1963 M37B1 and introduction

[Explorer0863]

Thanks to great neighbors, I've been able to make some progress. Heavy stuff! The fact that my back is better after so many at home therapies, helps too.

Believe it or not, I'm still fighting both steering wheels. But they will come out. Sooner or later, they will.

Next step, painting the good chassis and removing, cleaning, preparing and painting the engine.

[vit16]

Get recovered soon!!
I´ve "recovered " also from back pain, nothing nice at all...
Take care, think before lifting!!
Ronnie

[Explorer0863]

Get recovered soon!!
I´ve "recovered " also from back pain, nothing nice at all...
Take care, think before lifting!!
Ronnie

Thanks Ronnie! Three weeks down wasn't fun. I am certainly paying attention to how heavy items are and how to lift them.

[Explorer0863]

The other engine is out. According to the TM it is designed to come out with the transmission, so that's what I did. Went to Home Depot, bought some 4x4s and 2x4s and built an engine cradle. Now I feel more confortable working on it. Not doing much with the old engine. Just removing some external parts, cleaning it and getting it ready for paint.

[Explorer0863]

I have a few questions. Keep in mind that I am not a mechanic.
1) The previous owner installed an electric fuel pump and I am installing electric wipers. I am not going to use the fuel pump assembly and am thinking of removing necessary parts. If I remove it, how do I cover the spot where it is currently installed. If I have to keep it, do I just keep the lines with those rubber capps as seen on the previous pics?

2) Take a look at the first picture with the arrow. I believe the left connector is the oil pressure sending unit. What is the connector on the right? Where the arrow is pointing. It was like that when I bought it and I can't any reference for it.

3) Tale a look at the second picture with an arrow. It looks like a bolt to the right of the oil level stick. What is it? Factory or the dreaded SPOT?

4) I decided to remove the oil pan. It confirmed what I was suspecting. At least 1 inch of gunk accumulated since only God knows when. My question is: Do I clean the bottom of the engine? If so, how? Do I just leave it as is?

5) What about the oil strainer? Is that removable? Do I clean it? If so, how?

As always, I thank you for all your help.

[Elwood]

I have a few questions. Keep in mind that I am not a mechanic.

Maybe not before, but you now own an M37, so you will be soon...

1) The previous owner installed an electric fuel pump and I am installing electric wipers. I am not going to use the fuel pump assembly and am thinking of removing necessary parts. If I remove it, how do I cover the spot where it is currently installed. If I have to keep it, do I just keep the lines with those rubber capps as seen on the previous pics?

You could install a block-off plate to cover the hole in the engine block where the mechanical fuel pump is mounted. Various vendors sell these plates, or you can just make one from flat steel plate stock. A gasket, sealer, and two bolts and you're done.

If you want the appearance of originality, you could remove the lever arm from the OEM pump and reinstall it, but the pump will still have potential leak points.

2) Take a look at the first picture with the arrow. I believe the left connector is the oil pressure sending unit. What is the connector on the right? Where the arrow is pointing. It was like that when I bought it and I can't any reference for it.

Looks like someone broke off the ears on the engine block coolant drain spigot. Simple to replace, and available through any auto parts store.

3) Tale a look at the second picture with an arrow. It looks like a bolt to the right of the oil level stick. What is it? Factory or the dreaded SPOT?

Just a plug in the engine block oil gallery. The factory cross-drilled the block for oil passages, and then installed plugs at the end of the drilled holes.

4) I decided to remove the oil pan. It confirmed what I was suspecting. At least 1 inch of gunk accumulated since only God knows when. My question is: Do I clean the bottom of the engine? If so, how? Do I just leave it as is?

5) What about the oil strainer? Is that removable? Do I clean it? If so, how?

The strainer is floating, i.e. it pivots on the supply pipe to allow the strainer to float on the oil in the pan, and not inhale the sludge near the bottom. You can remove the strainer at the pivot by removing the cotter pin. And yes, you should clean it.

Frankly, if an engine has literally an inch of sludge in the bottom, I'd be doing more investigating as to the condition of the bearings, etc. An inch of sludge is a lot of neglect.

One other thing to worry about: the oil pans on these engines (since they didn't always get the best of care, and often sat unused for years in the outdoors) tend to rust through on the bottom, especially when sludged like that one. The sludge acts like a self-sealing tire, until you remove the sludge. The engine in my truck looked like yours when I disassembled it (well, maybe not that much sludge in the pan), but it didn't leak oil, at least not through the oil pan (it did everywhere else!) After I cleaned the pan, I could actually see through the numerous rust pin holes.

[Explorer0863]

Elwood, thanks for the reply and the answers. A lot of great info. Appreciated. I guess you are right, unofficially I am becoming a "mechanic". It's fun to be working on this project and for me, therapy.

I removed the strainer and spent time today cleaning it. It is now as good as new.

[Explorer0863]

I also worked on the oil pan. That was a mess. Really bad, but now is cleaned as well.

[Explorer0863]

When I removed the oil filter I noticed that it was different than what I was expecting. This one is metal and looks to me like it's one of those filters that you do not throw away and instead you clean it an re-use it. Am I right?

I already bought one at Auto Zone, but it wasn't expensive at all, so no big deal.

[Elwood]

When I removed the oil filter I noticed that it was different than what I was expecting. This one is metal and looks to me like it's one of those filters that you do not throw away and instead you clean it an re-use it. Am I right?

I already bought one at Auto Zone, but it wasn't expensive at all, so no big deal.

Reusable or cleanable? Not something I'd try. It's just a cartridge filter with metal ends and a metal screen wrapped around the outside, but the actual filtering media is paper. There are some special cleanable oil filters with all-metal elements, but that doesn't look like one of those.

Don't forget to clean out the inside - especially the bottom - of the filter housing before you put the new filter in. Since you had lots of sludge in your oil pan, I'm betting there's some in the bottom of the filter housing, too.

[m-37Bruce]

I think it's the NAPA Gold 1100, at least it appears to look just like it?

[ashyers]

or Wix 51100, I just ordered one 5 minutes ago !

[Cal_Gary]

Yep, I use the NAPA Gold 1100 in mine.
Gary

[NAM VET]

when you clean out and then put the new filter in, add oil to fill it. Be sure you have the small spring that goes on top of the filter to press it fully down. If you fill the canister with oil, then push the filter it, you will have your new oil push out all over your motor. When I got my own '52 truck I began the restoration by reading virtually every post on this forum for hints and pictures and cautions and suggestions. One thing that you will need to check closely is the condition of your wiring, by now, lots of cracks and bare wires just waiting to short out. These trucks don't have fuses, they have circuit breakers behind the dash. I would start with a set of the TM's, I prefer the hard copies as much easier to flip open on your workbench with greasy hands than a DVD. I insured mine with Hagerty, with no restrictions, and drive it often although some states restrict drivers to parades, but not in my sate. And welcome, HC, aka NAM VET

[Explorer0863]

If I understand correctly, this is not a reusable filter and it should go to the trash can. Correct?