New restoration thread

[Josh]

68 is the correct count. I ordered a few extra when I did mine in case I screwed a couple of them up.

[snowdad]

Just got all the parts of the disassembled bed together for a photo. Will start next sanding down the various components starting with the floor. Tried to post photos but the "Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached" statement popped up. It is in the picture gallery.

[snowdad]

Need some help. The pivot rod of the tailgate is rusted to the tailgate. Any suggestions about how to break it loose? I have thought about soaking it in PB blaster and applying heat (an oxy/acetylene setup is one thing I don't have.). Any other ideas?
Phillip

[m-37Bruce]

Phillip, I think the rod/pipe might actually be welded in the folded box of the tailgate?

[snowdad]

So it is supposed to pivot in the brackets that mount it to the rear of the bed? Looks like this is where my major rust issue is going to be. It is all rusted solid except for the center support. Thanks for this tidbit.
Phillip

[m-37Bruce]

Take either end off first, then w/a helping hand, remove the middle tube hinge/cover. Use lots of Kroil or some type of penetrate oil, start with a small hammer blows, before trying to crank the bolts out, all else fails, go to the BFH, and maybe some heat. I've taken two beds apart, some parts were easy, nither one was the same, I ground about 25 bed screws off.

[snowdad]

Thanks to Brett I am now able to post pics to my thread. Here is a picture of the end of my tailgate mounting bracket with a view that shows where it is rusted in place. This is on both ends. I take it that the rod that runs the length of the tailgate is the innermost part looking into the bracket. I assume that I need to break it loose here on both ends.

[outsider]

Yep, That's right. Inner tube stays with the tail gate the outer tube with the mount welded to it that the bolts go through comes off. Heat the inner tube til it starts to turn orange then and let it cool. That will crystalize the rust, then tap the outer bracket lightly all around and that should break up the rust without to much force to damage anything.

Since you are going so far as to strip the bed all the way down, I would skip the sanding of the parts and send them to the sand blaster followed by priming with a good quality epoxy primer.

Steve

[snowdad]

Steve,
Thanks for the confirmation on the tailgate. As far as the sandblaster, that and the epoxy is just outside my price range at present. I know it is the best. Just can't afford it right now. I do plan on using a zinc-based primer though.
Phillip

[Rick C]

How were the L brackets that sat inside the rear crossmember/bed side? They usually rust out pretty bad.......
Rick

[snowdad]

A little pitted, but the capture nuts and structure itself were sound. Will really coat it good before reinstalling. Will post pics tomorrow. Only rust spots on the bed were the bed floor near the passenger wheel well
and the floor of the toolbox
Phillip

[snowdad]

Some of the items I used to strip old paint and rust from the sheet metal

The front panel prepped with its first coat of primer. For this piece I used Rust-oleum Rusty Metal Primer for heavily rusted metal. Not the best thing out there, but for the price, I have had excellent results on pitted metal in the past. I used one whole can (16 oz) for the first coat. It was heavily pitted on the inside surface and the bottom mounting flange. These got a heavy coating.

[m-37Bruce]

That front bed panel is going to turn out nice!

[snowdad]

It has a couple of small dents in it and I am tempted to leave them in as a "Character Mark". I may use some fiberglass to fill in the pits.
Phillip

[T. Highway]

It has a couple of small dents in it and I am tempted to leave them in as a "Character Mark". I may use some fiberglass to fill in the pits.
Phillip

Hi Phillip,

You may want to use a light weight "Bondo" type of filler rather than the fiberglass. It's much easier to work with and a faster cure time.

Bert