Stock ratio is plentiful. Just find someone who axle swapped their resto mod. Often they will give you the axles. Only work you need to do is swap center sections. (I've got several sets here for spares as needed. Less than $400 in them and 2 were fully restored, including brakes, and then not used....

I use a suction bleeder. It works great. Just don't wind the bleeder open or it will suck air at the threads. The slightest bit cracked open is sufficient. RR, LR, RF, LF.

I'm on a generator and mechanical regulator. After warmup and the battery has recovered from starting, at idle I'm about 26V. Off idle I'm 28.4V. If I come near stalling the engine I hear the cutout relay cycle and it shows battery voltage.

I wouldn't have relied on mine to serve as the floor. It was plenty stiff, but didn't have a stiffening skeleton frame.
Mine had two semi-oval windows that were fixed.
I am past the age of hooliganism in my trucks. Upside down is not a position they are likely to find themselves in.

I had one made of 18ga and it still took a minimum of 2 people to r&r the thing. 3 was better. I sold it and have stayed soft top since. I much prefer driving with no top and the windshield folded.

Armysurpluswarehouse.com has new shoes, but they are to me, pricey.
Most of the usual suspect vendors should have shoes.

Looked in to going. Can't even remotely justify the cost. Vista or Marana are more likely to happen for me.

A volt meter is a better choice to know what is going on. An ammeter only gives rate. But, because I like to know both level and rate, I have both and mounted the ammeter under the dash in a small panel.

Never been a member. MVPA tore a club I belonged to apart. Dues are insane for a group that appears to do nothing for members other than charge them high prices for anything affiliated with the organization. In the past 5 years I've quit or disassociated myself from all the clubs I was member of. (M...

I went a different route when I converted a couple of them to 12V. I drilled out the base of the original bulb, reached inside the housing and shattered the original lamp and shook out the mess. I then fitted a modern halogen lamp to the housing and put Douglas connectors on the wires. Works great a...

Just as an FYI, in a worst case scenario, a tire cage is a one time use device. They don't survive.

1/2" Grade 70 x 20' is available from Horrid Fright reasonably.
Don't wrap it tight! You need room for the tire to expand.

A very good and complete manual on tire/wheel servicing is available free from here. www.AccurideCorp.com https://www.accuridecorp.com/resources?keys=&field_resource_type_value%5BService+and+Technical%5D=Service+and+Technical&langcode=en The manual you want is W3.000 Accuride wheels safety s...

I've had US-24-nnnn engines. They are contract spares for the government. (You can't replace an engine unless you have stock to replace it with.) The last one came as a complete power assembly. Radiator cap to transmission yoke. They are Milspec 23" 230CID engines and came with ETW carb, waterp...

Looks like I am probably going to trade my unrestored complete truck (albeit fresh overhauls on engine, trans, transfer case and winch) for a fully restored 1st year M38A1 and M101. I will keep all my spares and sell them at the shows. Jeep isn't any faster, but it is easier to use and store. My Jee...