Finally did it.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 6:14 pm

It took seven hours but we finally get the cab off my truck. The front two cab mount bolts took about two hours to remove. They where very rusted.

So now I have all this bodywork to do...the rust is more extensive than I had originally thought. I knew it was rusty and that's why I removed the cab, plus I can now get to the drivetrain.

My buddy brought his A frame to lift the cab. Naturally, while he was working I was taking pictures. One of these days he won't answer the phone when I call.....

Pics:

powerwagontim · Post by **powerwagontim** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:45 pm

HI John,
You did the right thing taking the cab off. My cab looked a lot like yours, and there is no way we could have ever done the thorough job we did if the cab was still in the frame.
Have fun!
I hope your friend brought the swingset back to his kid before junior missed it!
Tim

HingsingM37 · Post by **HingsingM37** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 6:10 am

Wow, I am having flashbacks. Good idea to pull the cab. Now you can really do it up right. I had my cab steel shot blasted then I welded in my new metal. If you have a place that does it reasonable near you I would recommend the shot blast to get the metal to the grey state and really clean. Mine had undercoat covered with mud and sand. The sand blast would not even cut the grunge. Good luck and enjoy.

k8icu · Post by **k8icu** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:01 am

You call that rust...Ha I laugh at your rust.....

Here look at my rust:

Of course I'm just trying to make you feel better by showing you what it could be. Yours looks very managiable and I'm sure you'll have a great truck when it's done.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Sun Jun 07, 2009 9:54 am

RUST....OMG!

Yeah, mine's not THAT bad, just more involved than I had suspected. I've been learning welding lately, so I'm ready to start cutting. I've got to document all of it and have a plan to replicate the important structures.

Jeep Panels Plus is still around, aren't they?

One lesson we learned the hard way (nearly in a very bad way) was making sure the straps used to lift are secure. I was crouching on the left side of the body, while it was lifted, pushing the driver's rear tire to help roll the chassis out from under it.

Suddenly I heard a POP and the body crashed down on the frame, bouncing off of my right side. The lifting strap holding up the side of the body next to me had worked off of the hook, and the whole thing fell. Luckily I was not underneath it, but beside it, and aside from some bruises on my right arm, I escaped injury.

Be sure your lifting rig is secure before you lift!!!! Yes, accidents can happen to you!!!!

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 6:11 am

I can relate-mine was rusted in the back corners, all under the windshield frame, etc. Hopefully you have the welding skills needed to repair it

Gary

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:10 am

I spent the last week chipping away at the bottom of my cab, trying to get an idea of how it was put together. It seems as if each piece of metal is in some way connected or related to some other piece of metal halfway across the bottom!

I cut away one small area so I could get a look behind it and whew!, what a mess.

Now I am stopped, trying to get a game plan sorted out to replace all the bad metal. I guess they didn't even prime the back sides of some of these pieces.

Question: Is the battery box welded to the floor or held on by the four bolts that secure the battery tray? I'm going to have to cut out most of this area and get a battery box and a cab floor. I had hoped to save the box that's no good either.

powerwagontim · Post by **powerwagontim** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:26 am

The battery box bolts to the floor. I may have a good one if you are looking for one.
Tim

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:09 pm

Ok, then the battery "tray" is part of the battery "box" and they are one assembly, which bolts to the floor with four bolts into the welded nuts underneath?

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 1:15 pm

Hi John,
The battery tray fits inside the box, and if I recall correctly, the same 4 box mounting bolts pass through both the tray and box on their way through the bottom of the cab.
Gary

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:28 pm

Ok. Those bolt heads are rusted away to nubs. I guess it's the grinder for that.

I'm gonna need a battery box for sure.

k8icu · Post by **k8icu** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 6:30 pm

I wonder if there would be a plastic battery box that one could addapt to replace the metal one. Would help keep corrosion down if the acid was contained in plastic.

refit1701 · Post by **refit1701** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 4:09 am

I'd be hesitant to give up the metal box. There could be a way to line the metal one with acid resistant plastic or something else.

Maybe undercoating or Rhinoliner or something similar. I know I don't want to have to do all this over again in ten years. But then I'll take better care of it than the previous owners did.

Post by **Cal_Gary** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 5:49 am

Might be easier to grind the nut ends off from the bottom side-as I recall, the bolt heads are recessed, but there is ample space from below to grind off the nuts then pull the entire box straight up.
Gary

knattrass · Post by **knattrass** » Tue Jun 16, 2009 8:19 am

We use the grinder to cut the box loose from the floor. The rubber grommets were long gone. We used a bead of 3M structural sealant around the inside of the box bottom for strength (no welding). We bought 2 marine grade hold downs with stainless steel parts from West Marine. We had to grind the plastic base/hold down to fit but it provides the necessary plastic tray(s). We also added a marine grade battery cutoff for longer storage.