Thank you both! anyone knows the timken numbers for the bearings and cups? Maybe I can find them locally. Everything you need to know is here: https://imageevent.com/moosecreekmaple/steeringknuckle;jsessionid=5uru25j6v1.zebra_s mossecreek maple is just one persons opinion. He runs the bearing top a...

thanks for the history lesson. now I want some

everything looking great! dont throw away the old ujoint snap rings! if you bought new ujoints the snap rings tend to be too thin. that allows the ujoint to slide out of where it should be. NOS ujoints should have correct thickness. the old ones you have are easier to service with the bent out ends

rebuilding the pedal assembly is always worth it. they dont get greased enough usually. makes the truck feel new. the whole thing will be when your done!

the shift into 4 from 2 or 4 back into 2 is very smooth. you can actually shift into 4 at any speed but you CANT shift into low when moving without a bunch of grinding!

7 oclock is the correct spot for number 1. do you have the distributor and wires in the correct orientation? did someone move the wires into the wrong spots on the cap?

there is a drain hole on back the backing plate that is supposed to direct any leaking gear oil away from the brake shoes. they get plugged with dirt and need cleaned out usually on these old trucks. on hte bearings i use stalube HD drum brake grease

very nice. always fun installing NOS parts

looks great! I thought the M37 engines were olive drab??? or was that only on rebuilds? did some work on a few the last couple years and both had olive drab engines

if its stopping well and you rebuilt all the cylinders they wont stick. the only time they stick is from sitting for years. If the shoes were a few MM out the pedal would be low. the space is around .010 in inches. 2 mm is about.050" the pedal would probably be low or spongy if that much cleara...

i second hte axle shaft check. that is most likely. the stock diff is very tough

The NOS diff gasket is necessary for axle shaft alignment. the aftermarket are not the correct thickness.

they didn't have the grading system back in those days but the quality of the bolts on these trucks is quite good. they would test out to at least a grade 5 in todays system. Never use anything less than grade 5 in any automotive application (actually a law). Never use stainless unless you know its ...

should go much faster than 30 with stock engine and carb. 55 all day. it will go faster but then it gets hard on engine

replacing is the quickest way most likely. you need both upper and lower halves. they are machined together