Home I've waited TEN YEARS to see a pair of turbochargers under that hood:
and.... Peek-a-boo... heh heh heh....
Rebuild progress all in one thread
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HingsingM37
- 1SG
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 3:43 am
- Location: North Carolina
Josh, The turbos are awesome. You are of course going to employ a drag chute to help stop this beast when it is finshed? 
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
David,
I can only imagine the power output this thing is gonna have. From 0-75mph, it should be un-freaking-believable!!
Got some more work done. I dont know how many of you remember my earlier comments about the difficulty of mounting the steering box, as the steering box and new motor mount crossmember want to occupy the same area of frame real estate. Even if I could get it to fit, I wasnt too wild about drilling all those holes in the frame without any kind of reinforcement, but, I came up with the perfect solution:
That's a chunk of 1/2" thick steel... the bracket is sitting at a 25* angle from the 4 mounting pads for the steering box from horizontal. I found the angle by putting the steering box on my vise, shimming it to level it, then, putting my angle finder on the pitman arm, and cycling it through it's travel. I came up with 25* angle from horizontal.
I then drilled and tapped the 1/2" plate for the 3 1/2" holes. I used fine thread so that I had 10 turns of contact. I then ground the two lower bolts off flush with the plate on the back side:
Checking the angle:
Steering box test fit:
Now, I'm sure at this point, you're thinking "jeepers, why not just through bolt it to the frame" And, here in lies the slick part of this setup... The steering box is going to sit right over where the 4 bolts for the motor mount go, so, I bolt that plate to the frame, then, drill and tap it from the inside, for the 4 motor mount bolts, so that they dont run into the steering box... I got 4 7/16" fine thread bolts for the motor mount. Below is the test fit of the plate to the frame:
and, drilled the plate for the outer set of retaining bolts. Notice the engine mount through the hole in the splash shield, so, you get an idea of how the engine is going to bolt to the plate from the inside. These through bolt:
bolted the bracket back on:
Now, once I pull the motor back out, I can take the bracket off, and drill 4 25/64" holes through both the frame and the plate. Then, take the plate off, enlarge the frame holes to a size or two over 7/16", and tap the 4 mating holes in the plate for the engine mount bolts, under the steering box bracket... and TADA, the steering box, and the motor mount occupy the same spot on the frame, the plate is held down by 8 7/16" bolts, and the frame web is pinched between the mount, and the plate, greatly reinforcing it! BRILLIANT!
After I got the bracket on, I plopped the steering box on, slipped the original pitman arm on, and it fits beautifully:
only issue is that at almost full lock to the passengers side, the top link arm hits the bracket, just barely. I'll have to clip the corner of it off with the grinder:
and, it's almost a straight shot up the steering shaft. I can get it to link up with a short section of flaming river shaft, and two U joints:
I can only imagine the power output this thing is gonna have. From 0-75mph, it should be un-freaking-believable!!
Got some more work done. I dont know how many of you remember my earlier comments about the difficulty of mounting the steering box, as the steering box and new motor mount crossmember want to occupy the same area of frame real estate. Even if I could get it to fit, I wasnt too wild about drilling all those holes in the frame without any kind of reinforcement, but, I came up with the perfect solution:
That's a chunk of 1/2" thick steel... the bracket is sitting at a 25* angle from the 4 mounting pads for the steering box from horizontal. I found the angle by putting the steering box on my vise, shimming it to level it, then, putting my angle finder on the pitman arm, and cycling it through it's travel. I came up with 25* angle from horizontal.
I then drilled and tapped the 1/2" plate for the 3 1/2" holes. I used fine thread so that I had 10 turns of contact. I then ground the two lower bolts off flush with the plate on the back side:
Checking the angle:
Steering box test fit:
Now, I'm sure at this point, you're thinking "jeepers, why not just through bolt it to the frame" And, here in lies the slick part of this setup... The steering box is going to sit right over where the 4 bolts for the motor mount go, so, I bolt that plate to the frame, then, drill and tap it from the inside, for the 4 motor mount bolts, so that they dont run into the steering box... I got 4 7/16" fine thread bolts for the motor mount. Below is the test fit of the plate to the frame:
and, drilled the plate for the outer set of retaining bolts. Notice the engine mount through the hole in the splash shield, so, you get an idea of how the engine is going to bolt to the plate from the inside. These through bolt:
bolted the bracket back on:
Now, once I pull the motor back out, I can take the bracket off, and drill 4 25/64" holes through both the frame and the plate. Then, take the plate off, enlarge the frame holes to a size or two over 7/16", and tap the 4 mating holes in the plate for the engine mount bolts, under the steering box bracket... and TADA, the steering box, and the motor mount occupy the same spot on the frame, the plate is held down by 8 7/16" bolts, and the frame web is pinched between the mount, and the plate, greatly reinforcing it! BRILLIANT!
After I got the bracket on, I plopped the steering box on, slipped the original pitman arm on, and it fits beautifully:
only issue is that at almost full lock to the passengers side, the top link arm hits the bracket, just barely. I'll have to clip the corner of it off with the grinder:
and, it's almost a straight shot up the steering shaft. I can get it to link up with a short section of flaming river shaft, and two U joints:
so, was looking some more at the spare saginaw PS pump I had, and decided to try and make a dedicated hydraulic pump for the winch. I'll do a How To on how to set up a resevoir type saginaw pump for remote resevoir:
First off, diassemble the entire box. Next, toss the resevoir. You'll have the following left:
I also am planning on making this a clutched pump, so, I have a York model 210 air conditioning compressor that I took the electric clutch off of:
Next up, we need to make some modifications to the pump housing. there is a through hole where the pump pulls in it's fluid from the resevoir. We need to plug these. Use a 1/4" NPT drill and tap, to drill and tap the two ports for 1/4" pipe plugs:
The other issue we have to overcome is the shaft lubrication hole return. The shaft has a spiral bushing which is lubricated by pressurized fluid from the high pressure side of the pump. this is then returned through the drilled passage shown:
This fluid is normally emptied into the resivoir in the circled hole below. Instead, we're going to connect it into the suction side of the pump (arrow)
we do that by drilling through the side of the original passage. be careful not to brek out of the casting, then you'll really be screwed! Once you get the hold drilled, cut a piece of suitable steel, and weld it over the original hole to block teh fluid form dquirting out of the pump, and to force it to return to the suction side of the pump:
on the other side of the pump is a hole plugged with a cup plug. Pound the plug out, and discard it:
once it's out, drill and tap the hole for a 3/8" NPT street L fitting.
Lay out all the parts.
Its a good idea at this time to clean them all, as tehy have gotten dirty, and, get a rebuild kit for the pump. Ask for a 1978 dodge truck, 400 big block, W200 4X4. Mine was $13
discard the following items, they wont be used. They are the resevoir O ring, and, the two mounting stud O rings. There is also two different thicknesses of O ring for the high pressure port to casting groove. discard the thicker ring, it wont be used. Also shown is the cup plug from the pump body. Install the rest of the components from te rebuild kit as shown in the kit instructions. If the kit didnt have instructions, there are pictures of the instructions from mine further below:
When reassembling the pump, make sure to put the vanes in the correct way. there is a smooth side, and a rough side, put the rough side in, shiny side out:
rough:
smooth:
Right:
wrong:
This is where those two square O rings used to go. Ignore the dent in the left top mounting ear, I dropped my housing... oops.:
just reinstall teh studs without them.
the next three pictures are of the reinstall diagram. only area it is not clear on is the direction of the vane rotor. The vane rotor has a recess on one side. The recess should face the end of the shaft that the pulley fits onto:
the rebuild is now done, for those of you who plan on constant drive. For those of you that want it clutched, you need a clutch assembly off of a york model 210 compressor:
The taper on the shaft is .25" diameter reduction per 1" of shaft length. My saginaw pump has a .75" diameter shaft, and, sticks out from the front of the seal by 1". that means we need to taper it down to .5" at the end. HOWEVER: in the above picture of the clutch, you can see the tapered hub sticks up some. The diameter at the top of that taper is .875, so, if you taper the saginal pump the full inch of length, you'll end up with the clutch hub running into the pump body before it tightens up. The solution is to only taper .45" of the shaft. there is a .05" chamfer on the end, hence why .45, instead of .5". this means that the shaft will reach the full .75" diameter .45" from the end. The end diameter should then be .638". I'd recommend welding up the hole in the center of the shaft and then milling a keyway for key stock, and redrilling for a centering bolt, but, I'll roll the dice on this one, and try relying on just the taper fit for enough friction to drive the pump. I'll be getting the shaft milled tomorrow, and will finish the rebuild this weekend...
I also plan on performing the Mods metioned in the link below, as the clutched pulley is much larger in diameter than the original pulley.
powersteering
First off, diassemble the entire box. Next, toss the resevoir. You'll have the following left:
I also am planning on making this a clutched pump, so, I have a York model 210 air conditioning compressor that I took the electric clutch off of:
Next up, we need to make some modifications to the pump housing. there is a through hole where the pump pulls in it's fluid from the resevoir. We need to plug these. Use a 1/4" NPT drill and tap, to drill and tap the two ports for 1/4" pipe plugs:
The other issue we have to overcome is the shaft lubrication hole return. The shaft has a spiral bushing which is lubricated by pressurized fluid from the high pressure side of the pump. this is then returned through the drilled passage shown:
This fluid is normally emptied into the resivoir in the circled hole below. Instead, we're going to connect it into the suction side of the pump (arrow)
we do that by drilling through the side of the original passage. be careful not to brek out of the casting, then you'll really be screwed! Once you get the hold drilled, cut a piece of suitable steel, and weld it over the original hole to block teh fluid form dquirting out of the pump, and to force it to return to the suction side of the pump:
on the other side of the pump is a hole plugged with a cup plug. Pound the plug out, and discard it:
once it's out, drill and tap the hole for a 3/8" NPT street L fitting.
Lay out all the parts.
Its a good idea at this time to clean them all, as tehy have gotten dirty, and, get a rebuild kit for the pump. Ask for a 1978 dodge truck, 400 big block, W200 4X4. Mine was $13
discard the following items, they wont be used. They are the resevoir O ring, and, the two mounting stud O rings. There is also two different thicknesses of O ring for the high pressure port to casting groove. discard the thicker ring, it wont be used. Also shown is the cup plug from the pump body. Install the rest of the components from te rebuild kit as shown in the kit instructions. If the kit didnt have instructions, there are pictures of the instructions from mine further below:
When reassembling the pump, make sure to put the vanes in the correct way. there is a smooth side, and a rough side, put the rough side in, shiny side out:
rough:
smooth:
Right:
wrong:
This is where those two square O rings used to go. Ignore the dent in the left top mounting ear, I dropped my housing... oops.:
just reinstall teh studs without them.
the next three pictures are of the reinstall diagram. only area it is not clear on is the direction of the vane rotor. The vane rotor has a recess on one side. The recess should face the end of the shaft that the pulley fits onto:
the rebuild is now done, for those of you who plan on constant drive. For those of you that want it clutched, you need a clutch assembly off of a york model 210 compressor:
The taper on the shaft is .25" diameter reduction per 1" of shaft length. My saginaw pump has a .75" diameter shaft, and, sticks out from the front of the seal by 1". that means we need to taper it down to .5" at the end. HOWEVER: in the above picture of the clutch, you can see the tapered hub sticks up some. The diameter at the top of that taper is .875, so, if you taper the saginal pump the full inch of length, you'll end up with the clutch hub running into the pump body before it tightens up. The solution is to only taper .45" of the shaft. there is a .05" chamfer on the end, hence why .45, instead of .5". this means that the shaft will reach the full .75" diameter .45" from the end. The end diameter should then be .638". I'd recommend welding up the hole in the center of the shaft and then milling a keyway for key stock, and redrilling for a centering bolt, but, I'll roll the dice on this one, and try relying on just the taper fit for enough friction to drive the pump. I'll be getting the shaft milled tomorrow, and will finish the rebuild this weekend...
I also plan on performing the Mods metioned in the link below, as the clutched pulley is much larger in diameter than the original pulley.
powersteering
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powerwagontim
- SFC
- Posts: 744
- Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:49 pm
- Location: Monkton, Vermont
- Contact:
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powerwagontim
- SFC
- Posts: 744
- Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:49 pm
- Location: Monkton, Vermont
- Contact:
Hi Josh,
I am not sure what a filler post is. I am sure I am not alone in enjoying the pictures, it is just getting cumbersome. I do not know if all 7 pages load when I open this thread, or just the last one.
Another thought would be to put your pictures on a free picture hosting site like Photobucket, and then just posting a link to the pictures. That is how I post pictures on the Power Wagon Forum.
Keep up the good work,
Tim
I am not sure what a filler post is. I am sure I am not alone in enjoying the pictures, it is just getting cumbersome. I do not know if all 7 pages load when I open this thread, or just the last one.
Another thought would be to put your pictures on a free picture hosting site like Photobucket, and then just posting a link to the pictures. That is how I post pictures on the Power Wagon Forum.
Keep up the good work,
Tim
Rebuild progress, Thread #2 IT LIVES!!!! PG 18
If this is your first time looking at my build, it starts here:
viewtopic.php?t=1192&start=0
However, if you're not new, scroll on down!
per requests from others, I started a new thread... I built the carb bonnet this past weekend... took a 16"X5" sheet of 16 gauge and bent and formed and welded and ground till I got this:
Then, cut a 1/4" thick ring to weld to the bottom for a flange.
Then, tonight, I made the intake tubing:
Tubing is 3", and the Jog to the passengers side at the back will be cut off right after the bend, and a 3 to 4" expander welded on. Then I'm going to build an airbox for a 4" diameter cone filter, and an airbox to encase it. Then, bring a 4" snorkel tube out of the hole in the passengers fender where the stock fjording kit came out, and run it up along side the windshield frame.
viewtopic.php?t=1192&start=0
However, if you're not new, scroll on down!
per requests from others, I started a new thread... I built the carb bonnet this past weekend... took a 16"X5" sheet of 16 gauge and bent and formed and welded and ground till I got this:
Then, cut a 1/4" thick ring to weld to the bottom for a flange.
Then, tonight, I made the intake tubing:
Tubing is 3", and the Jog to the passengers side at the back will be cut off right after the bend, and a 3 to 4" expander welded on. Then I'm going to build an airbox for a 4" diameter cone filter, and an airbox to encase it. Then, bring a 4" snorkel tube out of the hole in the passengers fender where the stock fjording kit came out, and run it up along side the windshield frame.
Last edited by Josh on Sun Oct 03, 2010 5:24 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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powerwagontim
- SFC
- Posts: 744
- Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 4:49 pm
- Location: Monkton, Vermont
- Contact:
with the ported heads, 3" exhaust and intake tubing, and size of the turbos, 500 should be easy... I'd be ecstatic if it laid down 750 or so, but, the problem is north of 600, the engine life goes down drastically, so, I'll probably keep it relatively tame until I can build a proper motor to go in it. I simply freshened this one up some.
thanks guys!
Sorry for the lapse between updates, been waiting on parts and such...
got the hydraulic tank for the winch... mounted nicely beside the T case on the passenger's side, under the battery box floorpan. Here is is through the "acess hole" I cut... I removed the battery box and floor from the old cab, as it was good and solid, and my new one is rotted through there because of spilt battery acid, in case you were wondering why I chopped a chunk of floor out. It holds 2.8 gallons. I made the "A" frame mounts on the back, and drilled and tapped the 6" X 1/4" walled tube so it bolts to that... no need to have extra bolts through the skidplate then...
here is the 3/4" NPT heading towards the front of the truck. I plan on using some braided parker pushlock hose for the feed to the pump, and the return from the winch motor:
got a nice 10 micron spin on filter on the return side:
plenty of T case clearance:
also mounted up the 5 gallon air tank on the other side:
close up of the strap mounts:
also finished the refit of the saginaw pump to make it a hydro pump, and got the shaft machined to accept an AC clutch pulley:
I cut the inertial ring/harmonic dampner off the AC clutch pulley, as I didnt see the need for it, since the pump is a vane type, and not a reciprocating piston type, like the pulley was designed for. It took 6 LBS off the pulley!!!
I'll put a 3 way solenoid valve in line on the high pressure line from the pump to the winch hydro motor, so that I cn nchange directions from in the cab with a flip of a switch. The beauty of putting the AC clutch on the hydro pump is that it freewheels 99.95% of the time, and when I need to use the winch, I simply engage the solenoid valve, and I'll relay the pump off that circuit, so that it engages when I flip the winch on. BRILLIANT!
Sorry for the lapse between updates, been waiting on parts and such...
got the hydraulic tank for the winch... mounted nicely beside the T case on the passenger's side, under the battery box floorpan. Here is is through the "acess hole" I cut... I removed the battery box and floor from the old cab, as it was good and solid, and my new one is rotted through there because of spilt battery acid, in case you were wondering why I chopped a chunk of floor out. It holds 2.8 gallons. I made the "A" frame mounts on the back, and drilled and tapped the 6" X 1/4" walled tube so it bolts to that... no need to have extra bolts through the skidplate then...
here is the 3/4" NPT heading towards the front of the truck. I plan on using some braided parker pushlock hose for the feed to the pump, and the return from the winch motor:
got a nice 10 micron spin on filter on the return side:
plenty of T case clearance:
also mounted up the 5 gallon air tank on the other side:
close up of the strap mounts:
also finished the refit of the saginaw pump to make it a hydro pump, and got the shaft machined to accept an AC clutch pulley:
I cut the inertial ring/harmonic dampner off the AC clutch pulley, as I didnt see the need for it, since the pump is a vane type, and not a reciprocating piston type, like the pulley was designed for. It took 6 LBS off the pulley!!!
I'll put a 3 way solenoid valve in line on the high pressure line from the pump to the winch hydro motor, so that I cn nchange directions from in the cab with a flip of a switch. The beauty of putting the AC clutch on the hydro pump is that it freewheels 99.95% of the time, and when I need to use the winch, I simply engage the solenoid valve, and I'll relay the pump off that circuit, so that it engages when I flip the winch on. BRILLIANT!