Nickathome wrote:I know all about the round off issues, that'swhy I am going to try to locate an 8 point socket. If I cannot however, I am going to try what I can. My only concern is in getting the plugs off without damage to the pipe and the head. If I screw up the top of the plug I don't care, as they will more than likely be going straight into the trash anyway. Once the heater is on and functioning I'm not going back. Yes, I know to save the plugs is a wise idea should the need arise to reuse them, but all I can say is, however it works out.....
Nick,
I'm sure that Sid or John Bizal will have NOS elbows w/or w/out the taper bolts, just in case it gets buggered up.
I failed to mention: the plugs are still readily available too, and I was fortunate not to create any thread damage. Of course, the tapered pipe elbow with pipe tape would seal any minor thread damage but it was still a lengthy process.
Please understand I'm not trying to alarm anyone-just trying to save any and all from my experience with that doggone plug!
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
I assume from your other post that your engine wasn't able to run when you pulled the plugs. I plan to run engine for a while to heat up head and pipe. Then wait a while until coolant cools enough to drain.
I tried Sears hardware and my local NAP store yesterday for an 8 point socket. It was as if I was from Mars when I asked the idiot employees there is they had one. I'm on my way to Harbor Freight later to see if they have any cheap ones. I know junk, but I don't plan to use these sockets again. If they don't have any then I'm gonna have to take my chances.
I assume from your other post that your engine wasn't able to run when you pulled the plugs. I plan to run engine for a while to heat up head and pipe. Then wait a while until coolant cools enough to drain.
I tried Sears hardware and my local NAP store yesterday for an 8 point socket. It was as if I was from Mars when I asked the idiot employees there is they had one. I'm on my way to Harbor Freight later to see if they have any cheap ones. I know junk, but I don't plan to use these sockets again. If they don't have any then I'm gonna have to take my chances.
This is really a simple task with the right stuff to work with, it can be a nightmare if you go into it unprepared. A Harbor Freight socket may not get you through the job, I wouldn't waste my $$. You could be a fortunate one, but chances are slim to none. I wish you the best, but I'll have to say I would put off the job until I could get the proper 8 point socket. Sears has them for sure in their tool catalog & on line. I'm sure you know they offer lots of stuff that is catalog only items & isn't on the shelf in stores.
My experience tells me this, you mentioned warming the engine before removing the plug. Warming the area around the plug would be a benefit, but only if you have means to do so without warming the plug itself. Warming the engine & plug will not bring about any loosening effect, but will expand the plug right along with the area around it. The trick with heating to aid in plug removal is heating the general area while not heating the plug. Threads expand away from the plug allowing it to come free much easier. Example: a nut that is rusted solid to a bolt can be removed easily by heating the nut only while allowing the bolt to remain cool. You may say how can this be done, we have a carbon arc torch, electrical flame has no pressure as does an acetylene torch for example. Heating with an electrical flame does not drive the heat under pressure enabling one to heat only the desired component. You can heat the nut cherry red & at the same time pick up the bolt it's on with your bare hand, but let it sit for a few minutes giving the heat time to radiate through & through, you will get fried trying to handle it then & the nut will be as tight as ever once the temp is the same on both pieces. Enough rambling, maybe yours will be the 1 in a million that won't be all that hard to remove. Good luck.
I understand the risks of trying to do the job by improvisation. However I am not in a position financially to buy the fancy items such as this electrical torch you mention. I wish I could but I just can't so I will have to do the best I can. I am going to try an idea I have come up with to see if I can get the plugs out, If it doesn't work, then I will have to get hold of an 8 point socket somehow. I hope my idea works. If it does I will share with all. If not, then I guess I'll be part of the 999,999 who failed.
I understand the risks of trying to do the job by improvisation. However I am not in a position financially to buy the fancy items such as this electrical torch you mention. I wish I could but I just can't so I will have to do the best I can. I am going to try an idea I have come up with to see if I can get the plugs out, If it doesn't work, then I will have to get hold of an 8 point socket somehow. I hope my idea works. If it does I will share with all. If not, then I guess I'll be part of the 999,999 who failed.
I know you don't have the tools I mentioned, I was just using that as an example to better illustrate how the art of heating works to produce the best result. Hope your idea works & none of this will be an issue for you.
I thought about what you said last night. Temps are in the low teens right now, so I doubt I'll be working on the truck today. I went onto Sears.com and found some 8 point sockets fairly cheap. Not impact but no matter. I just got done ordering two. A 7/16ths and a 1/2 inch, both in half inch drive. I'm anxious to get this job done, but screwing the job up is not worth it.
BTw - my "idea" was to use a 1/2 in to 3/4in impact adapter in the hopes I could wrench the plug off using that and a large crescent wrench but the socket fit too loosely onto the plug. I test fit it last night and realized that would be a fruitless endeavor to even attempt.
What size number 8 socket does it take for the plugs? I would like to install a heater later on, and would like to accumulate the proper tools and equipment.
Ed Bennett
MVPA #31853
1951 Dodge M37 G741
1983 Jeep CJ5
1942 Chev G506 (SOLD)
Nothing is Fool Proof to a suffeciently talented fool.
NCmountainman wrote:What size number 8 socket does it take for the plugs? I would like to install a heater later on, and would like to accumulate the proper tools and equipment.
I don't know what size they are for an original 230, but the plugs on my truck's industrial engine take a 7/16ths for the lower radiator pipe and cylinder head, and the plug on the water pump is 1/2 in.
The plug on the head, and the one on the lower radiator pipe are 3/8ths pipe thread. The plug on the water pump is 1/2 in pipe thread.
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