanks for the input...
Dave
Lifer- I certainly agree it's excessive. I haven't seen where anyone on this board has had the same issue. What appears to be happening is that the salt-laden moisture sits in between the outer boot and the outside of the piston. Of course everytime I actuate the brake, it drags that crap into the system. Once one cylinder fails, the rest aren't far behind. My cylinders are badly pitted, and have the crystals in 12-18 months of use. I've been thinking a lot about this, and I'm at a loss as to what else to do.
I was commuting 100 miles per week in all weathers, and was parking it in one of those "portable" tube and tarp shelters. I would bring it in to the hangar on weekend duty days to give it a good fresh water wash, and hit all the hinges, etc. with lubricant. I would do the lube PM at half the interval. I've suffered very little rust, as a result, it's just these damn brakes.
A couple things that have changed are that I am now able to keep the beast in the garage (my in-laws damaged my garage door enough to allow me to fit the truck in now

Do you think I've missed something?
Thanks for the input...
Dave
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
Re: Wheel cylinder orientation?
Hi Dave, You will want to check with the supplier of your new w/c to be sure the rubber parts used internally are compatible with silicone fluid. Some are now coming with specific instructions not to use silicone fluid because of rubber material incompatbility. Better to check first as you would have an even bigger mess if this were to come into play in an already frustrating situation.DaveO wrote:Hi all,
Doing the switch to DOT5. I can't remember for the life of me which way the large cylinder bore is supposed to face. Big to back, or big to front? All my new cylinders are in bags with no numbers, so I can't cross reference them.
FNG question, to be sure...
Just to add to the perpetual DOT 3 vs DOT 5 discussion: I live in a maritime environment. Lots of rain, mud, and salt. Lulu Belle is certainly no hangar queen. I go through a set of cylinders per year, roughly. DOT 3 leaks are a mess, and I usually have to deal with rust issues when replacing the cylinders. DOT 5 can't be worse.
Thanks much,
Dave
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Ray- Awesome idea! That ought to prevent the bad stuff from getting in. I like it a lot. I'll try it in two cylinders, and check them all in the spring to see if there is any difference. Thanks!
Charles- Good to hear from you. I will certainly check with the man tomorrow. He knows what I'm doing (he's the one who suggested I switch in the first place), and I seriously doubt he would ship me an incompatible set-up (I bought a new set of cylinders, and a MC from him for this job). It sure doesn't hurt to be aware of the situation though. Thanks!
Dave
Charles- Good to hear from you. I will certainly check with the man tomorrow. He knows what I'm doing (he's the one who suggested I switch in the first place), and I seriously doubt he would ship me an incompatible set-up (I bought a new set of cylinders, and a MC from him for this job). It sure doesn't hurt to be aware of the situation though. Thanks!
Dave
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB