Walter

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:12 pm

that's why all of my pictures are either on facebook or photobucket. No real limits on there...

JimC · Post by **JimC** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 4:43 pm

I've been thinking about what you said about the big block Chevy's being so common. That's probably true. How many 37's would you estimate are running the bb's?
1000?
2000?
More?

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 5:43 pm

I said "in everything else". I don't know of may BBC's in an M37, but chevy motors in general are swapped all the time and just want to be different. Who knows, maybe I'll fall in love with this engine and make it a Clevor, or put a modern EFI and serpentine system on there and keep it like that for the long haul, who knows...

JimC · Post by **JimC** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:06 pm

I can identify with different. I run a hopped up O-200 in a 1946 Piper J3. Use it like a jeep.

I'd like to see an EFI in a 37. Would probably run a lot smoother on rough ground and on the really steep slopes. Plumbing to the snorkel intake might be a chore. I've thought about trying it myself.

I think a 408 Windsor would be a good engine. What transmission would mate up to it with a PTO on the driver side?

As an aside, an easily implemented hydraulic clutch arrangement is to put an extension on the bottom side of the clutch pedal pivot and use it to operate a pushrod to a clutch master cylinder mounted backwards on the inboard side of the brake master cylinder. Both master cylinders can be accessed through the brake fill plate. I used to use Plymouth brake master cylinders to operate the clutch slave cylinders.

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:24 pm

nifty on the clutch. I think I'm going to pull a hanging pedal setup out of a junkyard with a tilt steering column. I'm grateful I didn't replace my brake master cylinder since with this engine I'll be able to put hydroboost in there which will be a welcome addition. At some point this summer I'll go to a junkyard and pull the timing and accessories off of a later model Ford to get a serpentine system on there with a higher amp alternator. Might get lucky and find a dual alternator setup so I don't have to run a dual battery isolator. While this motor is carb'd too, either this motor in it's current iteration or the diesel that will most likely get put in will have some sort of EFI

JimC · Post by **JimC** » Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:48 pm

I'd be interested in the fit of the serpentine system. There's not a lot of room in the front of the engine bay, even for standard belting.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:58 am

The Borg Warner T18/T19 may be available with a drivers side PTO port. Most Ford transmission won't have the PTO port on the drivers side because it would interfere with the drive-shaft in stock configuration. http://www.novak-adapters.com has a wealth of transmission and tcase information that's usually worth a read to refresh the memory...

CLEVOR's are cool, but for the cost I think you'd be better off with a good set of AFR aluminum heads. The downside to most Ford engines is the head design. If your plan is to put any money into this engine at all, the biggest gains in performance will come from head work. You can stroke it afterward if you feel like you need more oomph...
I think I would avoid the dual quad setup. The space between fun and scary on the road is just a little too close. One carb off road is bad enough, I don't want to imagine the headache from two of them sloshing around and flooding things out... I think a single 670cfm Holley Truck Avenger would work just fine, giving you a good balance of economy and off highway driveability.

The hanging pedal swap is awesome! Its in the top five of my favorite mods. I used the Power Wagon kit from Ray at Heli-tool (Ugly Truckling) in my M37. It fit like a glove, and was super easy to install. And it should work with your planned hydro-boost brake setup. There are pictures of it in the build up...

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:41 am

got the engine last night. No starter, so can't do a full compression check. Also don't have an engine test stand to run it on.

Here's some pictures

As the jack on my engine hoist is currently out of commission, it is sitting in the garage on the trailer still and will be there for a few days until I can figure out my jack problems the it will come out and we'll go from there. Turns over nice and smooth by hand and looks pretty good. Will get a full dis-assembly, cleaning, and paint before I even think about putting it in.

JimC · Post by **JimC** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:40 pm

I agree with Ray about the single carb.

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:17 pm

Ray and Jim, I was actually thinking about going with a quadrajet instead of the truck avenger, but I just found an Edelbrock Performer intake on craigslist for $75 and might swap that intake over. Why not right?

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:37 pm

Nothing wrong with the intake swap idea. The q-jet is a good carb, and works well off road with the vent hose mod. They are finicky to tune though when compared to other carb's.

Are you forced into keeping all the pollution garbage where you are? I'd ditch it if at all possible...

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:52 pm

negative, no emissions checks required! Now I have to figure out what the best diameter pipe is for these things to keep the noise down and not sacrifice low end torque. So many tacky exhaust systems that drone like hell at idle and are just obnoxious. Don't want it to be silent, but I should be able to hold a conversation while I'm driving or at idle....

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:03 pm

I used to run dual 2" into a single 3" pipe, with a single red bottle on each bank. It wasn't obnoxious or irritating, but it had a great sound when really getting into the throttle (ie above 3500rpm). It had better "seat of the pants" feel torque-wise over the duals I used to run. While I didn't have this setup on an M37, noise is noise...

tbone1004 · Post by **tbone1004** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:27 pm

Thanks Ray, have to get a tranny nailed down and get this running before I tackle exhaust, but it's good to have a game plan. Will keep the Ypipe in mind

JimC · Post by **JimC** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:55 pm

The jeep T18's had the PTO on the driver's side. I forget which years also had the 6.32 gearing.

Avoid the cathedral bowl Holley at all cost.

I would keep the stock ring and pinion with this engine because it was my experience that the small block V8 in my 37 didn't produce enough torque to get the job done even with stock gearing. I think after you run in the field, you'll wind up wanting at least 400 cubic inches. That was my experience when I went through all this back in the 60's.

I used dual exhausts with a red bottle on each side, placed just inboard of the running boards so I could keep the exhaust pipes higher up in the frame and as far out of the mud and sand as possible. Reasonably quiet around town when you stayed out of the carburetor, but ungodly loud in the sand and mud. I made my exhaust choice not for power, but to keep from crushing the pipes while off road. The bottom of my pipes was even with the bottom of my running boards. I used the truck for search and rescue, and it got rode hard and put up wet.

Walter

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