Pinion Seal Number Needed
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Pinion Seal Number Needed
Does anyone have an aftermarket part number for a pinion seal for the stock diff? It's a large seal (about 4" dia).
Here is the list posted on Cabell Garbee's site:
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/PartsCross.PDF
I don't know who the original compiler is or I'd credit him as well.
Some of the numbers are out of date, but a decent parts house will be able to get you what you need.
Good luck...
Dave
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/PartsCross.PDF
I don't know who the original compiler is or I'd credit him as well.
Some of the numbers are out of date, but a decent parts house will be able to get you what you need.
Good luck...
Dave
Dave Ostlund
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
1941 WC9
1952 M37 W/W
1953 M38A1
M116
RTFB
Something to at least be aware of. (I am sure others will clarify my mudd..lol) I recall when I changed mine that there were two possibilities. First situation could be that the pinion flange seal was a one piece whopper of a sheet metal/seal. The second configuration was that the inner most part where the oil seal goes is removable from the larger sheet metal part. Just be aware of this, when you look at yours you should be able to tell which configuration you have. Also, don't use a NOS part like I did the first time, get a new, current production seal. I believe someone from the forum sold the version that had the replaceable center if you needed it. Maybe Charles T. or possibly Sid.
Mark
Mark
Mark Ellis
1953 M37 WOW
1967 M101A1
NRA Life Member
USMC Retired
1953 M37 WOW
1967 M101A1
NRA Life Member
USMC Retired
Thanks for the info. I have the big seal (4.01 OD I think). As I went to remove it I found it does have the removeable inner portion, which I removed. I looked at the dimensions for the part numbers on cabells list and neither, the inner (removeable portion) nor the main sheet metal part, OD's were compatable. I see what appears to be the seal I need at VPW, but if I could replace just the inner portion I figure I might save a few bucks. What to do Charles?
Brooks
Brooks
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I personally don't care for any of the NOS type seals. They are leather & of course drip. Once upon a time they were available in rubber that worked fairly well, however now if you could find one, the rubber is so old it would be the usual deterioration problem. What we have done is machine an adapter out of 1018 cold roll & press a current production rubber seal into it. The seal only is replaceable if the need arises. The adapter never needs to come out unless you are changing a pinion shaft or installing new bearings. We did machine threaded holes so a puller can be used if it needs to be removed. All our rebuilds get this set up now, & we have sold quite a few as retrofit kits.
Charles Talbert
www.mseriesrebuild.com
www.mseriesrebuild.com
I can vouch for not wanting to use the NOS seals. I had bought NOS seals for my transfer and pinions because I wanted to keep it "original". They were the rubber ones but manufactured in 1967...... so they worked for about..... two days then started to leak worse than the ones that were there originally. Also the design of the original seals with the felt wiper holds moisture and grit and in my opinion just makes any situation worse by providing moisture to allow corrosion and pitting to work it's way toward the seal. The work involved on the transfer case pulling the drive shafts, then the seals and then doing it all again sucked. Listen to Charles. LOL
Mark
Mark
Mark Ellis
1953 M37 WOW
1967 M101A1
NRA Life Member
USMC Retired
1953 M37 WOW
1967 M101A1
NRA Life Member
USMC Retired