Been a while since I've been on... but I've continued to work on my project but now I got a case of the stuck lug nuts...
Stuck lugs nuts sure beats battling the local code enforcement accusing my truck of being a derelict vehicle...
I'm sure you guys have gone though this a time or two I've used heat, Penetrating fluid, and so far I've broken two 1/2" breaker bars and haven't budged a nut yet... Yes and I am aware that the ones on the passenger side are regular thread and the ones on the drivers side are reverse thread...
The Air Impact I'm using I think doesn't have enough power to break them loose so I was thinking about just pulling the whole hub assembly off... It looks easy enough to take care of on the front wheels can the same be done on the rear of these...?
If I can get the entire assemblies off I can take them to my buddys shop and have him hit them with a 3/4" air impact instead of calling out a commercial mobile mechanic...
The other thing to verify, is that the hubs got put back on the correct side at some point in the past. If someone had them both off at the same time, and just grabbed one without thinking, it would be easy to have them swapped. I have also seen hubs with both RH and LH threads in the same hub! That will mess you up for a while!
Tim
Wow i thought i had had problems with mine but yours beats that.
I broke one breaker bar,snapped clean off and i was standing on at the time,could have been nasty,bought a bigger breaker bar ,i snapped the adapter in was using so i could use the 3/8 socket ,dohh,went back and bought the correct size socket for the 1/2 inch breaker bar,still couldnt move it,i then got myself a metal tube that i put over the end of the breaker bar and stood on that,jumping up and down gingerly..eventually they all gave way,having got the wheel off the hub was mostly filled with sand and didnt look like it had been off in years,she came from a scrap yard in Holland ,before that she was in the Greek Army ,probably where the sand came from,at least i could eventually re-build the brakes.
Got em guys on the passenger side so I'm soaking the other side and I'll probably hit those this evening... It took a 3/4 inch Snap on Ratchet and a 6 foot cheater bar... The 3/4 drive really helped... as the 1/2 inch stuff was just snapping... I think I was making more out of it than it really was... So I guess the right tool for the job is 3/4 drive if they are stuck... Sure glad I don't have to call out the commercial road side tire changer now...
Finally I can get at my brakes... It goes but stopping is an issue...
Ditto on the wrong studs. I had one right-handed on the left front of mine. Didn't figure it out until I had jumped on the end of a 10' pipe over my 3/4" breaker bar. Sure was tight, but it came off once I figured er out! Someone must have broken one and just used what they had. Once you get the wheel off, grind a chisel to just fit the counter-sunk drum bolts and put the chisel in a hand impact. With a big enough hammer, they'll come right out.
Okay so in order to pull the drums I just have to remove the 3 slotted drum bolts and it should come off after I install those into the puller screw holes...
So then the hubs can stay on the car so that the brakes may be serviced...?
That is correct on the screws then the drums come off. I would heat them first because if your lugs were that stuck I am sure the phillips heads will strip out if they are stuck. Worst case you can drill off the heads then remove the drums then drill and tap the holes again.
xm708 wrote:That is correct on the screws then the drums come off. I would heat them first because if your lugs were that stuck I am sure the phillips heads will strip out if they are stuck. Worst case you can drill off the heads then remove the drums then drill and tap the holes again.
Odjob,
I have removed a ton of these drums, the only way I will even consider it is to pull the hub and drum off as a unit. (back the shoe adjusters off first) Then, with the drum sitting on the floor, you can attack the screws. I find I can get about 90% of them with a drag link socket which has been ground to fit the slots, and an air impact gun. You can really put your weight on the screw and very gradually ease in on the trigger of the impact gun, If they just wont budge, I heat them, but its at most one in ten. I have an ole rear axle that was broken, I cut the axle off about 8" from the outer flange. I sit this upside down, engaging the axle studs, and maybe run a couple of nuts down on it then whack it with a 3 lb hammer to seperate the dub from the drum. Sometimes it just about falls out, other times you give it several good whacks. Personally all I have ever managed to do with the puller screws is to strip the threads in the drum!
Tim
You might try this:
Using the Budd lug wrench and handle, get a cheater pipe, jack stand, and a sledge hammer. Put the lug wrench on, then the cheater pipe on the handle, then position the jack stand under the outer end of the lug wrench so the lug wrench remains purpendicular. Next, put your body weight on the cheater pipe (45 or 90 degrees on the handle) while your buddy hits the end of the lug wrench as you're forcing your weight downward. This often pops them loose.
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
GOOD MORNING, This may seem stupid; but what size are the lug nuts? I have not had reason to remove a tire due to a flat, but now I have a wheel cylinder weeping, that must be serviced. So I will go out and buy the correct 3/4 drive breaker and socket, THANKS BOB
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