NP88950 Reverse Fork Shaft Removal

[ashyers]

OK, this sucker is not moving! Tried some heat, PB Blaster, paraffin, bigger hammer....

I've bent my brass drift into a pretzel!

Suggestions?

[just me]

Have you made the puller that is outlined in the TM?

[ashyers]

Not the shaft for the reverse idler, the shaft for the fork.

[just me]

I'll check one of mine when I get home to see what the issue might be.

[just me]

You are driving it from front to back? It is supposed to be tight. Yours may have the added benefit of some mystery glue as a sealant.

[ashyers]

Oh, it's tight! Driving from front to back and it's not movin'. If I didn't know better I'd say the sucker was brazed in! I'm worried I'm going to break something.

[just me]

Some laughing boy used bearing and sleeve retainer on it! Have you tried heating with the fast wrench to expand the case a bit and maybe breakdown the glue if someone used it?

[ashyers]

I wire brushed off the end on the rear of the case and I think it was brazed!!!!!! I'll have to take a photo.

Of course it's still stuck. Not sure how hot I can get this thing before I do damage.

[Elwood]

I wire brushed off the end on the rear of the case and I think it was brazed!!!!!! I'll have to take a photo.

Of course it's still stuck. Not sure how hot I can get this thing before I do damage.

Please post a photo!

If it's truly brazed in place, can you get a small die grinder in there, or will that irreparably damage the trans case?

[sturmtyger380]

Yes that shaft was a pain. Mine had a color difference as well but was not braised in place.

I had to drive it from the front out the rear. I only drove it out far enough to get the fork off the end of it on the inside. Then left it poking out the back as I did my rebuild.

I had to use a bronze drift about the same size as the shaft. I had to really whack on it with a shot filled hammer and a ball pen hammer until it started moving. Once it broke free it would more with less force.

So I kept driving with the bronze drift and the shaft moved backwards until I got the drift at an angle where it got stuck in the hole because it is not a straight shot at the hole. Then I had to drive the shaft back in some to free the drift.

Since I still had to drive the shaft farther back to get the fork off I took a smaller brass drift that I had and stuck that in the hole and I think put a 3/4 socket extension backwards over the end of the brass drift at an angle and drove it back enough to free the fork. The brass drift got kinda banged up and bent but got the job done.

[LegionPiper]

Sorry Andy,
Been super busy at work ...
I've answered you via PM.

Rather long answer, but it was necessary as building the tool you need is simply complex.
LOL...

And yes sir, the shaft is a slightly different color material.
It was one of the toughest shafts to extract.

OOOOOhhhhh wait !
You're talking about the Reverse Fork Shaft, sorry I was thinking Reverse Idler Gear.
please ignore my PM.

That was easy, I used a two foot 9/16 " hardened Chrome shaft and a 5lb Sledge Hammer.
She popped out like a paintball.
Alright, maybe not exactly like that, but it did move, aft to front.

[ashyers]

OK,
With encouragement from the crew I took the case off the table, made a small aluminum protective slug with a receiver for a BIG starter punch, put the case on some hardwood on the cement floor and prepared to either brake the case or remove the shaft with a 2.5# hammer.

It took 4 enthusiastic swings, but it did get moving. The aluminum slug ended up forming to the hole and was driven through too. I still can't believe how tight that shaft was fitted.

I sure hope the reverse idler is easier to remove, I'm working on the tool now. I also received a full set of new gears today, so we're getting closer.

Thanks for the help, again!

Andy

ps. the students were bummed I put the torch away, it seems the rose bud was a hit.

[LegionPiper]

Excellent news Andy !

Feels good to make some progress eh ?


Good luck with the tool, PB Buster can help the process as well.