Low compression

[MSeriesRebuild]

I've one more strong suggestion for you. NEVER start a new engine without working gauges. That is rule #1 around my shop. What if for some reason there was no oil pressure, and no working gauge? Catastrophe in a second, new engine toast, many dollars wasted. We have mechanical gauges to hook up if the electric one is not ready, but no engine starts around here unless oil pressure and temp can be monitored.

You mentioned you did not do the assembly of the components that were leaking; another rule of ours, assembly here is done 100% in house. It is the only way we know for sure how things were done; that way we can offer our 1 year / 12,000 mile rebuilt engine warranty with confidence. To date we have never had a rebuilt engine to come back. 1st of all that is due to God's blessing, we give him all the credit, 2nd is strict attention paid to every detail. We have a saying around here; "if better is possible, good is not enough." We offer the best quality workmanship that money can buy, it has paid off in a huge way for us.

[jim lee]

Well anyway..

Figured out the ignition problem. Wasn't anything burned out. When the spark happened I guess I jumped and yanked out the power wire behind the dash. Never did like them Douglass waterproof connectors. Like 'em even less now..

And while we're on the subject of the silly so called waterproof connectors. Do you realize that the 2-1 connectors are NOT waterproof? Unless there's a bigger rubber cap that isn't in the stuff I have here, they will leak between the two guys on the #2 side.



Allie n Dan bolting on the front sheet metal. We got all but one bolt in there. It was a pain to do but I'll have to admit its a fast way to get a lot of body installed. Kids were having fits cause everything was loaded with spiders from sitting around the shop.



Most everything assembled in the cab. This tool about 6 hours to do. Its just fight fight fight. No downhills on this project.



Secrete weapon for getting old rusty body bolts to behave. Run this through the hole with some oil and everything suddenly works better.



Most everything finished. There's still the headlight wiring to do. ( And taillight, and blinker box.. )



Here's the problem today.. I've got the clutch adjust all the way I can go and it won't release! What could I be missing here?

Thats' what's going on now.

-jim lee

[T. Highway]

Hi Jim lee,

There are several things that you would need to look at but here are a couple to start with.

1.) Is there excessive play in the linkage? (Worn pins, Yoke holes elongated, etc.)
2.) Did you install a new clutch disc or pressure plate? (If so, did you verify the finger height per TM 9-1840A ? This is covered on page 119. The proper distance from the flywheel to the top of the release fingers is 1.9375" +/- .031") If you didn't check this you may have to adjust the eye bolt nuts and then stake them after adjusting to get the proper setting.)

I hope this helps.

Bert

[Hal O'Peridol]

Jim, great thread, you're getting a lot done. That shop is huge.......is that yours or are you renting a space? Have to find something similar so I can do some work on mine this winter...

Also sent you a msg on facebook regarding finding a donkey d for the Jerry cans.

[jim lee]

Thanks! The shop is rented. Its usually used for building boats but we're taking the summer off to do other things. My thing was to put the truck back together with the kiddies. Mostly it was put the truck together by myself, but I had a good time and I really needed the break.

The truck is on the road again. I'm still working on taillights and front blinkers. I have the left taillight & front blinker working. the right taillight is still "in process". As is the right front blinker.

First issue : I wonder about oil pressure. When its cold, the needle is showing between the 30 - 60 psi marks going down to the 30 or maybe even 25 mark when hot. That seems low to me. But I don't know what it should have. I do know the oil pump is brand new so if there is a problem its probably the sender or the gauge as they are both quite old.

The second issue is carb lean/rich mixture. I wonder how to tune the carb. I can tune the idle jet screw. But for the rest? I'm at a loss. My suspicion is that its running rich, it never seems to need to be choked even when cold.

Third issue. The engine has a slight cough when idling. Its weird, like a loose wire? Can't be a loose wire. There's not that many and they are all new.

Last issue, timing. I bought a timing light. I figured I'd just tap off between the batteries for 12V and all would be fine. Until I remembered that the plug wires are all shielded so there's no signal. Local mechanic says it can be timed with a vacuum gauge. I wonder how well this method would work?

-jim lee

[MSeriesRebuild]

Oil pressure readings you mentioned are low for a new engine, IF all was done as it should have been with engine internals??? What about bearing clearances? What condition is the regulator and spring? Is all this within the correct specifications? Was it checked out in accordance with the book by the builder? You really need a straight answer to all these questions in order to determine if anything is off. I would install a mechanical OP gauge to verify the reading of the original. When we run rebuilt engines on our test stand, we use a known accurate gauge, then if there is a difference in reading after the engine is back in the truck, we know exactly where to look for the problem.

Has the carb been gone through COMPLETELY, I mean everything down to the smallest issue, if not, you can't determine the cause of a given issue until you know what you have. Once the answer to all questions is solid, then you can troubleshoot individual areas of the carb with confidence in order to run it down.

Same question with the distributor, has it been gone through completely? If not, it will be impossible to troubleshoot the small stuff with pin point accuracy. Hard to have confidence in your findings until you have eliminated the possibilities that one system could be working against the other in combination causing troubleshooting confusion.

The slight cough; definitely not good in a new engine. Once again, until you are certain all systems are at 100%, it's a real challenge to run down an issue like that. Could be fuel, you are already in doubt about your carb being correct, could be distributor, could be valves. Valves are an area that get extremely careful attention when we build up an engine. Most builders do not take the time to be certain the valves are seated 100% the best they can be; most literally lap a slight amount and call it good. With much experience, I can tell you that is not enough. I have no clue how much attention your builder paid to this area, but if he lick and promised this step, it could be your issue. I would say this; it is best to know that all the aforementioned items have been addressed and put into absolute top condition. You then know how to proceed in getting to the bottom of such an issue. It is really nice to say to yourself that you know it isn't this, that, or the other because you are confident that things were built correctly, and right the first time. Unless you know beyond doubt, it could take hours or even days to get to the bottom of this.

Timing; the vacuum gauge method is literally about as good as no method at all. This is especially true when issues you have mentioned are in play. It is easy to obtain the correct adapter lead so the timing can be checked with the light you purchased. Several vendors offer this adapter lead, I think John at Midwest has new ones. A worthy investment, you will need it again. Correct setting is 4* BEFORE top dead center.

Good luck.

[jim lee]

Well, I plumbed in a manual gauge. Its running about 20+ psi at idle. Is there a spec. for this? How much should it be showing at idle?

Havent checked any further. I guess the next thing I can do is look at the slide valve thing and see if its in there correctly.

-jim lee

[MSeriesRebuild]

Well, I plumbed in a manual gauge. Its running about 20+ psi at idle. Is there a spec. for this? How much should it be showing at idle?

Havent checked any further. I guess the next thing I can do is look at the slide valve thing and see if its in there correctly.

-jim lee

Is the 20 PSI reading immediately after start up, or is that the reading after the engine has warmed to operating temp?

If it is right after start up, that is really low with cold oil. I'd also need to ask what oil you have in the engine, (grade, etc.)

Typically, our rebuilds run 60 PSI or max out the standard gauge immediately after start up, and around 28-30 PSI at idle, (600 RPM) after thorough warm up. This will vary somewhat from 1 engine to another, but not a lot. We usually run a specific oil for break-in service; such as 10W30 break-in oil by Royal Purple or Amsoil. Oil branded specifically for break-in is formulated without the addition of friction modifiers so the rings seat promptly and properly. After about 500 - 1,000 miles, we recommend Amsoil with high zinc content that is specifically formulated for engines with flat valve tappets. These higher end oils pump easier than lesser quality lubricants; thus they will do a much better job than conventional oils at slightly less pressure simply because they flow easier and more freely through the engine. Free flowing = less flow resistance.

We used to run a lot of 15-40 oils like Delo 400 or Rotella, the zinc additives have recently been removed 100% from these oils; thus these brands are no longer a good oil to use in flat tappet designed engines.

[Hal O'Peridol]

Glad to know about the change in formulation regarding zinc content on Delo and Rotella. I guess I'll have to find a RP or Amsoil dealer.

[MSeriesRebuild]

Glad to know about the change in formulation regarding zinc content on Delo and Rotella. I guess I'll have to find a RP or Amsoil dealer.

Most convenient way is to purchase Amsoil on line. We also used a lot of Royal Purple at one time, they have dropped several items we used completely and they don't have a broad dealer network in our area. Made for long wait times to get an order. Amsoil's line is much broader, ordering is easy, delivery is prompt.

[jim lee]

I plumbed in a better gauge. I have 24 psi at cold idle. The oil is Delo 400 15-14W with an additive for older engine break in. Might be zink? I thought they said phosphoris but I wasn't listening all that close. I can't find a spec. for oil psi on these machines anywhere. Looked all through the manuals I have. I've been talking to all the old retired engine builders around here and they seem to think 40 psi is about all a dodge flathead should put out. I'm going to go out and see what the numbers come out like.


This is the first gauge I hooked up.

-jim lee

[jim lee]

The engine builder dropped by after I posted the last reply. We ran the engine up with the new manual gauge, it showed 65psi so we're good with it. He's happy, says the engine sounds fine and told me to go drive it.

I asked what the additive was, he told me it was zink. I also asked about the 2* BTDC in the manual vs the 4* I read from the internet. Seems the fuel was so bad that they needed 2* "In the day" and 4* should be fine now. I'l reset it for 4*.

I feel better.

-jim lee

[MSeriesRebuild]

65 PSI on a cold start up is what you should have. The DELO 400 is not a good choice for new break-in simply because its additive package is rich in friction modifiers. You are not doing yourself a favor to run it during break-in. It can literally cause the rings not to seat properly and cause the engine to use oil. Go to all this trouble, and screw it up now; certainly not worth the risk in my mind. BUT it is your engine, your time and money.

[jim lee]

Engine works, tail lights, headlights and blinkers all now work. There's now a working key switch that I can get copies for. There's things that need attention, like woodruff keys for the PTO shaft, but pretty much? The engine rebuild project is done.




Theodore's back!

-jim lee

[RMS]

nice to see her out in the sun. good job, looks great and im happy another flatty has risen.