1953 M37
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
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- SGT
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- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Ok, got the chance to pull off water pump and check on condition of distribution tube. Was very surprised. Looks good and pulled right out with needle nose. Not very rusty in block, just light coat. more like stained than flacky rust
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- SGT
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Did have one bolt broke off so had to remove that and make a new gasket
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- SGT
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- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
One thing I noticed is someone put to long a bolt in the bottom hole and it just touched the cylinder wall. Didnt do more than scratch it but if was any longer would not have been good.
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Re: 1953 M37
Thanks for the great pictures! I have yet to pull mine so this post will certainly help.
Gary
Gary
Cal_Gary
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
1954 M37 W/W
MVPA Correspondent #28500
G741.org Forum member since 2004
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- SGT
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Glad could help a little as I've learned lots from others posts. I had no idea about the water tube until someone here mentioned it. One thing to mention is if replacing bolts make sure not to long on that middle one, Is probably what damaged threads and caused me to drill out. I forgot to record the length I used. But I measured water pump and boss in block to get correct length.
Got my new transmission from Midwest and hope to paint an hang this weekend. I cant say enough how about nice those guys are and helpful.
Got my new transmission from Midwest and hope to paint an hang this weekend. I cant say enough how about nice those guys are and helpful.
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- SGT
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Got my new/old exhaust manifold friday so yesterday I cleaned up and removed old rusted heat riser.
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- SGT
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Glass beaded intake and exhaust all ready for heat riser
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Re: 1953 M37
That manifold(s) look great. Did you just bead blast it or did you coat it with a high heat paint?
Also, when I rebuilt my spare exhaust manifold, I made some bushings for the ends of the heat riser pivot pin. They helped to make it function much more smoothly. Maybe my manifold was just worn in the pivot pin holes, though.
Nice job, and thanks for posting all the pics!
Also, when I rebuilt my spare exhaust manifold, I made some bushings for the ends of the heat riser pivot pin. They helped to make it function much more smoothly. Maybe my manifold was just worn in the pivot pin holes, though.
Nice job, and thanks for posting all the pics!

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Re: 1953 M37
Thanks. The second picture is after glass beading and then painted with header paint. I had to replace the heat riser, plate, bushings and shaft as well. I cant possible see this thing working after a few years. All the heat, exhaust gasses, carbon etc. I think it would need either stainless bushings and shaft or something to make it usable after a few years. Does anybody use their heat riser in winter?? Just curious.
Tonight got the manifolds on and all tightened up. I did put together on bench, left intake loose and using a straight edge everything seemed to line up nice. So left intake loose until both tightened up. then tightened up intake to exhaust bolts.
Tonight got the manifolds on and all tightened up. I did put together on bench, left intake loose and using a straight edge everything seemed to line up nice. So left intake loose until both tightened up. then tightened up intake to exhaust bolts.
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- SGT
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Re: 1953 M37
All back together and ready to put back in. Need change the oil and fill with coolant. Poor old thing sitting there with no motor looks sad.. LOL. Still need to paint the cowl and frame. But at least motor/trans/radiator about ready, Still want to make a heat shield for the fuel pump. That small heater hose is just on there to run it until we figure out what we want to do with heat. Some owner along the way put a heater core under the dash in a wooden box. While it was creative I wasn't a fan.. So we have another idea in mind, will see how works out. I know originally on the fender but would like to do something different
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- SGT
- Posts: 248
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- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Moving along some more. Got front frame rails all pressure washed and mostly wire brushed down. Sanded/wire brushed cowl. Painted frame with flat black and cowl with the green the truck will be. Ready to put motor back in now. There is still some more work before we can put front back on. Both rear mounts for the fenders need to be replaced. Cab/wiring and more body work still needs doing. So just painted up to what needs more work. Sort of pre-paint really. the spots that are to get to before putting other parts back on. I like to get the motor back in things so can move on its own power. Which green do you like better??? LOL
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- SGT
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- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Made a new place for the after market fuel filter/housing. Mounted it, I think where the orginal was mounted. At least saw it in some pictures. This came on the truck but was zip tied to the right inner fender. I think looks better and will work better hard plumbed in, instead of hose. Got the the engine/trans/radiator all set back in. Only a couple things left and it will be running again
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Re: 1953 M37
Could you please provide a little more information on the fuel filter up grade? What is it, who makes it, part number, etc? The original fuel filters are getting very hard to find and a modern upgrade that could be made to look like it belongs on the truck would be a nice option (little plastic ones just don't look right to me).
That is the correct location, btw.
Thanks for any information you might provide.
That is the correct location, btw.
Thanks for any information you might provide.

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- SGT
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
Thought I'd post this picture of why not to use teflon tape. If you do need to use it, keep it a couple threads away from the end. This was in the outlet port of the fuel filter housing. I am not sure if there is any kind of wire/brass strainer in the inlet of the carb, as have not had this kind apart before. But if there is nothing its going right to needle and seat. I've done a lot of hydraulic work over my career. [bucket trucks, digger derricks etc] and we try not to use tape, but rather teflon paste. Of course most pipe fittings are gone on modern applications but still have some on.
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- SGT
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- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2014 3:07 am
- Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
Re: 1953 M37
The filter base has no markings but I checked Napa books and found it I believe. i painted the housing green as well as the lines. Its an aluminum housing and I cut the top bolt hole off so it would not stick above the bracket its fastened to. 2 bolts will be enough to hold it on.
Napa part # is 4309. its a 1" x 12Thread for the filter.
Napa Filter part # is 3123
I would imagine a marine fuel filter and housing would be fine as well.
found it on Amazon to, http://www.amazon.com/Wix-24309-Filter- ... B000CSIO0I
Hope that helps
PS: The fuel line ran in the frame just below where I mounted that filter. It was a 5/16 tubing union. So I just took apart there and ran to each side of housing straight above it
Napa part # is 4309. its a 1" x 12Thread for the filter.
Napa Filter part # is 3123
I would imagine a marine fuel filter and housing would be fine as well.
found it on Amazon to, http://www.amazon.com/Wix-24309-Filter- ... B000CSIO0I
Hope that helps
PS: The fuel line ran in the frame just below where I mounted that filter. It was a 5/16 tubing union. So I just took apart there and ran to each side of housing straight above it