frame rail alignment

[Josh]

So, was making the mounts for the new winch last night, and it started to occur to me that something wasn't right. I measured the frame alignment between the two main rails, and the frot bumper on the passenger's side one sticks out about 1" further than the drivers side... Is this supposed to be like that, or has some one REALLY tweaked the frame in the past? Reason I ask is that the winch doesnt sit centered left to right, so I thought it could possibly be crooked forward backwards as well from teh factory.

It's wasnt me, as I haven't hit anything with it since I woned it, and, the odd thing is it drives fine, so, I'll most likely leave it, even if it is crooked.

[SierraM37]

When I had the frame bare, I noticed a slight bend as well but knew that the truck had some damage to the right front rail. The forward spring hanger had been removed (rivet's) and bolted back in after they repaired it. Also some crimp marks on the right frame rail further towards the engine likely from when they straightened it out.

Before I took it to be lasted, I took it to a frame shop and they measured everything and it was not off by enough to warrant further attempts. The guy also said even if we got it perfectly straight, if may pop back into where it was after the first bump.

So I have yet to mount my winch and have been wondering not only on your issue, but for the PTO shaft alignment in the hole in the frame rail.

[Master Yota]

Your truck probably tracks square due to the accurate install of the axles... So long as the diffs are square, what rides above is rather moot.

My rails are square and even-length. Although my front diff is pushed back about 1-1/4" on the drivers side where the previous owner hit something hard enough to shear the spring pin off.

I would check for loose or missing rivets and maybe check the crossmember to rail "squareness" further back down the frame. It may or may not be a big issue to straighten it all out. Now would be the time to do it though...

[Cal_Gary]

Sometimes a deeply-mired vehicle that isn't properly extracted causes this-usually by someone attaching the winch cable/chain to only one shackle as opposed to balancing the load using both shackles. Take it a step further by backing your tow vehicle up and getting a running start jerking on it causes the same thing.
Gary

[SierraM37]

I sized up the winch frame extensions last night and I'll have to open the frame rail ends up a bit, maybe the width of the frame metal itself to get them to fit. What would you recommend to be the best method for doing that? I'd like to avoid heating and pounding as the frame has already been blasted and painted but if I have to, that's what I'll do. I haven't checked winch width yet.

[cuz]

Hydraulic Port-a-power

[WarrenD]

Some wood against the painted surfaces and a hydraulic jack to spread the rails sounds gentle enough. Depends on how far you have to go, if you are just a little too tight, fine, anything more than 1/2 inch I'd be very careful.

[SierraM37]

On one side it is only the width of the frame rail metal, perhaps 1/4", the other about half that so not too much shaping required. Just enough to slip them extensions in place to bolt up.

[Cal_Gary]

Ironically, I did a test-fit of my frame extensions this weekend, and found that while the width and lengths are ok, the driver's side frame end has been beat up quite a bit-enough that I'll have to tack up the third mounting hole closest to the radiator, as it has a small crack. I also used a big C clamp to press the driver's side in, as the frame is "cupped" just a tad. Cleaning the frame insides with the body grinder helps.
Gary