Rebuild progress all in one thread
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Finally, an update! Between being on the road all week for work, and working on house projects, I haven't touched it in a week!
Got the header flanges done, just in time too, as the material to make the rest of the headers should show up monday or tuesday. I need to get some SS mig wire. My dad brought down my brother's old scrap 440 head, so, I have a spare head to bolt the flanges to to weld it on, which will work as a nice heat sink to keep the warpage to a minimum.
I also replaced the old lift blocks in the front axle... I know, I've heard everyone say you shouldn't use them, but, It's always "My dad's uncles, brothers best friend used em and got in a bad wreck" or, in other words, I've never seen a REAL story about them. And, besides, they came factory on Deuce and a half 6X6's, so, how bad can they really be?
New blocks, boxed on the ends, welded the nut on the inside for the spring pack bolt:
Decent welds:
Welded it to the spring perch on the passenger's side. If you look carefully, you can see the weld cracked on cooling, but, it provides an interface to prevemt the block from rotating, as the U bolts are far from the block on each side, and gave it room to wiggle before. The driver's side doesnt have this issue, as the U bolts almost touch the block on that side.
Finally, I put the engine back in to verify the location (I'm going to start keeping track of how many times I move that 1200 lb beast, as I've had to have put it in the frame at least 1/2 a dozen times by now). Very happy with how it sits, it is on plane left to right, and is almost on plane front to rear:
Bolted the trans mount down tight, looks good:
Bolts are long on purpose, It will be the mount point for the skid plate:
Still have the issue with the oil filter... I'm going to see if I can get a relocation kit to fit, so I dont have to modify the frame crossmember:
I got the front mount location finalized, as well as made a torque limiter for the engine. I've seen muscle cars use chains, or, cables, but, it always looks sloppy, so, I used a 3/16" thick, 1 1/2" wide plate, welded it to the motor mount, then drilled a slotted hole, and passed a 7/16" shank bolt through. I used a longer bolt, where some of it isnt threaded, and cut the threads off at the thickness of a nut. I then drilled the crossmember at the top of the slotted hole, but, left it a bit down, so there was no contact with the bolt to the bracket. I then welded the nut to the backside of the crossmember mount hole, and put the cut bolt through, and tightened it down. Now, the engine can only move about 3/4-1" upwards before the limiter strap restrains it. Hopefully it will work as I plan, and it'll keep the 500 HP monster from introducing itself into the hoor, or, worse, ripping the motor mounts. Below are pictures and a video of the limiter.
Video:
Got the header flanges done, just in time too, as the material to make the rest of the headers should show up monday or tuesday. I need to get some SS mig wire. My dad brought down my brother's old scrap 440 head, so, I have a spare head to bolt the flanges to to weld it on, which will work as a nice heat sink to keep the warpage to a minimum.
I also replaced the old lift blocks in the front axle... I know, I've heard everyone say you shouldn't use them, but, It's always "My dad's uncles, brothers best friend used em and got in a bad wreck" or, in other words, I've never seen a REAL story about them. And, besides, they came factory on Deuce and a half 6X6's, so, how bad can they really be?
New blocks, boxed on the ends, welded the nut on the inside for the spring pack bolt:
Decent welds:
Welded it to the spring perch on the passenger's side. If you look carefully, you can see the weld cracked on cooling, but, it provides an interface to prevemt the block from rotating, as the U bolts are far from the block on each side, and gave it room to wiggle before. The driver's side doesnt have this issue, as the U bolts almost touch the block on that side.
Finally, I put the engine back in to verify the location (I'm going to start keeping track of how many times I move that 1200 lb beast, as I've had to have put it in the frame at least 1/2 a dozen times by now). Very happy with how it sits, it is on plane left to right, and is almost on plane front to rear:
Bolted the trans mount down tight, looks good:
Bolts are long on purpose, It will be the mount point for the skid plate:
Still have the issue with the oil filter... I'm going to see if I can get a relocation kit to fit, so I dont have to modify the frame crossmember:
I got the front mount location finalized, as well as made a torque limiter for the engine. I've seen muscle cars use chains, or, cables, but, it always looks sloppy, so, I used a 3/16" thick, 1 1/2" wide plate, welded it to the motor mount, then drilled a slotted hole, and passed a 7/16" shank bolt through. I used a longer bolt, where some of it isnt threaded, and cut the threads off at the thickness of a nut. I then drilled the crossmember at the top of the slotted hole, but, left it a bit down, so there was no contact with the bolt to the bracket. I then welded the nut to the backside of the crossmember mount hole, and put the cut bolt through, and tightened it down. Now, the engine can only move about 3/4-1" upwards before the limiter strap restrains it. Hopefully it will work as I plan, and it'll keep the 500 HP monster from introducing itself into the hoor, or, worse, ripping the motor mounts. Below are pictures and a video of the limiter.
Video:
Test fitting done today:
Jacked it up 2" and put it on stands to simulate the height when I put the 1100X16 Michelins on... I'm 5'11" with my shoes on... the fornt corner of the cab door opening stands 5'1" off the ground... its BIG:
Engine fits fantastic in the bay, all sorts of room on both sides for the hot headers and turbo. Plenty of hood room as well. The Edelbrock carb is a old one I had laying around that I used to simlulate carb height. I plan on getting a Barry Grant Mighty Demon 750. It comes set up for boost, and is only $650, so, that made my carb/EFI decision pretty easy. I found it yesterday while crusing the net.
Turbo location is pretty close. It will sit a hair higher, but these pictures give a pretty good idea on how it will go.
.
Jacked it up 2" and put it on stands to simulate the height when I put the 1100X16 Michelins on... I'm 5'11" with my shoes on... the fornt corner of the cab door opening stands 5'1" off the ground... its BIG:
Engine fits fantastic in the bay, all sorts of room on both sides for the hot headers and turbo. Plenty of hood room as well. The Edelbrock carb is a old one I had laying around that I used to simlulate carb height. I plan on getting a Barry Grant Mighty Demon 750. It comes set up for boost, and is only $650, so, that made my carb/EFI decision pretty easy. I found it yesterday while crusing the net.
Turbo location is pretty close. It will sit a hair higher, but these pictures give a pretty good idea on how it will go.
.
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- SSGT
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:06 pm
- Location: Cambridge (the Peoples' Republic of...)
welding stainless
Josh,
I am curious how your welding goes and if you can keep the flanges flat. I am always impressed by how much stainless moves during welding. Perhaps if you weld a bit on each side you can keep the warpage to a minimum.
Good luck!
I am curious how your welding goes and if you can keep the flanges flat. I am always impressed by how much stainless moves during welding. Perhaps if you weld a bit on each side you can keep the warpage to a minimum.
Good luck!
1953 Dodge M43
Fail often to succeed sooner
Fail often to succeed sooner
Monkey,
In my experience building manifolds, so long as you have a good heat sink, and substantial flanges, both of which I have, it will turn out OK. I always start with one center runner, then, move to the opposite end, then, let it cool, and come back to the second center runner, and go to the other end. I did this on the header that I made for my escort when I boosted it, and got less than .004 of warpage. I also had it bolted to a 1" thick block of steel as a heat sink too.
Not really work, per say, but, a whole ton of $$$!
Got my fittings for the turbos, as well as my inlet flanges, and, I found a solution for the oil filter problem. The rest of the material for the headers will be in tomorrow... UPS is taking their sweet time delivering it...
T3 flanges, divided scroll inlet... 1/2" 304SS
-10AN drain:
Going to use braided SS AN fitting lines for both the feed and the return. I used them on my turbo Escort and they worked well and never gave me any grief. Really only issue with them is expense... I spent $170 on fittings alone!
-4AN feed. Trick piece, as it screws right into the crazy 12X1.5MM thread on holset turbos.
Flange on the turbo:
Give you an idea of how big -10AN is...
This is the mating fitting on the oil pan. The threaded bung will get welded into the pan:
Oil feed... There are two things that are critical on turbos, oil feed pressure, and oil drain. Drain is extremely important, hence the REALLY big drain, and, the yellow fitting below is a .065" restrictor to control oil pressure to prevent seal damage in the turbos:
Feed screwed together. This will goin in the aux oil port at the back of the block and feed two -4AN SS braided lines to the turbos:
I've got plans for this.... 6"X3"X.25 wall:
My solution to the oil filter problem...It's a Trans Dapt filter relocation kit. I added teh bronze fittings to make it fit the application a little better, and soldered them together to remove the possibility of leakage at the joints. The Trans Dapt kit parts are all made in the USA (and very high end, with name brand Parker hose and fittings), unfortunately, the only bronze 90 fittings I could find were Ching Chog variety.:
In my experience building manifolds, so long as you have a good heat sink, and substantial flanges, both of which I have, it will turn out OK. I always start with one center runner, then, move to the opposite end, then, let it cool, and come back to the second center runner, and go to the other end. I did this on the header that I made for my escort when I boosted it, and got less than .004 of warpage. I also had it bolted to a 1" thick block of steel as a heat sink too.
Not really work, per say, but, a whole ton of $$$!
Got my fittings for the turbos, as well as my inlet flanges, and, I found a solution for the oil filter problem. The rest of the material for the headers will be in tomorrow... UPS is taking their sweet time delivering it...
T3 flanges, divided scroll inlet... 1/2" 304SS
-10AN drain:
Going to use braided SS AN fitting lines for both the feed and the return. I used them on my turbo Escort and they worked well and never gave me any grief. Really only issue with them is expense... I spent $170 on fittings alone!
-4AN feed. Trick piece, as it screws right into the crazy 12X1.5MM thread on holset turbos.
Flange on the turbo:
Give you an idea of how big -10AN is...
This is the mating fitting on the oil pan. The threaded bung will get welded into the pan:
Oil feed... There are two things that are critical on turbos, oil feed pressure, and oil drain. Drain is extremely important, hence the REALLY big drain, and, the yellow fitting below is a .065" restrictor to control oil pressure to prevent seal damage in the turbos:
Feed screwed together. This will goin in the aux oil port at the back of the block and feed two -4AN SS braided lines to the turbos:
I've got plans for this.... 6"X3"X.25 wall:
My solution to the oil filter problem...It's a Trans Dapt filter relocation kit. I added teh bronze fittings to make it fit the application a little better, and soldered them together to remove the possibility of leakage at the joints. The Trans Dapt kit parts are all made in the USA (and very high end, with name brand Parker hose and fittings), unfortunately, the only bronze 90 fittings I could find were Ching Chog variety.:
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- SSGT
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:06 pm
- Location: Cambridge (the Peoples' Republic of...)
Sounds like you've got it under control and yes, the flanges certainly have some serious chunk to them. Looking forward to seeing the final results.Josh wrote:Monkey,
In my experience building manifolds, so long as you have a good heat sink, and substantial flanges, both of which I have, it will turn out OK. I always start with one center runner, then, move to the opposite end, then, let it cool, and come back to the second center runner, and go to the other end. I did this on the header that I made for my escort when I boosted it, and got less than .004 of warpage. I also had it bolted to a 1" thick block of steel as a heat sink too.
1953 Dodge M43
Fail often to succeed sooner
Fail often to succeed sooner
so, since I was an idiot and ordered the wrong tube, there won't be alot done for the next week or so, as I am at the point where I need to know where the turbos are going to go, and, I can't do that without the headers...
But, anyways, back to that big chunk of steel tube I showed earlier...
I couldn't think of a better way to say hello to my fellow motorists in little red Miatas than a bigassed 3"x6"X .25" walled steel tube... At eyeball level... heh heh heh... Here miata miata miata....
Hangs down the same amount as the front mount I made.... will make a perfect mounting point for the 3'X3' 1/4" steel skid plate Im going to bolt to them...
Flipped the factory T case mounts around used them for mounts.... then, just for that extra something, fish plated them with a piece of 1/4" on top...
But, anyways, back to that big chunk of steel tube I showed earlier...
I couldn't think of a better way to say hello to my fellow motorists in little red Miatas than a bigassed 3"x6"X .25" walled steel tube... At eyeball level... heh heh heh... Here miata miata miata....
Hangs down the same amount as the front mount I made.... will make a perfect mounting point for the 3'X3' 1/4" steel skid plate Im going to bolt to them...
Flipped the factory T case mounts around used them for mounts.... then, just for that extra something, fish plated them with a piece of 1/4" on top...
Update:
picked up the air storage tank for the on board air system. I got a little 5 gallon tank from Menards, and, am working on making mounts for it. I also did something I said I wouldnt do, and that is add up the cost... so far, I'm $3700 in... Which, isn't that bad, considering almost 1400 of that is tools, my welder, grinder, and other odds and ends.
The 1.5" pipe will be in tomorrow, so, hopefully I can at least get started on the headers before leaving for my next business trip...
picked up the air storage tank for the on board air system. I got a little 5 gallon tank from Menards, and, am working on making mounts for it. I also did something I said I wouldnt do, and that is add up the cost... so far, I'm $3700 in... Which, isn't that bad, considering almost 1400 of that is tools, my welder, grinder, and other odds and ends.
The 1.5" pipe will be in tomorrow, so, hopefully I can at least get started on the headers before leaving for my next business trip...
- HingsingM37
- 1SG
- Posts: 1453
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 3:43 am
- Location: North Carolina
Josh,
Looking good. You are certainly making progress. Thanks for the detailed shots of your mods. Very interesting Keep up the good work.
Looking good. You are certainly making progress. Thanks for the detailed shots of your mods. Very interesting Keep up the good work.
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078
"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.
"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
another update:
Picked up a York model 210 A/C compressor off an old ford for $25. It'll work good for my on board air system. Need to clean it up and build brackets for it, and I'll be good to go.
I spent my time working on the headers though. I've discovered that welding thick stainless is VERY different from welding thin stainless, and, welding it with MIG is VERY different from TIGing it... so, the collector, which is where I started, admitttedly looks pretty rough, but, it should be strong, and outlast the rest of the truck. I just thank god that they are top mount manifolds, so, with the turbo on, you cant see how ugly they really are! LOL
I made the transitions from the square ports to the round tube by clamping the fittings in my vise, and crushing them, then hammering them on the short side to make them square up. It actually worked alot better than I thought it would...
Initial turbo placement was too close to the fender (actually touching it) so I had to do some tweaking, and, 3 attempts later, got it right:
Initial position, right against the fender:
yup, need to do some tweaking!
Tweaked, for the 3rd time...
Notice how much closer to the valve cover it is:
looks like its laying on the fender, but, its not:
AH HAHAHAHAHAHAHA That, is a BIG TURBO... and the're gonna be two!:
hood/fender clearance:
building the other runners:
close, but it makes it:
all tacked:
on the truck:
and... the money shot:
Picked up a York model 210 A/C compressor off an old ford for $25. It'll work good for my on board air system. Need to clean it up and build brackets for it, and I'll be good to go.
I spent my time working on the headers though. I've discovered that welding thick stainless is VERY different from welding thin stainless, and, welding it with MIG is VERY different from TIGing it... so, the collector, which is where I started, admitttedly looks pretty rough, but, it should be strong, and outlast the rest of the truck. I just thank god that they are top mount manifolds, so, with the turbo on, you cant see how ugly they really are! LOL
I made the transitions from the square ports to the round tube by clamping the fittings in my vise, and crushing them, then hammering them on the short side to make them square up. It actually worked alot better than I thought it would...
Initial turbo placement was too close to the fender (actually touching it) so I had to do some tweaking, and, 3 attempts later, got it right:
Initial position, right against the fender:
yup, need to do some tweaking!
Tweaked, for the 3rd time...
Notice how much closer to the valve cover it is:
looks like its laying on the fender, but, its not:
AH HAHAHAHAHAHAHA That, is a BIG TURBO... and the're gonna be two!:
hood/fender clearance:
building the other runners:
close, but it makes it:
all tacked:
on the truck:
and... the money shot:
finally back from my trip! Went up to my parent's house, and while there, stopped by a friend from high school and he hooked me up with some parts I needed. I got my saginaw reverse rotation box, lines, pump, distributor, and an RV2 twin piston compressor!
I got the dizzy in, just to help keep crud out of the engine, and mounted the RV2 compressor. I then tried to mount the PS pump with the truck brackets, but, they wouldnt work, as they hit the compressor, so, I ended up making my own...
dual shive pulleys... will use the front rib to drive the water and PS pumps, and, will use the rear one to run the compressor and alternator. Tested the clutch on the AC pump, and, it works...
ignore the yellow paint... I have the worst luck in the world... I was working on the PS brackets, and, a full can of yellow spray paint fell off my shelf and impaled itself on a piece of angled cut off steel scrap... needless to say, it made a big mess!!
just enough room to get the oil filter adapter on:
going to have to shorten up the PS lines...
plenty of hood clearance:
I got the dizzy in, just to help keep crud out of the engine, and mounted the RV2 compressor. I then tried to mount the PS pump with the truck brackets, but, they wouldnt work, as they hit the compressor, so, I ended up making my own...
dual shive pulleys... will use the front rib to drive the water and PS pumps, and, will use the rear one to run the compressor and alternator. Tested the clutch on the AC pump, and, it works...
ignore the yellow paint... I have the worst luck in the world... I was working on the PS brackets, and, a full can of yellow spray paint fell off my shelf and impaled itself on a piece of angled cut off steel scrap... needless to say, it made a big mess!!
just enough room to get the oil filter adapter on:
going to have to shorten up the PS lines...
plenty of hood clearance:
more work done. Made the second header collector. I HATE making these things, they take forever... At least its done. It ain't pretty, but, its .109 walled tube, and a 1/2" flange, so, it should last longer than the rest of the truck... This one warped as bad as the first one, and I welded it slower and differently to try and minimize the warpage. Must be a function of the stainless steel, as the mild steel one I made for my escort didnt warp hadly at all. Oh well, just have to order some copper gaskets with a crush ring.
Also ordered a 1980 Chevy C30 master cylinder for the brakes. It'll be here on tuesday. It's the one recommended by Ray on www.uglytruckling.com for the retrofit. Was $43 for a rebuilt one, or, 95 for a new one, so, I got the rebuilt one...
Also ordered a 1980 Chevy C30 master cylinder for the brakes. It'll be here on tuesday. It's the one recommended by Ray on www.uglytruckling.com for the retrofit. Was $43 for a rebuilt one, or, 95 for a new one, so, I got the rebuilt one...
-
- SSGT
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:06 pm
- Location: Cambridge (the Peoples' Republic of...)