Driver's seat questions...
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Driver's seat questions...
Hello All! I got a complete set of new interior canvas from Beachwood Canvas and fabbed up the passenger side back and bottom this past weekend-both look great, but I need some guidance regarding the driver's seat.
My bottom board that bolts to the seat frame is shredded wheat. I can replace it easily. My question is: can I install a separate board that sits atop the base bottom without much difficulty? I don't have the spring seat bird nest cage so I need to fab up a bottom board for the foam cushion and canvas cover which will then attach with hemp rope and grommets.
Secondly, I am unsure how to attach the seat back canvas, again with hemp rope and grommets. Is there some framework involved or does the canvas slide over the back edge of the seat frame and down into place?
Has anyone done these mods? If so, any advice, as always, is appreciated!
Thanks!
Gary
My bottom board that bolts to the seat frame is shredded wheat. I can replace it easily. My question is: can I install a separate board that sits atop the base bottom without much difficulty? I don't have the spring seat bird nest cage so I need to fab up a bottom board for the foam cushion and canvas cover which will then attach with hemp rope and grommets.
Secondly, I am unsure how to attach the seat back canvas, again with hemp rope and grommets. Is there some framework involved or does the canvas slide over the back edge of the seat frame and down into place?
Has anyone done these mods? If so, any advice, as always, is appreciated!
Thanks!
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
Gary - we had the same shreaded wheat in ours!
We used what was left and made a 3/4" plywood base and pattern drilled all the holes for mounting to the steel seat surround. We bolted it together with stove bolts thru the plywood and nuts on the frame side. Don't forget to line the seat adjustors bolts up as well. We drilled 4 slightly over sized holes in the outside corners. We cut a second 3/4" wood base and laid it on top of the base and traced the 4 holes. Went to Home Depot and bought 4 furniture repair lags - these are a threaded hole insert with barbs that pound into the plywood. We used 7" high density foam (was actually a 3" glued to 4") from a furniture refinishing place and some white batting from the fabric store. Put foam on board, wrap with batting slip over cover and lace up. Flip the frame seat over, align the oversized holes to the furniture lags and bolt the foam cushion to the base. We did all of this and then found NOS bird cages!!! Hope this helps!
We used what was left and made a 3/4" plywood base and pattern drilled all the holes for mounting to the steel seat surround. We bolted it together with stove bolts thru the plywood and nuts on the frame side. Don't forget to line the seat adjustors bolts up as well. We drilled 4 slightly over sized holes in the outside corners. We cut a second 3/4" wood base and laid it on top of the base and traced the 4 holes. Went to Home Depot and bought 4 furniture repair lags - these are a threaded hole insert with barbs that pound into the plywood. We used 7" high density foam (was actually a 3" glued to 4") from a furniture refinishing place and some white batting from the fabric store. Put foam on board, wrap with batting slip over cover and lace up. Flip the frame seat over, align the oversized holes to the furniture lags and bolt the foam cushion to the base. We did all of this and then found NOS bird cages!!! Hope this helps!
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Seat bottom
I had to replace the wood on my driver's seat bottom. I was able to use the old one as a template, then cut a new piece from 3/4 inch plywood. I drilled the holes and mounted it using carriage bolts. I don't remember if I reused the old foam, or what but I realize the seats originally had springs not foam. My driver' seat back came out of an M43 or so I was told so it isn't fitted exactly right(it is longer and goes to the bottom of the seat base as opposed to stopping on the seat cushion. It works and mounts to hangers on the seat back frame if I remember correctly.
When i bought my seat covers I went with the staple on kind. Since my seats were all replaced with wood and cushions(save the driver's back) anway, I went that route. I used 1/2 in carpet tacks however instead of staples and they worked beautifully.....Spaced out about 1 inch apart they look very nice and hold the canvas very tightly.
When i bought my seat covers I went with the staple on kind. Since my seats were all replaced with wood and cushions(save the driver's back) anway, I went that route. I used 1/2 in carpet tacks however instead of staples and they worked beautifully.....Spaced out about 1 inch apart they look very nice and hold the canvas very tightly.
The wooden seat bottom is held in place by the adjusting tracks. The original seats had the birdcage springs on top that I believe just sat in place on top of the bottom board. Mine didn't come with the cage so I can't provide more detail.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
well dad made the seat cushion bottom the same as the wood board that is bolted there but he put in large holes where the bolts are located so when this one sits on the other the bolts come through the holes , basicly you flip up the drivers seat cushion and it looks like the bottom of the pass cushion 

1945 t24/m29 weasel
1946 cj2a ww2 style
1954 m37
mvpa 31698
nra lifer
1946 cj2a ww2 style
1954 m37
mvpa 31698
nra lifer
Driver's seat board
I last posted on Big Electric in March,2003. Since then I have been a
silent observer here, but worked on and drove a 53 m37. My driver's
seat board also needed replacement. I have made exact copies from
white oak veneer plywood. These are part #1278595 in TM 9-2320-
212-20P. If there is interest I can bring them to Aberdeen. They will
have sanding sealer, so you can apply your color coat & stencil.
Price is $45.
silent observer here, but worked on and drove a 53 m37. My driver's
seat board also needed replacement. I have made exact copies from
white oak veneer plywood. These are part #1278595 in TM 9-2320-
212-20P. If there is interest I can bring them to Aberdeen. They will
have sanding sealer, so you can apply your color coat & stencil.
Price is $45.
Neil Conner