Front seals. Okay, the bearings too. HELP!

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Milsurp
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Front seals. Okay, the bearings too. HELP!

Post by Milsurp »

I just want the inner and outer seals. Two each on right front and left front wheels, correct? I'm thinking since we'll be that far into it might as well replace bearings or, repack them for sure.

Help please with resources to purchase what I need. Thanks, Gentlemen.
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HingsingM37
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Post by HingsingM37 »

Here are the bearing numbers:

Timken 28682 large cone, 2984 small cone, 28622 large cup, 2924 small cup. 1 set ( two bearings, two cups) per wheel.

Inner hub seals are a CR#28116 or Transcom 281384SA-H. You will need 4 total.

The front hubs have no outer seal. The the front flange paper gaskets can be replaced by sealer.

The rear axle uses the 2 of the flanged seal on the outer. P/N National 6077 or CR#20766

Any good bearing house can procure these for you. I would avoid NOS seals. Just my opinion. Why put 30-50 year old seals on your truck?

You will need a good hunk of 1/4 " flat steel to tap the inner hub seals in evenly. This works best. Do not use a "close size" socket or pipe, you may distort them. Hope this helps :)
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
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"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
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"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
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HingsingM37
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Post by HingsingM37 »

Oh I see now you are only doing the front, you will need only two bearing sets and two inner seals. I need more coffee :lol:
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078

"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.

"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
Milsurp
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Post by Milsurp »

Excellent! Thank you David.
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Post by Nickathome »

HingsingM37 wrote:
You will need a good hunk of 1/4 " flat steel to tap the inner hub seals in evenly. This works best. Do not use a "close size" socket or pipe, you may distort them. Hope this helps :)
This is very true. I first tried a piece of PVC in hopes it would work, then used a piece of stout wooden dowel about 2 1/2 inches in dia to seat the seals. I bent a couple of them slightly in doing so, but not so bad that they won't do the job. Next time(if there ever is a next time), I am going to either buy or make a heavy seal driver. A piece of heavy gauge steel with a 1/4 thick steel disc welded to its end should do nicely.
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Post by bubba_got_you »

I got my bearings from a local place and paid 300 for the rear and I got the front bearings from vintage power wagons and paid 120 for the same bearings. Make shore you are getting a good deal.
May God grant me with the serenity to accept the things I cannot shoot, The ability to shoot the things I can and a place to hide the bodies
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HingsingM37
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Post by HingsingM37 »

Bubba,

Was that for the pumpkin bearings as well? If you paid $300 for just the hub bearings, I would not return to that store. Thats about double what it should have been for new Timken cups and cones for both hubs. There is plenty of NOS stock out there also for less. :)
David
HingsingM37
1958 M37B1
1968 M101A1 Trailer
MVPA# 33078

"Do Not Take Counsel of Your Fears"
General George S. Patton Jr.

"Those who pound their guns into plows, will plow for those who do not".
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Post by bubba_got_you »

HingsingM37 wrote:Bubba,

Was that for the pumpkin bearings as well? If you paid $300 for just the hub bearings, I would not return to that store. Thats about double what it should have been for new Timken cups and cones for both hubs. There is plenty of NOS stock out there also for less. :)
yes thats just the hubs and i know it was way off but it was my fault for not asking how much. :wink:
May God grant me with the serenity to accept the things I cannot shoot, The ability to shoot the things I can and a place to hide the bodies
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