Rusty 'scabbard'

[just me]

At least it wasn't like all the horror stories. Took about 3 minutes to bang it out! The block is now ready to head to the hot tank

tmp_12935-wdtt24560045262.jpg (100.2 KiB) Viewed 1956 times

[NAM VET]

Barnacles!!

NV

[DJ]

What did you use to pull it out With?

[just me]

The puller is next to it in the picture. Mike bought it from VPW I think for his truck, then gave it to me when he was done. Worked a charm.

[DJ]

Thanks,now I see it ,didn't scroll the picture down. I've got a problem with temp on hot days ,thinking I may have to pull mine.

[just me]

On my way to pick up the block from the machine shop. Assembly will start tomorrow. This go a bit pricey with the need to obtain a new crank. That set me back $400 for a Standard/Standard crank. So, all told in machining and parts, I'm at $1,700 right now. Only thing left to purchase is a ETW1 kit and refresh my 24V generator and starter. I am going to take the truck back to 24 Volt at the time of the engine swap, so I've got some lamps to buy, too.

[Jess]

On all my 251's the water distribution tube is formed from sheet brass. No rust or corrosion damage on any I have pulled out for block cleaning. I used a 1/4 rod with a hook on one end and a wooden tee handle on the other. Reach in and grab one of the passage openings and out it comes. For a rebuild, the hot tank does wonders to get all the years of crud out of the block and a good water distribution tube eliminates the hot spots.

[Elwood]

On all my 251's the water distribution tube is formed from sheet brass. No rust or corrosion damage on any I have pulled out for block cleaning. I used a 1/4 rod with a hook on one end and a wooden tee handle on the other. Reach in and grab one of the passage openings and out it comes. For a rebuild, the hot tank does wonders to get all the years of crud out of the block and a good water distribution tube eliminates the hot spots.

I wish the short block flathead coolant distribution tube was available in brass.

I've got a spare T-245 block that may never give up its rusted-in-place distribution tube. Maybe I should buy a 55-gallon drum of Evaporust and submerge it for a few weeks.

[just me]

It will come out,but it may be shy and resist you. You could try vatting the block first to clear some of the scudge holding it in place.

[Elwood]

It will come out,but it may be shy and resist you. You could try vatting the block first to clear some of the scudge holding it in place.

I'm sure it will. The rest of the block is so plugged with scale that I now suspect the previous owner did an engine swap because this one was constantly overheating.

When I get around to pulling the tube, I'll first weld up a puller to thread onto my slide hammer.

[Jess]

For a brass water distribution tube, I think anyone reasonably handy could fabricate one. They are soldered together but I can't remember exactly how it is shaped out the sheet. I'd post a picture but unfortunately, the spare engine has been built back up and the water pump is installed. When I get one out, I'll post a picture that can be used for comparison. Not sure why the 230 was sheet metal and the 251 produced in Windsor Ontario had the brass tube. I've never owned a civy 251, so don't have any idea if they have brass or galvanized sheet metal. A good rust inhibitor and reasonable coolant changes would have greatly reduced the rust in the block. I understand that its common in the warm belt to just use water, but here that risks freezing and obviously the rusting issue, even when drained. For an attempt at de-rusting, I'd consider something like CLR first before going to the more common flushing fluids. If you can just loosed the rust a bit, the tube should come out and then the block could be hot tanked for a superior cleaning. I've wondered about doing a rusty block in the molasses dunk before going to the machine shop. There are many opinions on the use of feed molasses in a water mix, but I have seen the results and would not have believed the outcome if I hadn't seen it myself.

[Elwood]

I've given some thought to fabricating one from brass, but I'd want to start with a new steel one, and unfold it for a pattern. Given the stack of other unfinished projects on my M37, and the alternative of using the proper coolant, rust inhibitor, and a coolant system filter, I haven't made any progress on the idea. Maybe someday...

I was only kidding about the Evaporust. That would be expensive. But a drum full of vinegar might do the trick.

[just me]

My steel one lasted 57 years. I don't see the need to form a brass one. (I could have cleaned and reused the D one.)