Turn Signal Upgrade
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Turn Signal Upgrade
My M-37 is a stock '52 model without turn signals. It has been upgraded to the HUMVEE style tail lights. All lighting on the truck works properly, front and rear, with the appropriate stock functions transferred to the HUMVEE tail units. Now I'm wanting to add turn signals.
I have a Signal 600 unit with 24v components but have misplaced the paperwork and wiring diagram that goes with it. I assume that the wiring would be similar to that of the Signal 900 which of course is still available.
So now my questions. Knowing that the Signal 900 is supposed to be a rather easy add-on would the 600 install the same or would I be better off obtaining a new 900? Also I know that there is more than one way to install and wire the Signal units but what would be the easiest way to wire this to the truck and stock harness with the least amount of headache?
I'm getting ready to pick up my 101a1 and I feel it's time to bite the bullet and finally be able to give some directional information to all those folks that seem to think my left turn hand signal is me just waving them by. The drama of it all is getting to me!
Thanks
I have a Signal 600 unit with 24v components but have misplaced the paperwork and wiring diagram that goes with it. I assume that the wiring would be similar to that of the Signal 900 which of course is still available.
So now my questions. Knowing that the Signal 900 is supposed to be a rather easy add-on would the 600 install the same or would I be better off obtaining a new 900? Also I know that there is more than one way to install and wire the Signal units but what would be the easiest way to wire this to the truck and stock harness with the least amount of headache?
I'm getting ready to pick up my 101a1 and I feel it's time to bite the bullet and finally be able to give some directional information to all those folks that seem to think my left turn hand signal is me just waving them by. The drama of it all is getting to me!
Thanks
John Davidson
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
Hello John,
If you ever need a hand with the L-5 or L-19 let me know!
The 600 switch was part of the relay type early turn signal add on kit. It is not wired the same as the 900 series. It would actually be easier to install a 900 series switch and flasher in 24 volt. Then you wouldn't have to fool with the relay junction box.

600 switch

Relay/junction box
MWO 9-2300-263-20 covers this installation.
Had you posted your email address you would already have recieved the wiring schematic and MWO!
If you ever need a hand with the L-5 or L-19 let me know!
The 600 switch was part of the relay type early turn signal add on kit. It is not wired the same as the 900 series. It would actually be easier to install a 900 series switch and flasher in 24 volt. Then you wouldn't have to fool with the relay junction box.

600 switch

Relay/junction box
MWO 9-2300-263-20 covers this installation.
Had you posted your email address you would already have recieved the wiring schematic and MWO!

Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
Scrap the early system and go with the 900 solid-state. You will have far less trouble, expense, and longivity is way better with the solid-state system.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
I have to agree with Charles here. I wouldn't use either of the military kits (old relay box kit or late transistorized kit). I would use a standard civvy 900 series signal stat with necessary lamp additions and wiring changes. A lot cheaper and lasts longer than you will probably own the truck.
But if you want period correct military then just give me an email addy and I'll send you paperwork for either.

But if you want period correct military then just give me an email addy and I'll send you paperwork for either.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
Thanks guys. That's the info I was looking for. I will pick up a 900 series and then I will have a few more questions. I've seen a diagram for the install on the M-37 and I have a pretty good idea how to do it but there are a few details I will need cleared up when I get started.
Cuz, I'm always looking for an excuse to get the L-19 out. You just have to let me know if you're ever in the Louisville area. As for the L-5, it's a Korean combat veteran and it is disassembled in the barn.
Thanks again guys!
L5av8r (at) bellsouth.net
Cuz, I'm always looking for an excuse to get the L-19 out. You just have to let me know if you're ever in the Louisville area. As for the L-5, it's a Korean combat veteran and it is disassembled in the barn.
Thanks again guys!
L5av8r (at) bellsouth.net
John Davidson
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
I now have a Signal-Stat 900, the correct 24v flasher unit, and I've already replaced the signal stat indicator light with the correct 24v unit. Now for the installation.
As a quick refresher my 37 is a stock '52 with stock wiring harness. The front parking/BO/turn signal lights are the stock units and the rear lights are upgraded to the dual composite units with the large brake lights. The brake lights are currently working and all the BO lighting functions are transferred to the composite units. Now I just need to wire it all in. I have the basic 7-wire diagram but I would like any suggestions/advice on the best way to accomplish this on the stock M-37 wiring harness.
Thanks
L5av8r (at) bellsouth.net
As a quick refresher my 37 is a stock '52 with stock wiring harness. The front parking/BO/turn signal lights are the stock units and the rear lights are upgraded to the dual composite units with the large brake lights. The brake lights are currently working and all the BO lighting functions are transferred to the composite units. Now I just need to wire it all in. I have the basic 7-wire diagram but I would like any suggestions/advice on the best way to accomplish this on the stock M-37 wiring harness.
Thanks
L5av8r (at) bellsouth.net
John Davidson
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
'43 GPW
'52 M-37
'43 Stinson L-5
'59 Cessna L-19E/O-1
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
It's work time now and I must get at it, however I will be glad to help you with this later today if someone else doesn't share the info you need. Sounds like you have the needed components to do it right.Av8r wrote:I now have a Signal-Stat 900, the correct 24v flasher unit, and I've already replaced the signal stat indicator light with the correct 24v unit. Now for the installation.
As a quick refresher my 37 is a stock '52 with stock wiring harness. The front parking/BO/turn signal lights are the stock units and the rear lights are upgraded to the dual composite units with the large brake lights. The brake lights are currently working and all the BO lighting functions are transferred to the composite units. Now I just need to wire it all in. I have the basic 7-wire diagram but I would like any suggestions/advice on the best way to accomplish this on the stock M-37 wiring harness.
Thanks
L5av8r (at) bellsouth.net
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
The above explanation on the Olive Drab site explains the process using auxilary lamps and some other items. While it appears a very good general summary, it is much more simple and less expensive to use military lighting as everything can easily be incorporated through the military master light switch making all functions operate as per the original system design. Really no sense in going around the world just to cross the street, unless for some reason you needed auxilary lighting.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
The early military add on turn signal system introduced relays to disconnect the lights from the main light switch when they are actuated as turn signals. The later transistorized system took care of it in the switching. The Civvy Signal Stat 900 can't do that so you will have to decide if you want to loose the front parking lights for turn signals or add a pair of lamps to the front for turn signals. You can add separate fixtures or just add a socket to the existing fixture. The 900 wiring will take the signal from the brake switch and include it with the turn signal operations at the rear lights. If you have the early M series rear light assemblies you'll need to replace the right one with a new left lamp and loose your right BO stop or you can add a small single lamp jeep style front marker to the right for the BO Stop function.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
I take it from John's post he has the round front lights with oval lenses, 2 bulbs in the top portion, park and turn signal, with the black-out marker in the bottom portion. These are compatible & will work fine with the Signal-Stat 900 series switch, 7-wire system. Personally I would recommend changing out the fronts to the amber composite units as well because of higher visibility resulting in a much safer vehicle. He stated the rear lights have already been changed to later military composite units. I would assume since the rear lighting upgrade is already in place that the original 1952 rear wiring has already been either upgraded to accommodate the later style composite light on the right rear which should have resulted in the removal of the separate black-out brake light mounted on the right rear since this function is incorporated within the new rear composite fixtures.
Since John already shared this info about what he has in place, I really see no need in offering him info that does not apply in his particular situation as it could easily get confusing. His request was for how to get his particular set up operational. The posting on Olive-Drab was a great, very detailed analysis of 1 way to do it with the original lighting and wiring set up that was used on the very early trucks still in place, however the better way to do it is by upgrading the military lighting components in lieu of adding auxilary lighting making the installation less complicated, and less costly, plus doing it this way keeps all lighting correct for the M37 as many trucks actually did get the solid-state signal system and composite fixture upgrades before leaving military service.
Since John already shared this info about what he has in place, I really see no need in offering him info that does not apply in his particular situation as it could easily get confusing. His request was for how to get his particular set up operational. The posting on Olive-Drab was a great, very detailed analysis of 1 way to do it with the original lighting and wiring set up that was used on the very early trucks still in place, however the better way to do it is by upgrading the military lighting components in lieu of adding auxilary lighting making the installation less complicated, and less costly, plus doing it this way keeps all lighting correct for the M37 as many trucks actually did get the solid-state signal system and composite fixture upgrades before leaving military service.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
Charles,
Thanks for insuring I don't get anything wrong. Don't know what I'd do without you there each step of the way!
I have been communicating off site and on with John and I am aware what he has already. There are several options and on a public forum like this it helps to share all of them. I agree since he has the bulb available in the light assy then there is no conflict with the parking lamp. But I am sure John is sharp enough to realize that. He has a new early harness.
While on the topic of options if one is not stuck on keeping the BO light system completely functional they can simply switch to the Gama Goat style full circle lens (amber front and red rear) for better visibility and will get the same if not slightly more lens then the composites.
And to continue with options one could put a complete set of four magnetic mount civvy lights on for turn signals on the early trucks with a plug-in removable harness if they were building a nice factory stock resto.
Thanks for insuring I don't get anything wrong. Don't know what I'd do without you there each step of the way!

I have been communicating off site and on with John and I am aware what he has already. There are several options and on a public forum like this it helps to share all of them. I agree since he has the bulb available in the light assy then there is no conflict with the parking lamp. But I am sure John is sharp enough to realize that. He has a new early harness.
While on the topic of options if one is not stuck on keeping the BO light system completely functional they can simply switch to the Gama Goat style full circle lens (amber front and red rear) for better visibility and will get the same if not slightly more lens then the composites.
And to continue with options one could put a complete set of four magnetic mount civvy lights on for turn signals on the early trucks with a plug-in removable harness if they were building a nice factory stock resto.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
-
- 1SG
- Posts: 2832
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 4:35 am
- Location: Norwood, NC
- Contact:
Possibilities are almost endless, I don't care for magnetic fixtures for a number of reasons, but it is an option.cuz wrote:Charles,
Thanks for insuring I don't get anything wrong. Don't know what I'd do without you there each step of the way!![]()
I have been communicating off site and on with John and I am aware what he has already. There are several options and on a public forum like this it helps to share all of them. I agree since he has the bulb available in the light assy then there is no conflict with the parking lamp. But I am sure John is sharp enough to realize that. He has a new early harness.
While on the topic of options if one is not stuck on keeping the BO light system completely functional they can simply switch to the Gama Goat style full circle lens (amber front and red rear) for better visibility and will get the same if not slightly more lens then the composites.
And to continue with options one could put a complete set of four magnetic mount civvy lights on for turn signals on the early trucks with a plug-in removable harness if they were building a nice factory stock resto.
Many options exist, we could go on and on even farther with various ones, however I disagree with your statement pertaining to sharing all options being helpful in cases where a person has gone to the extent to explain what they have and where they wish to end up as John did. I've seen MANY instances on forums where options not needed only caused mass confusion, if not for him, for someone else who may be following along in a effort to educate themselves.
Current Gama Goat style lens are pretty much junk, or all I've had lately have been. Reason; the plastic housing is very vulnerable to UV damage, thus they tend to crack and deteriorate rather quickly. On special request, we have removed the actual lens from the plastic housing, cut out the original metal housing and installed the red and amber lens into the metal. This can then be re-attached to the light fixture as original without the aggrevation of the plastic housing falling apart in just a few months. The lens itself has no deterioration issue and last great in the metal housing.
In my first reply to John, I offered to help as soon as time permitted if nobdy else stepped up before I could get to it. If you had posted that you were helping him off site, I would not have bothered to follow the thread any more, instead of wasting my time.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com