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Time for an update... been busy, just havent been posting. Here is how she sits now... the raditor will get painted flat black...
got the front winch wired up. Mounted the solenoids to the original crossmember in the front. Well protected, and, easy to get to if I need to change one. I got the aluminum plate I needed to finish the modifications to the original case, but, have been holding off on bolting them on until I finished the radiator mounts.
I had to modify the clutch handle for the winch as well. Because I am mounting the old case halves over the new winch to make the new one look like the original, I won't be able to get to it, so I made an extension, and passed it through the frame, behind the bumper, so that it is easy to get to.
Speaking of radiator mounts... I got those done as well. Super easy. LOVE that flex-A_lite radiator. The rails on the sides of it make it so easy to mount it. I bent up some "Z" bent brackets that will bolt to the original radiator mount points. Waiting to install it until the crank position sensor (CPS) is finished, which, I also got done, just tonight.
The CPS was a royal bitch. Murphy's law fought me the whole way. The CPS is the main sensor the EFI needs to run, all the injection, timing, and other functions are mainly derived from what it tells the ECU, so, it is very important that it be rigidly mounted, and accurately spaced and located.
I had the original crank pulley OD turned some time ago so that it was a medium press fit to push the Ford escort 36-1 timing wheel onto it. They happened to almost be the same diameter, so, that part was easy. The hard part was the crank sensor mounting bracket. It needs both radial and degree adjustment, so it must be slotted. The diameter of the escort wheel also happens to be almost exactly the same diameter as the harmonic balancer, and, the offset of the factory pulley happens to be almost exactly the same as the depth of the sensor and bracket, so, it made building the bracket a challenge.
Ideally, I would just have a plate behind the bracket, pass bolts through the sensor, through the mounting bracket slot, and tighten them down and be done, BUT, with the harmonic balancer's OD being EXACTLY the same as the ID of the sensor slot, that idea went out the window, as the plate behind the bracket would hit the harmonic balancer.
So, after some brainstorming, I came up with the "C" clip idea... Bolts pass through the sensor, through the clip, through the mounting slot, and back through the clip, and bolt to the back of it, so, it clamps down on the bracket, without needing to come anywhere near the harmonic balancer... Works awesome! I clamped it down tight, and tried to pry it ou of position with a screwdriver and couldnt budge it.
The main bracket is held to the block with two pieces of 3/8" all thread. I welded stop nuts where it hits the block (original bolts held the timing set cover down), and where the bracket threads on so that the bracket doesnt move or loosen up over time.
I also got the intake manifold on, bolted the fuel rails down, and all that jazz. I jsut have to make an Idle air Control valve block. The IAC controls the idle speed, and is what speeds up and slows down your idle when the car is cold and warming up. I could buy a block online, but, $70 for a hunk of aluminum with a few holes in it seems rediculous so, I'll make my own.
Once that's done, I need to do some work to the power steering system (didn't ensue proper clearances on a few things... D'oH!!!), install everything I just mentioned above, get som fluids in it, finish the wiring, and, we can light the beast!!!
Everything is looking fantastic and you should be proud of your talent 
I want to here an audio file or see some video when your fire that monster up 
