Valve removal

[drowe44]

I have a burned #6 exhaust valve I want to replace. I've already pulled the hood and fender and the head. Getting at the #6 exhaust seems pretty difficult. Does anyone have a good procedure to use? I do have the special valve spring compressing tool.

Thanks

[just me]

Just don't drop the keepers into the crankcase! The only way to do it is to do it.

[Elwood]

By "special valve spring compressing tool", do you mean one of these? The military referred to it as a "LIFTER, valve spring, part no. 41-L-1410", and similar variations were made by Sunnen, Clark-Feather, Snap-On Blue Point, Zimm, Wilde, etc. I find these much easier to use on our flatheads than the C-clamp style.



You might also find one of these useful when re-installing the valve stem locks. The military tool number was 41-R-2391-54 ("INSTALLER, valve lock"), and the civilian equivalents included Miller C-486, KD 605, KD 609, or Snap-On Blue Point CF-7.



or



All of these tools are fairly common on places like eBay, and for reasonable cost.

Are you going to measure the valve guide ID for wear, and check the valve-to-seat contact when the new valve is installed?

[just me]

I have the bottom pictured lock installer. I found it useless on my rebuild. Was far easier to do it with a gob of grease and a finger. I stuffed rags in the tappet box to prevent losing one. I have the same spring compressor shown and it works well. I also have a plier type that for me, worked even better. A bit more finger clearance.

[Kaegi]

I second the plan of stuffing rags in the oil return holes. I like the big c clamp style compressor. gives more room

[NAM VET]

Worked for me to have Charles Talbert's crew do my valve repair.

NV