Distributor Question...

[Oddjob]

Distributor Question... Got my engine to turn over with a crank and started moving on to the next process and saw that my distributor is loose so it looks like it needs to be tightened back down what TM will I find the info on how to tighten it properly and how to set the timing... any tips or tricks would be appreciated from you guys in the know...

[cuz]

TM 9-8030

Well not knowing if you have an original military or a add on civvy distributor, or weather you have the adapters for the military distributor and a timing light, dwell/tach and etc it will be a shot in the dark to offer any tips.

Give us a little more info.

[Oddjob]

Military distributor and I don't have any of the tools or adapters... yet...

[cuz]

Are you familiar with or have you actually timed a distributor before? Have you any experience locating #1 TDC on compression with a flathead engine before? You'll be able to get a better view of the clamping bolt from on your back under the engine looking up.

[Lifer]

I hate to say it, Cuz, but I think we're well on the way to geezerhood! So many of the things we considered "basic knowledge" have gone by the wayside that most people under the age of 40 have never heard of them,

[cuz]

We've been in geezerhood for some time!

Odd job, I am not 3rd degree'ing you. Just trying to see how large a bag of tips you can use.

[ZGjethro]

I just put my distributor on last night and got her to fire up! I have not worked on a distributor since high school 25 years ago. It was really easy. I pulled the #1 plug and installed the distributor. I then put the #1 wire on a plug and grounded it to the frame. It sparked just when the compression stroke pushed air past my finger in the spark plug hole. That told me it was in sync with the pistons and not firing on the exhaust stroke. If you do not get a spark on compression, remove the distributor and rotate the engine another turn before putting the distributor on. I borrowed a clamp on timing light from a buddy, hooked it up to twelve volts and set it for five degrees before TDC. I was given advice for 4 degrees before from Charles at M-series rebuild, but I am at 8000' so I set it a degree earlier. The point-less distributor was super easy to install and there are not other adjustments other than timing.

I am not versed at this and it was super easy. Your distributor is probably in sync so you just need a timing light and adapter.

The advice about tightening the bolt from underneath is probably good. I torched a wrench into a special shape to make it work from the top.

[Oddjob]

Well timing can be different from one engine to another... Which is why I ask...

Have I worked on a flat head... Yes Model A Fords... and that would be a bit different than this one... also did the timing on my 66 VW Beetle with an electrical tester... Have a timing light never have used it don't even know where I put it last...

Can I find TDC on No.1 Yep...

Trying to find out my options on timing this beast...
I'd just rather ask the question because sometimes I know you guys have easier or better ways to get things done...

[Lifer]

The first car I ever bought was a '31 Model A. Great car!

The local Ford garage, where my uncle was the chief mechanic, let me use their shop on weekends and I never once saw a timing light used. My uncle set the timing by setting a shallow dish of water on the head (or the air cleaner). If the timing was out, the engine would run rough and the water would slosh around in the dish. As the timing got closer to optimum, the sloshing would ease up. By the time the vibrations resulted in nothing but concentric rings on the surface of the water, the timing was considered "perfect." With all the electronics and electrical gadgets on the modern engines, I certainly don't recommend the water dish method! Just saying how some folks USED to do it.

[cuz]

That would be the GM equivalent of "Timing by ear" where the Mr Goodwrench lays his head on the block and stares at a sign in the shop and adjusts the timing so he can read the sign!!

Ok, Oddjob, you say no M series adapter kit, no M series timing light and yes on the rest. Inspect the distributor interior for condition. Check shaft vertical play within .003 to .010, side play should be no more than .003, all wires should be in good shape, coil should look undamaged by heat with no swelling or cracking. If you wish to check the coil's electrical condition you will need an ohm meter and disconnect all the wires. Primary circuit resistance should be 0.5 to 1.8 and secondary resistance anywhere from 11,000 to 18,000. You can use a heat gun to warm the coil up and recheck it. There should be no large changes in those readings. The distributor block (inner cap) should be clean with no cracks or carbon tracks and the contacts should have minimal erosion. Get # 1 TDC and back it up to 2 to 4 deg BTDC (2 is spec and some run better at 4) and confirm your distributor rotor is pointing at #1 wire. If it is there's no need to lift her out of the engine. Now the points should be open. Make sure they are full open an the high point of the cam and set their gap to .020. Hold a small piece of clean white paper in between the point set's contacts. Now rotate the distributor housing (CCW) opposite the distributor's shaft normal direction of rotation until they close. Now maintaining a slight pull pressure on the piece of paper very slowly rotate the dist housing in the same direction as the normal rotation of the dist shaft until the instant the paper pulls free of the points. Lock the distributor down and she's timed. Make sure all the lube points are lubes. When reinstalling the outer distributor cap check the condition of each shielded wire all the way to it's plug.

[Oddjob]

Hey thanks Wes...
That's what I would call a Field Method... and it was just what I was looking for... I'll be putting this in my file that I keep in the truck...

The Model A Lifer... I wish there were more on the road today seems the people that cherished them so much are slowly disappearing...
Very few of the younger generations can appreciate some of these vehicles for what they are and the time they represented...

Thanks Guys...

Brian

[Lifer]

Funny you should say that, Oddjob! As it happens, I was returning from an appointment at the Augusta VA hospital this morning and spotted what appears to be a '29 or '30 Model A sedan looking like it was "just out of the barn." Didn't have time to stop and locate the owner for a chat, though.

[Oddjob]

Funny you should say that, Oddjob! As it happens, I was returning from an appointment at the Augusta VA hospital this morning and spotted what appears to be a '29 or '30 Model A sedan looking like it was "just out of the barn." Didn't have time to stop and locate the owner for a chat, though.

I'm hoping to have a 1929 AA (stake bed model) back up and running one of these days... Since the owner doesn't throw any money at the project it just sits and waits... The shame of it is... It just needs parts and sheet metal work to go back together... all the clean-up work is done it's just a matter of replacing wood and some assembly... One of these days I can only hope... I almost picked up a Ford TT but a friend of mine said why don't you get a military vehicle it would be a better fit for you... So here I am... He was right too...

[Lifer]

So many trucks...so little remaining life-span!

Such is life, I guess. Sooner or later (I hope it's later!) someone will inherit my final project.

[rixm37]

OMG that Good wrench method cracked me up !!