New restoration thread

[snowdad]

Bert, I think you are right. Hopefully the bondo will not "pop out" of the pits over time.
This is what I have done this morning. I cleaned up the psgr fender and straightened up a couple of dents then applied the first coat of primer. I have got to slow down as I am getting runs in the paint.


This is something new from Plasti-kote that I found at TSC. I plan on using it on every surface that is especially exposed to corrosion and rust such as the undersides of sheetmetal. I should have let the first primer dry before I tried to apply the first coat of this. You can see just to the right of the can top it is running. Anybody else have any experiance with this stuff? It is $5.95 a can.

[m-37Bruce]

No experience w/it, whats important is your finish coat, will it be compatible with it? Your right though, slow down a little bit, are you sanding between coats. I like a primer (Red Oxide) that is high solids, and builds up the surface, it gives you some wiggle room. Your paint/finish coat is what's going to stick to the primer.
JM2$Worth,

[snowdad]

Bruce, Thanks. Was going to sand between coats 2 and 3. Should I sand between 1 and 2? As I have said before, body work and painting is not my best subject. At this rate, I had better be looking for some paint real quick! Now if I can just remember what paint number I had settled on.

[snowdad]

Driver's fender prior to prepping.

[outsider]

Make sure you get all of the marker writing off the fender before you prime it. It will bleed through the primer and into your top coat.

Steve

[snowdad]

Thanks outsider. Hadn't thought of that.
Phillip

[T. Highway]

If you plan on waiting a while before top coating, I would recommend the last coat of primer be a Primer / Sealer. Most of the regular primers are hydroscopic.

I would sand between each coat of primer or paint, you will end up with a much better finish. The light scuffing will allow the next layer to adhere better.

The bondo will adhere to the pits as long as you have cleaned and prepped them properly. If you can't sandblast the pits you may want to pick up some Rust-Mort and dab it into the pitted areas prior to priming.

Bert

[snowdad]

Thanks T Highway. Good tips. Any recommendations on the primer/sealer. Never heard of that, but I am not a paint and body man.

[T. Highway]

I've been using PPG DP74LF which is Red and DP40LF Grey / Green.

I would say your best bet would be to find a local auto paint supply house and talk to them. I'm not sure what products or brands are available in your area. I don't know what you are planning on for the finish coat so you will want to know the compatability of the products.

Bert

[snowdad]

Gonna go with the Gillespie in the 23070 (late WW 2 through 1955 semi-gloss od). I plan on ordering 4 gallons and a case of the spray cans for touchups. Do you think 4 gallons would be enough?
Phillip

[T. Highway]

Yes it should be.

Bert

[snowdad]

Thanks Bert.
Today I spent most of the time cleaning up the top surface of the floor and finishing up the toolbox floor. I cleaned up the rust through spots of the toolbox with a wire brush wheel on a drill after using a hand grinder with a stripper wheel and a sander. Then I coated the areas with a rust converter followed with a patching of fiberglass as I didn't have any metal the thickness of the metal used on the bed. Anyone know what guage it is? Seems to be between 14 and 16 guage. I will probably replace this later as I don't like doing it, but at the time it was all I had available.




There is also some type of mastic-like material for sealing on the upper surface of the floor all around the outer edge. It is about 1.5 inches wide. Anybody know what the material is and what can be used to substitute for it?



I ran out of light and had to knock off work early to take the wife out for supper seeing that it is our 28th anniversary. I will post more pics tomorrow. And in case anyone has wondered, I am keeping all receipts so that I can add it up in the end to see what it cost to restore it.

[outsider]

First rule of restoration.....DO NOT keep reciepts. They can be used as evidence against you later.

Steve

[snowdad]

I restored a jeep in 2008. Kept almost all receipts. NEVER ADDED THEM UP!

[Rick C]

Eastwood Automotive makes a strip caulk product that you can use to replace the sealing material that is there. I used it anywhere on the M37 where 2 pieces of steel were bolted together