Now that I've watched the video again (with the sound on this time ), I can see and hear that you're manually engaging the starter from under the hood. Since you were not in the driver's seat, I had assumed that you were turning the generator pulley to try to rotate the crank.
If the front drive is engaged, and the starter and battery are healthy enough, yes, you'd probably notice some movement of the truck. But the video makes me think that something inside the engine is stuck. The flywheel is directly bolted to the flange on the rear end of the crankshaft, and the starter drive is clearly engaging the ring gear on the flywheel.
When you disassemble the front of that engine, please post a photo of what's behind that pulley. It must be pinned somehow to the cranking jaw hub.
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
OK got out there today and made an attempt at progress. I decided first thing's first, disconnect the transmission so I can eliminate that from the equation:
Disconnected yoke
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I tried to turn it over and still the same thing. Even tried turning the yoke from the rear but it didn't work. I think the clutch was slipping. I wanted to see if I could turn the engine from the front manually. I didn't have the 1 11"16" socket that fit on there so I improvised and used a pipe wrench and a breaker bar to turn it clockwise. It just kept tightening the nut but didn't turn the crank. It got to the point I was pushing so hard on it I was afraid of damaging the threads so backed off it it. We puled the nut off and then pulled off the pulley all together:
Pulley puller
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Pulley puller
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Without a plan there's no attack. No attack, no victory.
So with the engine pretty much stuck we moved on to taking inventory of some other things. My friend Joe, the skinny young guy owns a body shop and is going to help me figure this all out. I've accumulated almost three set of every body part over the years so we picked out the best one for the restore. Here's my tub:
Tub for restore
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Tub for restore
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So with that we pretty much got everything buttoned up and called it a day:
Now what?
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So I need some advice here. I've now got two seized engines. The one on the donor truck (pictured) ran. I drove it on to the trailer, but sitting for so long has caused it to seize. I've tried all the conventional methods of freeing it like marvel mystery oil, seafoam, etc. The other block is really in bad shape. My buddy thinks that with the right parts and a trip to the machine shop we can get her going again. I like his optimism! There's someone on the board I contacted here local to me who is looking at doing a V8 swap and wants to unload his running 230 for $500. It still needs to be pulled. Does anyone have realistic rebuild costs from projects they have worked on? I'm sure I can get the parts from Vintage, probably even get some at NAPA. Is it worth the rebuild or go with the runner? Thoughts?
Without a plan there's no attack. No attack, no victory.
I think most would endorse the rebuild if you have the funds; if not, go with the runner but plan on a rebuild at some point. I speak from experience, as my 230 has a rebuild tag from Aberdeen P.G. dated 1969 on it, so while I know I'm on borrowed time, I'm just now able to drive it regularly for the first time this year (bought the truck in 2004) and it still runs pretty good (once I replaced the distributor and tuned the engine up)....
Gary
Thanks for posting the pics of the pulley removal. It looks like the pulley and hub are permanently assembled, not bolted together like the stock M37 arrangement?
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
@Elwood yeah if you look at previous pictures in this thread you will see that this engine has a weird pulley arrangement that's permanently affixed. My other block has the more common six bolt setup. Someone on here was saying that there were different variances based on applications, some with six and some with four, etc. Never saw one like that before though.
Without a plan there's no attack. No attack, no victory.
Here's what was on my engine when I pulled it from my '54 M37:
And here are the parts after removal:
I'm not sure what the extra, smaller pulley was used for. Judging by the paint in the belt groove, I don't think it was ever used. The fan shroud on this truck had the cutout for the 100-amp alternator system, but no other evidence that the high capacity charging system was ever installed, and this pulley isn't correct for that anyway. By the time I acquired it, the truck had been converted to 12v, with a GM alternator and mount cobbled up in place of the original system.
So there seems to be a lot of variety in pulleys.
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
That abnswers some questions I had for sure. I was looking in the TM and some pictures showed one groove and others showed two. Wonder what the smaller pulley was used for?
Without a plan there's no attack. No attack, no victory.
What is the engine serial number, does it begin with T245? If not it might be an industrial block and crank with a specialized application requiring the different pulleys.
Carter
Life Member:
Delta, Peach Bottom Fish & Game Assn.
Carter wrote:What is the engine serial number, does it begin with T245? If not it might be an industrial block and crank with a specialized application requiring the different pulleys.
Carter, if you're asking about the photos I posted, the block in those pics is a T245A.
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
Thanks, Bert. The floor is painted with POR-15 Armor Concrete Coating. It's been remarkably durable, but since that's in the workshop, I haven't driven anything heavy on it.
I'm still not sure what the extra small pulley was for. Jrod, you mentioned you had found some illustrations in one of the TMs that showed the second pulley?
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a T245 to go back into my M37. Before I pulled the block, my truck was running well, and I considered just doing a cosmetic job and converting it back to 24v. The compression looked relatively good - nothing lower than 110 and all within 10 - and there were no obvious problems. Not being smart enough to leave well enough alone, and having a need to know as much as possible about these trucks, I decided to pull it anyway. Which turned out to be a good idea, because there were a number of internal issues that would have become problems. When I'm done, I'll have thoroughly gone through the engine and addressed everything that was out of spec, and know that the engine will be reliable. So I'm in favor of a rebuild if you have the time and resources to do it. But it won't be cheap if you go through it from top to bottom.
Does the $500 for the 230 include the clutch and transmission assemblies, and if so, is it an NP420?
“When a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same Object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute Despotism, IT IS THEIR RIGHT, IT IS THEIR DUTY, TO THROW OFF SUCH GOVERNMENT...” -Declaration of Independence, 1776
Just asked the seller 57hemicuda about that. I noticed he was trying to unload it in the classifieds area. Not sure what his plans are other than a V8 swap? He didn't have any pics of it but he said it starts up really easy and drives great, plenty of power. He's relatively close to me so I might take a trip up there in a week or so to see it. He said I could drive it if I like before I pull it so that should be fun! I'll bring a compression tester gauge with me for sure.
Carter I'm going to look at the castings numbers and post my results.
Elwood nice floor! Thanks for the pics
Without a plan there's no attack. No attack, no victory.
Home 
), I can see and hear that you're manually engaging the starter from under the hood. Since you were not in the driver's seat, I had assumed that you were turning the generator pulley to try to rotate the crank.
