Rebuild progress all in one thread

W_A_Watson_II · Post by **W_A_Watson_II** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:28 am

Master Yota wrote:Ain't leverage a PIA?

Or your Friend. Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it ...

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Wed Mar 03, 2010 11:36 am

W_A_Watson_II wrote:
Master Yota wrote:Ain't leverage a PIA?
Or your Friend. Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it ...

Yup - a true double edged sword if I've ever seen one...

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:45 am

Master Yota wrote:Josh - your point on the cable snapping downward is probably the best reason to wind a winch from the bottom.

This is something of a fallacy, I believe. If the break were close to the drum, the part being reeled in would be more likely to snap downward, but the other end would be free to snap back in any direction. If the break were farther away from the drum, both parts of the cable could fly in any direction.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:45 am

Lifer wrote:
Master Yota wrote:Josh - your point on the cable snapping downward is probably the best reason to wind a winch from the bottom.
This is something of a fallacy, I believe. If the break were close to the drum, the part being reeled in would be more likely to snap downward, but the other end would be free to snap back in any direction. If the break were farther away from the drum, both parts of the cable could fly in any direction.

I can appreciate that logic.

All the more reason to use a weight on the line to help control such an event...

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:11 pm

bit more work done. Got the calipers and pads for the rear axle, as well as the hub flange gaskets.

Then, I had an idea...

2' of 2"X2" 6061 billet:

4" of said billet:

4" of billet cut in half:

4" of billet drilled:

drilled again:

sawed again:

threaded:

counterbored the other half:

for this:

to do this:

put it all back together:

and, the reason for the insanity:

Much prettier than those ugly rubber lined stamped steel clamps. Plus, once I set up a mini "assembly line" I cranked out 4 of em in about an hour. I can make them for all different lines... brake lines, electrical lines, fuel lines, hydraulic lines, air lines, etc. Best part is that I can vary the height to add or remove holes of all different sizes for different sizes of lines. I drilled 4 holes in this set as I am going to have 4 6AN fuel lines, 2 feed, 2 return, heading up to the engine.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:15 am

Very nice! I had a similar one formed from UMHW several years ago. They look trick, but are time consuming. Your assembly line process must work exceptionaly well if you can crank one out in 15 mins....

Nice job!

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 9:52 am

the trick is the band saw...it's working while I am!

Best 160 buck Ive spent.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:04 pm

well, 2 1/2 months later...

The Blower hub is DONE!!!

He made one small booboo... The 6 larger holes drilled to take mass out he didn't drill on teh proper centerline, so they came really, really close to breaking out on the inside bore, but, it's OK down on the end that mates to the crank, so, I asked for a nice discount and took it as-is rather than making him make another one.

From this:

To this:

Crank position ring not pressed all the way donw. Will do that once I figure out how I want to mount the position sensor:

Beef baby, Beef:

mounted:

Old timing belt off my escort, way, way too long, will need ot get something shorter:

the ladies and their manifolds:

also finished welding the doghouse up. Need to knock the welds down, put a little mud on it, and it will be ready for paint. That is the last of the major body and rust repair. now it is just stripping and dent bumping.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:55 pm

more work done. Tore the front end down to get the blocks out from under it. PowerwagonTim was nice enough to give me a good deal on 3 pair of matching leaves. Added those to the pack, and with the increased stiffness and arch, I think it will ride at or close to where it was with the blocks:

Gotta get new, shorter U bolts now, as well as some new bushings and pins. The drivers side front pin was pretty tired, and the passengers front bushing was tired, so, I ordered a new set of both to go all the way around.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:19 pm

Lookin' good so far!

Please tell me that those Ubolts were for mock up purposes only and that you never (ever!) drove on them? Good on you for getting rid of the blocks. Leafs are for lifting, blocks are for lego's...

powerwagontim · Post by **powerwagontim** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 3:00 am

I was thinking the same thing with those bolts!
Nasty.
Tim

Lifer · Post by **Lifer** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 4:11 am

Me, too. I figured Josh is way too smart to even consider actually driving with them, though.

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 6:00 am

tacked bolts were just to give the guys at the spring and brake shop something sold to measure.

Master Yota · Post by **Master Yota** » Wed Mar 24, 2010 1:55 pm

Josh wrote:tacked bolts were just to give the guys at the spring and brake shop something sold to measure.

Oh me of little faith...

Josh · Post by **Josh** » Sat Mar 27, 2010 8:07 pm

no pictures, as it wasnt that exciting, but, more progress:

Finished rebuilding the power steering pump, and I put the remote reservoir backing plate on it. I then cleaned and stripped the remote reservoir tank. Got it off a snow plow truck at the junkyard, should have lots of capacity for the tie rod bydraulic assist cylinder I'm running.

Also finished the few little things I had to do for the front winch mount, so, Once I get that sandblasted and painted, I can button that one up, and scratch it off the list.

I then tore down both M90 blowers. Both were in overall good shape, with average wear for the miles on them. Both are in need of new couplers, an oil change, and a repacking of the bearings, but, that is pretty standard for used M90s.