Placing cab tub question and another

[Wayne64]

Hi All,
Tomorrow may be the day that I set the tub. My question is there a line up adjustment to shoot for, or since the left front bolt hole in the frame isn't slotted does the tub just locate it's self?

The second question deals with the positive starter stud. What do I do since now besides the main battery cable, the wire to the circuit breaker, and the heavy wire from my one wire alternator I need to put on my slave cable onto the lug and don't think I have enough threads?

[powerwagontim]

Hi Wayne,
When I set my tub,Imarked a small line on the rear of the cab at the bottom that indicated center. I did another at the front. Then measured off the frame, and shucked it around until it was reasonably centered. It isnt a perfect method, and I played around with it some when fitting the front sheetmetal.
Not sure about the question about the starter stud. I would say if you can get a full nut you are good to go.
Tim

[Cal_Gary]

You might get a copper nipple and a small copper stud (of the same thread pitch, of course) and extend it out. A good electical shop should have them.
Gary

[M37UK]

Wayne, how "heavy" is the wire from your alternator to the starter stud? It doesnt have to be a heavy gauge as all it is doing is charging your system. I use 4mm (11 AWG) cable for mine which is rated @ 60amps for 6.5feet.
A good online calculator for cable sizing here:
http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html

You should have plenty of room on the stud for the battery cable, slave receptacle cable, ignition cable and alternator cable.
I will take a photo of mine tonight for you.


Cheers

[Wayne64]

First off I got the tub placed on the frame this morning. As usual working alone and found two useful tools for the job. First off was using long ratchet extensions as drifts to hit the frame holes. After a slight touch while rolling my cherry picker in I placed my fender pads over the front bed panel. The whole job took an hour and a half. I now have to line it up before I tighten up the 4 bolts. A thought occurred to me, since the fenders seemed to fit alright before the dis assembly and I haven't disturbed the radiator support. I only loosened the front lock nuts on the hood prop rods, so that along with making sure the apron pieces fit I should have the same line up as before. Comments?
The first picture though is of my starter lug, is the nut closest to the switch needed? With out that I would have the room.

[M37UK]

Wayne, there is no need for the nut closest to the starter.
I used 1 nut and star washers to hold it all secure.

Your truck is coming together nicely !


Cheers

[Sal]

Wayne. I took a picture of the terminal on a starter that I have, Its about 7/8'' long after the jam nut. By looking at the picture of yours it seam that you have a full nut and not a thinner jam nut holding the insulator in place on yours. You might try replacing it with one.
Does the B1 have 3 mounting springs on Tub ?

starter.jpg (44.24 KiB) Viewed 1668 times

Sal

[Wayne64]

Thank you Stu and Sal for the starter lug info. Sal, yes my B1 had the three springs as shown in the Tm 9-8030. What I did find was the dished lock washer on two of the spring units which should have only been on the non spring one. Also the nuts were not adjusted right and there were no cotter pins? But I have found a number of mistakes by whom ever did the last restore.

[Sal]

["M37UK"]Wayne, there is no need for the nut closest to the starter.
I used 1 nut and star washers to hold it all secure.



Stu the nut closest to the starter is needed to prevent the insulator from being damaged when you tighten down on the nut to secure the battery cable eyelets.

Sal

[k8icu]

Wayne,
How did you lift your cab from the transmission opening? I need to set my cab on my frame for a little while and I am looking for a better way to do it and your looks like a good way. Just wondering how you hooked to it?

Thanks
Joe

[M37UK]

["M37UK"]Wayne, there is no need for the nut closest to the starter.
I used 1 nut and star washers to hold it all secure.



Stu the nut closest to the starter is needed to prevent the insulator from being damaged when you tighten down on the nut to secure the battery cable eyelets.

Sal

good point!
I didnt tighten the nut too much as to cause damage. (I hope)

[Wayne64]

Wayne,
How did you lift your cab from the transmission opening? I need to set my cab on my frame for a little while and I am looking for a better way to do it and your looks like a good way. Just wondering how you hooked to it?

Thanks
Joe

Joe, I'm a bit disabled so half the time I'm dreaming up ways to do things myself. All my family is still working (Thank God, not the WH) and here is how I did it. Firstly I have a 110volt winch mounted to the garage floor which lets me move the truck East and West. My cherry picker was a salvage unit that I added a new cylinder to for the North South moves. I have been rigging for 40 years so here is how I rigged the tub for a level pick. 4 bull rings were used (the type where you could use a smaller through bolt) Two rings in the second set of 7/16 tapped holes forward of the seat / battery wall. Using shackles and a 5 foot nylon sling. Then in the drivers seat storage area and the battery side I picked two 5/8 holes and used two more bull rings. Only this time I used a cable come A-long as the sling to get the tub level. Understand my cherry picker is WWII vintage and I can handle a ton and a half and get a lot of height.

[k8icu]

Thanks! That will make setting mine in place easier. I have a 24 yrd son-in-law to help me and he is a big boy, but the two of us can't lift the cab that well so using the cherry picker and the mounts like you have will work very well. Thanks for sharring.

[greeno]

Resurrecting this thread to see if anyone has pictures of them lifting the cab tub with a cherry picker (engine hoist)? getting it off and to the blasters involved a lot of sliding around; with it primed and paint to be done the days of sliding are over.

[Cal_Gary]

Here's my old boneyard bound cab. Obviously with a good cab you'd want to brace it up so it doesn't flex out of shape.
Gary