Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
Moderators: Cal_Gary, T. Highway, Monkey Man, robi
Cuz,
Yes maybe as early as this weekend. Any angle you would be interested in? I had it running for short periods of time about November. Luckily the fuel tank was empty when parked. Have a short in it somewhere as I get a spark when I hook the last battery cable up and that is with everything turned off. Insulation is falling off the cables so hope it is there. Have to replace the water pump and radiator and hope to get it moved inside this weekend too. May have a little problem entering them in the photo page, but wife's future son-in-law is a big help doing such.
Phillip
Yes maybe as early as this weekend. Any angle you would be interested in? I had it running for short periods of time about November. Luckily the fuel tank was empty when parked. Have a short in it somewhere as I get a spark when I hook the last battery cable up and that is with everything turned off. Insulation is falling off the cables so hope it is there. Have to replace the water pump and radiator and hope to get it moved inside this weekend too. May have a little problem entering them in the photo page, but wife's future son-in-law is a big help doing such.
Phillip
A spark at the battery + terminal when you disconnect the cable is common with voltage regulators that have a radio noise filter (capacitor) in them. A spark as you connect the cable is not ok. That indicates a draw someplace.
The usual current draw culprit with the switch off is the starter kick pedal switch. The contacts often burn, carbon track and corrode causing the current drain with the cable connected to the battery. Disconnect the battery ground strap that goes to the frame from the battery. connect a test lamp between the battery negative terminal and the end of the disconnected cable. If the lamp glows you have a current leak someplace. Now disconnect the battery cable at the starter along with the #4 wire from the regulator and fasten the two wires together and tape them up. Connect your test lamp to the same points as before. If it glows your starter switch is good. If it doesn't glow the starter switch is bad. It can be removed, cleaned and it's internal coated with dielectric grease and it should work ok.
If the lamp still glowed when the starter wires were disconnected then leave them that way and disconnect one circuit at a time until the lamp goes out. Then you will have found the culprit.
The usual current draw culprit with the switch off is the starter kick pedal switch. The contacts often burn, carbon track and corrode causing the current drain with the cable connected to the battery. Disconnect the battery ground strap that goes to the frame from the battery. connect a test lamp between the battery negative terminal and the end of the disconnected cable. If the lamp glows you have a current leak someplace. Now disconnect the battery cable at the starter along with the #4 wire from the regulator and fasten the two wires together and tape them up. Connect your test lamp to the same points as before. If it glows your starter switch is good. If it doesn't glow the starter switch is bad. It can be removed, cleaned and it's internal coated with dielectric grease and it should work ok.
If the lamp still glowed when the starter wires were disconnected then leave them that way and disconnect one circuit at a time until the lamp goes out. Then you will have found the culprit.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
Cuz,
Great tips. I still believe the positive cable may be the culprit, but I will follow your procedure for running it down. The cable is bare is several spots. Between cold weather and trying to get my WC-51 going for 2009 Veteran's Parade I just haven't had time. I will post what I find. Thanks for your help.
Phillip
Great tips. I still believe the positive cable may be the culprit, but I will follow your procedure for running it down. The cable is bare is several spots. Between cold weather and trying to get my WC-51 going for 2009 Veteran's Parade I just haven't had time. I will post what I find. Thanks for your help.
Phillip
Data plate pics now posted
Wes,
I have posted some pics of the plates and truck (I think). See what you think. Just noticed one is actually labeled M37B1. Any ideas? Thanks
Phillip
I have posted some pics of the plates and truck (I think). See what you think. Just noticed one is actually labeled M37B1. Any ideas? Thanks
Phillip
John Bizal at Midwest Military (midwestmil.com) can supply you with many, if not all of the parts to convert an M37 to an M42.snowdad wrote:Collin,
Thanks very much! What kind of kit was used and what can I look for on the vehicle? This is much appreciated. Now to figure out how to restore it!
Phillip
You can trust your mother, but you can't trust your ground.
Hello Phillip,
The non-standard engraving, the lack of similar deterioration between each plate and the plates vs the dash, and the riveting of the plates leads me to suspect when they were installed and by whom. Before saying anymore we should first determine what the frame serial number is.
The non-standard engraving, the lack of similar deterioration between each plate and the plates vs the dash, and the riveting of the plates leads me to suspect when they were installed and by whom. Before saying anymore we should first determine what the frame serial number is.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
Vin # Should Be
Just ahead of the steering box, on the frame itself, about 3/4" tall numbers, should start w/800XXXXX, unless it's a B-1, if I not mistaken?
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
Bruce,
Sorry to take so long. Had a lot going on lately. Found the frame number and it was identical to the one on the data plate.
Sorry to take so long. Had a lot going on lately. Found the frame number and it was identical to the one on the data plate.
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
I'm impressed you remembered, I forgot all about it?
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
Bruce,
Actually, I did. I have had a terrible time with my hay crop this year-rain, humidity, heat, rain again, limited help, rain again, etc. I was going through all posts and downloading articles that will help me in my restoration in case the site has to go down again and ran up on this one. In addition, all of the holes are located in the body indicating a radio equipped command truck.
Phillip
Actually, I did. I have had a terrible time with my hay crop this year-rain, humidity, heat, rain again, limited help, rain again, etc. I was going through all posts and downloading articles that will help me in my restoration in case the site has to go down again and ran up on this one. In addition, all of the holes are located in the body indicating a radio equipped command truck.
Phillip
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
So some of it's good news. Are you going to go w/ the Radio/Command Truck?
The guys who cut our hay always wait till it supposed to rain for an extended period. They do two cuttings a season and it happens almost every time?
The guys who cut our hay always wait till it supposed to rain for an extended period. They do two cuttings a season and it happens almost every time?
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
Really wanting to go the M42 route if at all possible. Would also like to go with a radio outfit, but not to realistic there. You said you thought you might have an idea about when and by whom did the data plate if you knew the frame number. Does this help any? Thanks. Temps have been running in the mid to upper 90s with humidity in the 85-90% range. 2 more fields to bale and haul in then finished with spring cutting. Just saw where a cold front is coming in this week with cooler dryer air. FIGURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
I think that was Wes; aka, cuz, it sounded like he might have some insight? Waether has been brutal all over, I think?snowdad wrote: You said you thought you might have an idea about when and by whom did the data plate if you knew the frame number. Does this help any? Thanks.
Bruce,
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
1953 M-37 w/ow
Retired Again
Keep Em Rollin'
VMVA
Re: Data Plate Number Interpretation needed.
Hello Phillip,
My comments above were meant to point out that the data plate you have appears to have been added at a later date and may not be correct for your truck. If the frame number matches the number on the plate then the plate is most likely correct for your truck but we cannot determine who installed that plate and when. It may be a replacement plate installed by the military or it may be a plate installed by a civilian owner who just stamped the frame number on it.Hello Phillip,
The non-standard engraving, the lack of similar deterioration between each plate and the plates vs the dash, and the riveting of the plates leads me to suspect when they were installed and by whom. Before saying anymore we should first determine what the frame serial number is.
Wes K
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.
wsknettl@centurytel.net
54 M37, 66 M101, 45MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ5, 46 T3-C
MVPA 22099
Disclaimer: Any data posted is for general info only and may not be M37 specific or meet with the approval of some esteemed gurus.