MSeriesRebuild wrote:The correct splined bolts make them much easier to handle as far as nut installation and removal. It has nothing whatever to do with keeping a bolt from shearing off.
Nylock nuts are simply a cheap excuse for self locking, must have protruding threads, and you can only use them once and toss them. There are 2 crush types that work great and can be reused in most cases. The cone style must have at least a couple of threads protruding in order to work. The center crush type actually lock at the center point of the nut allowing for flush mounting . The fact that no threads protrude stops the rust / paint issues in protruding threads that can can be very frustrating at removal time.
Ok, thanks Charles.
Although the Nylocs are throw away, I doubt I will need to change them any time soon. And they only cost pennies anyway.
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
If you intend to use nylocks, I would also use red lock-tite on the threads, and tighten gut busting tight, especially on the jack shaft. It will work loose quicker than the others. Drive shafts give nuts a hard work out, trusting nylocks alone is not a smart move.
MSeriesRebuild wrote:If you intend to use nylocks, I would also use red lock-tite on the threads, and tighten gut busting tight, especially on the jack shaft. It will work loose quicker than the others. Drive shafts give nuts a hard work out, trusting nylocks alone is not a smart move.
Good idea using lock-tite on the threads. I did tighten them with a torque wrench however!
I will keep my eye on them.
Stu
1952 Dodge M37 with 1952 M101 Trailer
MVT UK
SMVG Scotland
My truck had standard nuts. I looked at the parts manual and I understand it to say the same. Am I missing something or is it just recommended to use locking nuts?
Gerry wrote:My truck had standard nuts. I looked at the parts manual and I understand it to say the same. Am I missing something or is it just recommended to use locking nuts?
Lots of things in the manuals can be misleading as better ways to do things exist today. If you have seen the damage a shaft that gets loose on 1 end does to itself and anything within reach; you won't think twice about the book. You'll be asking for the best self locking nuts out there.
MSeriesRebuild wrote:The correct splined bolts make them much easier to handle as far as nut installation and removal. It has nothing whatever to do with keeping a bolt from shearing off.
Nylock nuts are simply a cheap excuse for self locking, must have protruding threads, and you can only use them once and toss them. There are 2 crush types that work great and can be reused in most cases. The cone style must have at least a couple of threads protruding in order to work. The center crush type actually lock at the center point of the nut allowing for flush mounting . The fact that no threads protrude stops the rust / paint issues in protruding threads that can can be very frustrating at removal time.
Hi Charles,
Can confirm if those nuts are 7/16-20NF?
MSeriesRebuild wrote:The correct splined bolts make them much easier to handle as far as nut installation and removal. It has nothing whatever to do with keeping a bolt from shearing off.
Nylock nuts are simply a cheap excuse for self locking, must have protruding threads, and you can only use them once and toss them. There are 2 crush types that work great and can be reused in most cases. The cone style must have at least a couple of threads protruding in order to work. The center crush type actually lock at the center point of the nut allowing for flush mounting . The fact that no threads protrude stops the rust / paint issues in protruding threads that can can be very frustrating at removal time.
Hi Charles,
Can confirm if those nuts are 7/16-20NF?
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